Legacy ATSF 442 Atlantic 6-11117 Smoke fan unit and coal load

What are you repairing? This one is not for the faint of heart. There's 10 lbs of electronics in a 5 lb bag.

I use diluted white Elmer s glue to repair any loose coal.

I have the prr version and it's not too bad actually. The whistle steam smoke unit uses some flexible tubing to route the smoke to the whistle.

Listen to What John (Jdaddy) said above, I wouldn't open this engine. A load of electronics stuffed in as tight as can be. 

Alex 

Wow, four screws and apart.. Can't even beleive it.  I use to own a tv repair business..and currently repair things a bit more complex..

ok, so..some fast help..AC regegualror is strictly for the element...There is a 5 v region the board for the fan motor. I have spare motors from diesel legacy units..

are they all the same? I know the mounting holes might be different. Does anyone have a break down for 630-1122-200 smoke unit. I can't find this on the Lionel site.

Did, anyone repair a coal load that has chunks missing out of it..a good type of coal to match the original?

Actually, I have this engine... sound is amazing. However my smoke unit will come on and then as it goes a lap around the layout the smoke fades to a light wisp. A colleague of mine said there were issues with the smoke regulator boards in these?

I remember trying to peel the boiler off and when I got it off around the electronics, the boiler almost shot up in the air!

The smoked worked for a few minutes when I hit Aux 0 then Aux 6 as it should than just faded out.  I was going to send to Lionel for repair but alas they do not repair these anymore. 

I wish they would send a notice out to us "wee" folk when there is a problem on these engines right of the box...

Would save us allot of frustration.

Really, had this thing apart in 3 minutes...this has no whistle smoke.....

I will check it out later. I assume it is a fan motor issue out of the box. The unit looks as though it went around the track once. I would like to order some spare parts...if there was a AC regulator issue...maybe, some of the everyday repair guys can chime in?

Marty might know, he has probably worked on these. Boy if you find a way to test please share. Both my fan and my heater element will not stay on.

J Daddy posted:

Marty might know, he has probably worked on these. Boy if you find a way to test please share. Both my fan and my heater element will not stay on.

It sounds like these has issues with the gaskets hitting the fan motors....So, I wonder if Lionel,eventually made a new gasket...as the you'll swell with the introduction of smoke fluid....so, call Lionel tommorrow...for parts

My Milwaukee S-3 had this issue, trimmed the gaskets back and no issues.  Maybe I should pop the lid and verify.

The ATSF 11117 was one of the first "entry level" Legacy locos from circa 2007.  The chassis and most of the electronics are very different from the four redesigned Atlantics that were released a few years ago (11224 PRR, 11225 B&O, etc.)  I don't doubt that it's much easier to work on.

One mechanically significant part of the redesign, is that on the newer models, the bottom of the chassis can be removed, and the wheels and axles are easy to remove and replace.  The gear ratio is much lower on the newer models too, so I would expect they perform better at slow speeds.  Probably not many mechanical or electronic parts exchange between the two versions.

I agree with the others that the best way to fix, or improve the look of the coal load, is by gluing more loose coal on top with diluted white glue.

Ted Sowirka posted:

The ATSF 11117 was one of the first "entry level" Legacy locos from circa 2007.  The chassis and most of the electronics are very different from the four redesigned Atlantics that were released a few years ago (11224 PRR, 11225 B&O, etc.)  I don't doubt that it's much easier to work on.

One mechanically significant part of the redesign, is that on the newer models, the bottom of the chassis can be removed, and the wheels and axles are easy to remove and replace.  The gear ratio is much lower on the newer models too, so I would expect they perform better at slow speeds.  Probably not many mechanical or electronic parts exchange between the two versions.

I agree with the others that the best way to fix, or improve the look of the coal load, is by gluing more loose coal on top with diluted white glue.

Adding more coal is what I'm looking to do....Anyone know a good match........something pre-made size wise

J Daddy posted:

My Milwaukee S-3 had this issue, trimmed the gaskets back and no issues.  Maybe I should pop the lid and verify.

Burnt sleeve on resistor - removed the sleeve started to smoke. I need batting and a new resistor...impossible to get the char off.

I have the same loco, from day one its smoke output hasn't been all that great. Never attempted to open it up.

SHAWN,
Did you repair T.V's. which used the famous '5U4G' vacuum tube?
If, so, then maybe there's room in these new locomotive to put one, in.
RALPH 

RJL posted:

SHAWN,
Did you repair T.V's. which used the famous '5U4G' vacuum tube?
If, so, then maybe there's room in these new locomotive to put one, in.
RALPH 

Nope! A little before my time! 

So , I took the unit apart and called Lionel...well, so much for that. Maybe, Marty would know if there is gaskets on these units.. The only thing that I saw when taking it apart was the big rubber gasket between ...the smoke fluid housing and the fan housing...

I've worked on a couple of these, including mine.  They are one of the more difficult locomotives to work on, they really did pack the stuff in there, and the wire routing is not optimal.  It frequently takes several tries to get one back together. and I've had a pinched wire one time, in spite of my best efforts not to.

Send it to a pro, just not me!

Shawn- The Fan on mine is not touching the gasket. And the heater element just decides to go off on its own... When I shut the power off , then turn power back on and Aux 0, then hit Aux 6 the smoke will return for about 3 minutes, then it tapers off again.

Yes Lionel is not helpful unless you talk to one of the techs directly.

My wiring and electronic skills are non existent. I have been know to single-handedly kill boards by looking at them! Hmmm... now I think  the red one of these  plugs into the R2 board....

Well, back together with smoke working great. Anyone with a good glue to reattach the wheel brake. I broke one...putting the unit back together.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

I've worked on a couple of these, including mine.  They are one of the more difficult locomotives to work on, they really did pack the stuff in there, and the wire routing is not optimal.  It frequently takes several tries to get one back together. and I've had a pinched wire one time, in spite of my best efforts not to.

Send it to a pro, just not me!

John,

You stated that you had this unit. Is it constant smoke or should it puff when chuffing?

Shawn - To answer your question above, the loco smokes only when chuffing.  I've had one since they came out, and its always been like this.

Yep, it chuffs if it's working right.

It doesn't have idle smoke, which is one shortcoming.

Well, posted before text insert. Thanks for all the help! John, no pinched wires..Although did break off the rear wheel brake. What a crappy spot they put this article in...the rear pilot hits into the rear brakes when turning. Going to be interesting to see if JB weld holds such a small piece.

Shawn - what was the root cause?

The one without whistle smoke is not nearly as packed at the PRR Lindbergh Atlantic with whistle smoke, so they're easier to work on.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

The one without whistle smoke is not nearly as packed at the PRR Lindbergh Atlantic with whistle smoke, so they're easier to work on.

Yes, at least the smoke unit part on this model is not bad. I'm replacing the frame next. Wish me luck..

J Daddy posted:

Shawn - what was the root cause?

Replaced the resistor and wadding. Left off the resistor sleeve. Still didn't work that good. Replaced fan motor ...that when she really started smoking.

I also was getting a constant blinking can light on this unit...I thought related to smoke unit issues. But, realize it was a constant blink...need the old engine number , aux1 reset command. Is there a direction common and form cab 2 without changing to engine type tmcc?

Frame replacement?  That will be a lot uglier!

J Daddy posted:

What are you repairing? This one is not for the faint of heart. There's 10 lbs of electronics in a 5 lb bag.

I use diluted white Elmer s glue to repair any loose coal.

Worked Good Jdaddy .Thanks, See my post on rear truck.