K-line Scale Hudson with TMCC question

The coupler on the tender powered or dose it have the metal disc?

And if mechanical, sometimes you also need to stretch or replace the plunger spring.  G

 

Take a look here

 

https://ogrforum.com/t...26#23392856552487826

 

Bill

Bill, that's what I do as well.  After reading your post on cleaning up the internal surfaces, I've been able to make electrocouplers work butter-smooth and couple with hardly any force. 

Thanks guys it's an electrocoupler so I'll follow your suggestions and see where it goes.

Mike

Okay guys, I took off the tender shell and removed the motherboard and checked for signs of burning, nothing. I then unplugged the coupler from the board and ran the engine and tender with and without freight and the coupler knuckle stayed closed. So what's my next step?

Thanks again.

Mike

Add the capacitor value John had in his post.  I think there was an old Digi Dynamic post about twisting wires to also reduce any wiring coupling effect.  G

Okay John thanks. This is all Greek to me but I think I understand what to do.

Any help getting it right is appreciated.

Mike

And everyone else.

Mike

That's all there is to it.

 

Thanks John I'll let you know how it goes.

Mike

John

Quick question, I stopped at my local Radio Shack, they have non-polarized 1uf 50v capacitors but the legs come out each end not out the same end like the one shown in the link you have me. Are they the same?

Mike

That should be electrically the same and work fine - it's just an axial lead part vs the radial leaded part in John's link. If you end up with extra exposed wire lead, just put a scrap piece of wire insulation or heat shrink tubing over it to keep it from shorting to anything.

 

Jim   

Thanks guys.

You do want to be careful it may cause issues when tender shell put back on, so as Jim says ensure you heat shrink the exposed leads.  G

That's as good as it gets.

 

Guys can I shorten the legs of the capacitor to lessen the exposure so it sits closer to the board?

Mike

Sure, you can make them any length that works.

It definitely doesn't open when unplugged?  Capacitor on the correct pins?  Make sure the wire leads don't have the insulation nicked so it is touching chassis causing the coupler to fire.   G

I'd do more verification with it unplugged to make sure it doesn't open, perhaps a longer operating session.  Before more extreme measures, it's nice to recheck our assumptions.

 

As George says, a very close inspection of the wiring and the motherboard is next, probably followed by swapping out the boards as a test.

 

I took the motherboard out again and this time I took both white plastic post off the board too and right under the edge if one of the posts was a break in the metallic circuit. I presume this is the problem. I didn't see it at first but when I ran my finger gently over the circuit I felt the edges.

I presume this means a new motherboard?

Mike

Not at all, first off it would be useful to see what you're seeing.  It's pretty easy to repair a break in the circuit board, if one exists.  However, I'd want to see it to see if there is actually an issue there.

 

I suspect it would be pretty easy to repair even if there is a break.  If you can't fix it, you can send it to me and I'll repair it.

 

You just bridge it with a small jumper wire.  G

Mike,

 

  Whats the part number on your MB. Can you take a pic of the trace.

 

Bill

Thanks guys. I tried to photograph it but all I have is my iPhone camera and it wasn't very clear. I guess I can try to attach a small jumper wire.

Mike

Took some photos. On the MB the Lionel part number 691-PCB1-09F. I took photos of the other components too.

 

Thanks, Mike

Thanks Bill

Bill

Am I counting the pins left to right?

Mike

yes

Gentlemen we have solved the problem. The capacitor is on place as is a jumper wire between the right coupler plug pin and the second pin of the other plug. So far it's working. I think it might be a good idea for me to pick up a spare motherboard. What do you think?

Also, do you recommend installing a capacitor on my other K-line TMCC engines?

Thanks again.

Mike

Glad that worked out.  As far as the motherboard, the jumper is as good as a trace, unless you have a problem, it'll probably last as long as any other board.

 

My guess is you had a short in the coupler wire at some point and it cooked the trace.

 

I only put the caps on when I have a problem.  Don't fix what ain't broke!

 

Thanks John

I guess it raised the question should I check the coupler for a potential problem. Anyway, thanks for the help.

Mike

99% of the time, it's a wire that gets damaged between the coupler and the board.

 

Interesting, so I assume you couldn't fire the coupler originally with TMCC?  MB do get damaged occasionally.  G

Actually the coupler fired every time with the Cab1.

Mike

It must have been working on that trace until it failed.

 

That's about where the trace was damaged.

Mike