Laser Cutter

George, I still do it old school with a fresh blade and a straight edge, so I can't help you out there...I can say though that you will need to be able to draw up your ideas in some sort of Cad type of program in order to send that to the cutter you get...it's not so simple as buy a cutter and it'll do what you want...oddly enough exacto blades go the same way- I have to guide it.

g3

go out to google and enter laser cutters, they are quite expensive starting at $2,000 and go way up based on your need.  Then you will need to create a technical drawing that will be programmed into the laser. So unless you are going to go commercial  i'd advise against. If you feel you can create

My advice, go get a steel ruler and an Exacto knife.

Would like to see how your project turns out, post some photo's when done

Steve

CAD NOT REQUIRED!  That is a huge misconception!  I use PowerPoint for lots of my designs cut on my laser.  Lasers cut using a focused beam of light to cut / engrave the material.  In my case anything the cutter sees as a vector (drawn lines) it cuts, anything it sees as a picture (Photoshop etc.) it engraves.  Having said that both types of images can be combined into a single item to be cut / engraved by the laser.  The software for the laser has various settings to allow you to adjust what is being cut or engraved for a finished product.  Materials used are varied, I use mostly basswood, laser board, and some other materials.  CAD is not required. Google laser cutters as was suggested above and look at some of the tutorials, you will quickly get the idea.   Russ

I work for a company that makes high dollar laser cutters (many cost more than my econo car) and the software of choice is Corel Draw, not CAD.  If my layout gets to that point and I'm still here, I'll be using lunch time on a laser for sure.

OK! I really appreciate the feedback I received. I've looked on line and found several cutters in the 2 to 3K range. At this point in time, it's too rich for me, so I believe I'll use Bob's method...a good straight edge and sharp blade. Using a laser cutter would be fun as I'm very familiar with all of the software programs mentioned. Maybe in the future. Right now there's lots of track to lay yet.

Again thanks Bob, Steve, Russ and Sinclair.

George (G3)

"Old school" works just fine...and is alot cheaper too. Now, when it comes time to cut out window openings, take a pin vise and drill evenly spaced "inside" of the drawn lines for them, cut from hole to hole, pop it out and trim to final size...easy! 

You can do this...if it gets fuzzy, just post and we'll help!

Another method for the windows is the "snap & glue" method. Here you slice and dice the wall up cutting the window openings out in straight line. You discard the "windows" and glue the rest back together with solvent cement. Some folks use thin styrene as a backing sheet. Glue the wall pieces to in then knock out the window openings again. I didn't choose this method when building my station project, but wish I had since it makes a much stronger assembly. It gives you dead square window opening corners without having to do a lot of hand finishing.

Here's all the pieces scored and broken apart. Place X's on the pieces representing the window areas so you don't accidentally discard parts of the wall. This station is a complex assortment of horizontally and vertically oriented siding panels which made this step more challenging.

This picture shows the vertical and horizontal patterns. The batten boards cover up any glue joints when putting the wall back together, but with judicious use of solvent and good alignment the joints are almost invisible.

I've been working on and off on this project for over 6 years, but am really getting near the end. You can follow it on my other thread, "Continuing Saga of the P&PRR"

Trainman, that house looks nice! Interesting technique too on the cut apart and reassemble method...I'm used to the corner cleanup though- files/sanding sticks and alittle tweeking with a fresh blade works for me, but I may have to try that sometime. The only problem{if any-might just be me} would be a textured surface and glue seems{bricks/tiles/slats or siding} upon reattaching. I'm slowly putzing with a turntable right now{and for the last month} and will eventually need a roundhouse.

My Laser uses CorelDraw only as far as I can read in the manual. Mine is now ten years old.....the mechanics are still rock solid but the laser is going. And while looking at a recharge I was shocked that it will be about half of what I paid for the whole machine!!!

Care to tell us who you work for??? My USA made machine has been perfect!

A good old school method of cutting plastic......less than $10.....

I have arthritis in my hands....and this really helps keep things true and straight.

Just score the plastic and snap.....kinda like glass if you have ever cut glass.

A LOT less than a laser ....and what I use unless I need many parts the exact same.