KF Dual Pack, CB350 Transformer: Will it run my AC lionel 027 Engines on my DC 027 track?

Hmmm...I tired to run some American Flyer locos with a number of various DC packs. None had enough "balls" to run them for very long before they would over-load and shut down. And I'm talking nice, higher-end packs, like the MRC "ControlMaster V" or my very nice Heathkit unit, not cheap train set packs.

Interestingly enough, both of the afore mentioned packs will power my heavy Varney/All Nation Ten Wheeler just fine. They also do well with any and all of my 2 rail diesels, Weaver(s) included. Of course, these are all DC- motored units; the AF locos have field-wound motors (why these are referred to as "universal" type motors is another thing). Perhaps someone here with 'way more knowledge of current draw, etc., can explain why this is...and help you with your situation.

Mark in Oregon

While there are those who operate 3 rail O gauge on DC, just be aware that they are going against over a century of grain which comes with its adventures. Sure, it isn't impossible, but not what I would do or recommend, especially for greatest compatability. Additionally, generally our O gauge trains require much more oomph than the common DC supplies (typically for HO) can provide.

It's too small for 2 post war motors imo. Maybe one train (if it can feed all the power available to just one throttle. It could have multiple small transformers inside and have 1/2 that or less at each throttle.(? not enough)

It's basically lighter than a 1033. Maximum voltage of 12v is a drawback too (rectified 1033 is about 13.5-14v and the increase in that voltage range is very usful on PW locos. The big units are putting out 18-20v and 25v on pre-war. You might not need all that, but 12v may be on the light side so it better have the amps to hold that 12v steady and not boil the power supply (80% max of that 3.5a is how hard you might push it continuously and safely.... you need a multi-meter or voltage meter to play with Manny. You could answer questions more exactly yourself with just a little help. )

You are up and running now?

Then you should be able to judge yourself if 12v is enough voltage for your uses.

  Didn't you find a amp gauge? A breaker or fuse get used? These all might tell what is or isn't "enough" of either Volts or Amps.

Measure your train's amp uses. Especially heavy loaded with fast start ups will likely be your peak draws, but a few will draw hard at speed too. Once you know these numbers, the answers are easy and will be given with confidence.

I don't think you've ever mentioned the size other than little w/0-27. Some folks consider 3x4 little, some think that 6x15 is little.  Amps needed are a use vs distance vs wire Gauge factor;   You repeatedly ask us to answer blindly.

  Unless you're purposely trying to keep a low profile on what's happening for an article or something, I gotta say, as a rule you don't include enough of info to fly by easily within your posts and don't always answer important questions asked by folks trying to help (not just mine)  I've asked or hinted about a meter alone three or four times before I think, but no answer on that either.  Folks don't catch every post and don't always recall every detail of your layout, especially when we never see any of it. If this build was in one thread it would've been more cohesive, but scattered, the general facts info.of what you have will need constant repetition.

Just use a KW or ZW with rectifiers.

Thanks for this great information.

Resounding consensus is that the DC dual pack won't work, so therefore I won't buy it.  Once again, you guys saved me from a headache!

Adriatic.  Thanks for all of your responses.  You have an extraordinarily deep knowledge of the mechanics and electronics of almost everything in the field of model trains.

My approach is different though.  I built a huge HO set and ran it for years without using a Volt meter or anything else,.   I had 12 wired switches and two throttles, using two different power packs.  I also had 10 blocked track sections with separate power locks and switches.    I was  12 years old, with zero adult input or supervision.

Dealing with tiny wires, testing circuits for DC and AC currents, involving myself in the intricacies of electrical flow are not why I am bootstrapping myself back into model trains, on the O27 Scale.   My layout, setup, power, and system will be mainstream, dumb and totally  boring to true railroaders such as yourself.  I am getting back into it for the pure joy of seeing trains race around the tracks and allowing my grandchildren to run the throttle and throw the hand switches.  I am doing all of this on the cheap, with used stuff, piece by piece.  And hopefully, I will add three young boys to the fans of this great hobby.

If I buy something at it doesn't work, it is going in the trash. If it does work, then fine, I'll run it.   I am hopeful that most of my questions on the board are extremely elementary.  If out of ignorance I don't supply enough information, then that's OK, just say so.

Right now, my track layout is snapped together sitting on my basement floor with a rectified DC power supply and a cheap Scout engine running on it.  When I get everything powered and running smoothly on the floor, then I'll build the table and screw the track down.   Yes, I know that is totally backwards from what should be done, but that is how you go from having a zero trainset to a fully up and running O27 layout in just four weeks.  And of course, I could not have achieved all of this without the fine advice I have received from you and everyone else on the boards.

Thanks again to all.

Mannyrock