The Pittman was the clear choice. 
@gunrunnerjohn posted:The Pittman was the clear choice.
It was. I am glad I went with it. Maybe one day I will do this with a Williams Niagara 
. I really love the blackened look on the drivers. Modernizes the locomotive.
@Sid's Trains posted:Well I used the chuff generator and it didn't work. It gave a double chuff like what a articulated would have. You and I had some emails a while back on that.
I suspect I might have to do some "fine tuning" on it to make it work. OTOH, I have the technology.
What RCDR did you use with the BEMC?
Looks great! It even sounds great! A lot of videos have disappointing sound but this one is excellent. Good work!
Sid,
If you would like to improve the look of your Class J, I would suggest that you first darken the ends of those axles. Next, brighten up the number plate bezels the five strips on the front of the skyline casing and the handrail stanchions with some silver/chrome paint. One thing too note in the photo below. You will see a brass colored builder's plate. It also should be silver, along with the class plate that you may have on the side of the cylinder chest.
Later, if you happen to be picky, try to find a Lionel trailing truck. I am pretty sure that the one provided by Williams has a brake cylinder mounted on the outside of the truck frame. The J's did not have these.
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Question for you Sid if you don't mind..
I just picked up a much rougher version of your 611 and am going down a similar route - albeit with the ERR modules.
As to the flywheel and motor - how are they attached? Is it a set-screw, or a press-fit? Any info on how the motor to u-joint assembly some apart would be appreciated!
@Escher posted:Question for you Sid if you don't mind..
I just picked up a much rougher version of your 611 and am going down a similar route - albeit with the ERR modules.
As to the flywheel and motor - how are they attached? Is it a set-screw, or a press-fit? Any info on how the motor to u-joint assembly some apart would be appreciated!
The motor and flywheel originally on the locomotive are held on by screws and press fitment. The fitting came off by pressing it off from the back of the flywheel. Hope this helps.
When you're attempting to remote the flywheel, do NOT use the motor case as a prying surface! You must only use the motor shaft and the flywheel in the process of removing a flywheel, prying the flywheel using the motor case will kill the motor.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:When you're attempting to remote the flywheel, do NOT use the motor case as a prying surface! You must only use the motor shaft and the flywheel in the process of removing a flywheel, prying the flywheel using the motor case will kill the motor.
So - I assume there must be a "puller" tool of some sort for this then? Similar to a pulley removal tool for an car engine?
Sid, A few questions on this older thread. Which Pittman did you get in there. 33 or 34 series? Also which FW did you use. Seems like you retained the William shaft and type. Or did you just paint up and stripe the brass one.
Also can you share how you installed smoking whistle? The interior of the shell is two part. Did you just drill through both sections? G
Sid, if you use the BEMC on another steamer, I reprogrammed the Chuff-Generator for the BEMC, and it emulates the hall effect sensor output. This allows you to get perfect timing just by doing the normal calibration. The hall effect sensor toggles between high and low for each trigger, I programmed the C-G to emulate that.
@GGG posted:Sid, A few questions on this older thread. Which Pittman did you get in there. 33 or 34 series? Also which FW did you use. Seems like you retained the William shaft and type. Or did you just paint up and stripe the brass one.
Also can you share how you installed smoking whistle? The interior of the shell is two part. Did you just drill through both sections? G
I do not recall which type of Pittman it was. The flywheel was off of an MTH engine of some sort. I had it in my junk bin. I press fit the Williams coupling on it. The tach tape is not used since a hall effect sensor was used.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:Sid, if you use the BEMC on another steamer, I reprogrammed the Chuff-Generator for the BEMC, and it emulates the hall effect sensor output. This allows you to get perfect timing just by doing the normal calibration. The hall effect sensor toggles between high and low for each trigger, I programmed the C-G to emulate that.
I order a couple from you a while ago. I have used the reprogrammed chuff generator in a couple Weaver Crusaders I put legacy in. I used the BEMC setup similar to this J.
I forgot I sent you some, I guess not many people are using the BEMC. It's not quite an RCMC install, but it's actually not that bad, and you can have a much wider selection of sounds.
