John,
Are the upper and lower deck connected? Can you run trains between them?
Actually I planned on connecting the two with a Helix, however I am liking the idea of keeping them independent right now.
I have the same problem missing great threads, but I have been off line a lot this year because my new grandson arrived, then there was fishing, and of course family and visiting friends. But this is a fantastic layout. Well planned, great scenic elements and big to run neat trains. I am impressed by all the great work and creativity on the forum, and this is another great story. Inspiring for me who struggles but still has fun trying.
Originally Posted by Mark Boyce:
I must have had my head in the sand last fall when you posted most of this. yes, I have seen some of these photos on other topics, but never saw the whole thing! Wow John, you are building quite a nice layout! Lots of room to get lots of trains running, and the scenery is great! I am so glad you just posted this last photo!
Thanks again for the kind words...
Something happened amazingly that was just short of a miracle.
My 7 year old daughter came down to help me sand some pedestal parts for the "Highline"... Thanks Emily!
Also measure some track for any ready cut sections I could use...
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John,
Fantastic multi level layout, I love it!
PCRR/Dave
Wow! Nicely done!
Great photo of your daughter.
She is a great helper
So now that I have the Highline at 90% roughed in... I have to focus on dropping feeder wires... and getting things wired up. 
I have 3 pairs of 14 gauge wire going around the layout. One for the highline, two for the lowline staging, and pair three for accessories.
Does anyone have some advice to speed things up to solder in all those drops and then make connections to the "main feed" wires?
Beer and manpower has already been suggested...but rejected
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Do what Charlie is doing. Solder a #14 wire to the track at least every 5 joints. Use a posi-tap to connect to the buss wire.
Dan
I had no luck finding them locally and ordered mine direct. Click Here
Charlie,
Hmm these may not work. I already routed the 14 gauge wires through the table supports. looks like the bases need to be on there first then the wire fed through each support?
You can also use suitcase connectors.
REadily available, affordable, don't take up much space, and easy to modify.
Rod
J;
I am not familiar with the bottom ones at all.
But the upper style I have used extensivley with good results.
You have to make sure the wire gauges are close, or at least within the range recommended for the particular connector.
If you have 14 AWG main feeders, and 16 AWG track drops, you should be good.
Rod
John, Not sure I follow you. Nothing needs to be placed on the wire in advance to use a posi-tap.
How do you get the base post on? Is it a two piece base?
Looking great!
-Greg
-Greg
Originally Posted by J Daddy:
How do you get the base post on? Is it a two piece base?
They unscrew at both ends. The base of the tap has a groove that you place over the buss wire. Very easy hookup.
""Does anyone have some advice to speed things up to solder in all those drops and then make connections to the "main feed" wires?
Beer and manpower has already been suggested...but rejected""
Best advice I can give is don't be in a hurry. Take your time ..make sure things are just as you want them.. experiment with different types of connectors.. find the best way for you and then proceed with care.. when you are done and it is perfect you'll be glad you took the extra time..
it's a hobby after all.. enjoy it....
one more thing... the more time you take is more time spent with the cutest helper I've ever seen!!
John, here's a Posi-Tap with both ends apart.
The bus wire goes into the cap with the groove. The main body screws onto that and connects to the bus.
Then run the feeders through the top cap and into the main body and screw it tight. You only need to strip about ¼".
Apologies for the blurry picture.
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Thanks guys I understand now ... just what I am looking for. I was soldering this joint and its no fun soldering wires upside down and if you have over 100 to do ...
What a great product. I will have to get a bag and try a few out.
J,
anything that eliminates soldering under the layout is worth it IMO. 
I am am sure you probadly know this, but bus wiring is not generally recommended for DCS. So called star (or home run) wiring is preferred.
You are likely just fine as long as you are not planning to run DCS.
Just thought I would mention it.
Rod
Thanks Rod. right now its just TMCC and Legacy. Yeah I was told that I should just go with it and then buy DCS and see where you may need to alter your wiring later...
Anyways I know it will be additional wiring...
I have not jump to the "Darkside" yet, but I sure am tempted... MTH makes some nice stuff...
DCS works fine with bus wiring. Running the bus from the TIU, I have about 150' of wire for each loop around the perimeter of the train room with no signal problems.
*Insulate the center rail about every 10th track joint and add one feeder between them. (This shortens the distance the signal needs to travel for a stronger signal)
*Attach the feeders to the bus with the Posi-Taps.
*Do not connect the ends of the bus, and add an 18W light bulb on the end. But I believe with the latest TIU version you do not need the bulbs as the signal strength has been improved.
If you are already wired up before getting DCS, once you get it just test it with your current wiring, it may be fine. If you have problems, insulate the center rail between each feeder.
I hate soldering. As an electronics technician and now telecom engineer, my experience is only solder unless there is no other way. However, if one gets good at it, then it can be very quick and foolproof. I never got good at it.
