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Hello all!

So after seeing the excellent work of the methods changing the lighting in coaches by members like Gunrunnerjohn or Caleb’s trains on YouTube. I thought I’d dip my toes into the pool of electrical shenanigans.

Now I’m very much a beginner when it comes to anything involving electronics. By which I mean I barely have enough of a grasp to run my trains and little else. But when I received these lovely MTH premiere Pere Marquette passenger cars I thought it would be the prime opportunity to try it out.

Now of this 7 car set only 2 coaches currently have working lights and quite honestly. I’m not impressed. Perhaps I’m a bit spoiled with my Lionel 21 inch LED lit cars.

A7B51D13-5C84-4F71-A7E2-F1B2BB3B31E2So after buying my first soldering iron, flux and a 12 v white LED strip lights from menards I set to work.

I snipped the wires that connect at the roof of the car and removed the lighting section as well as the reflective tape. I cut an LED strip to length and soldered positive to positive and negative to negative.

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And behold! Light! I do like how much brighter it is and was amazed my first 2 dabs of solder had held. But now the problems begin.

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The first is the flickering. I attempted to capture it on camera but the best can describe it as is the flickering of an incandescent bulb. Extremely fast and headache inducing.

The second is the heat! The LED strip was very warm to the touch after just a few seconds of the car being lit.

So now here comes the part where I humbly ask for help. Like I’ve said I’m certainly a newcomer to this type of project and I’m sure my work is making the more experienced members here grimace out of my ignorance. So please! Tell me what I’m doing wrong! What I can do to correct these issues or even further improve the coaches!

I’m assuming the 12 v strip isn’t enjoying my 18 v track power. What electrical components do I need to help soften the power to the strip light?

As always I thank you for your help and will keep you updated as we progress!


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Original Post

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Bell captain.....Since none of the more experienced members have responded I might be able to help. I use and recommend GRJ's passenger car board for this task. I built mine from his DIY posting giving the board design and parts listing. If your not yet ready to build the board, He has a complete kit on Hennings available for order. I think they come in a two pack.

https://hennings-trains.shopli...ed-lighting-kit.html

The board handles two of your points. Adjustable light level and flickering. The 12 volt strips run cool and there is no flicker. The cap on this board actually holds the lights on a second or  two after track power is cut off. I run a mix of TMCC and conventional both work great. If you still want to experiment you need a circuit with a resistor to get the current to the right level, a diode for half wave DC and capacitor for the flickering. You would need to change the resistor to get the light level you want. Hope this helps.

Richard

It can be done using a combinations of resistors, rectifiers and/or diodes, but not worth the effort IMHO, plus you will not have intensity adjustment unless you incorporate a pot in the mix.

My advice would be to just buy the full LED kit from GRJ or Hennings. Not cheap, but you get enough to do two cars and you're done in 15 minutes with no flickering and adjustable brightness.

I'll third the suggestion to go with pre-built boards that have everything already built put together to mitigate flicker and yield the right amount of light.   I've heard only good things about GRJ's boards.   Another option is the boards from Royz Trains.   You can get them with the connector for MTH cars already installed, and customer service is great.   I have them in two sets of pax cars and am adding them to two more.

Well.  It always makes me smile to see guys taking the DIY-plunge buying a soldering iron, flux, etc. and giving it a go.  OGR is a very supportive community so whether you choose the pre-assembled Hennings LED modules or continue the DIY route, we've collectively got-your-back as they say.

Apparently you're running 18V AC on the track.  The 12V LED strips are meant to be operated with DC voltage.  It is true, and you've seen it with your own eyes, that 12V DC LED strips will light up if you apply 18V AC.  But the fact of the matter is AC and DC do NOT play well together and you are electrically "stressing" the LEDs by driving them with AC.  As previously noted, at minimum you really ought to insert a 10-cent diode into the circuit.  That will at least drive the LEDs with DC as was meant to be.  We can get into specifics of what part(s) to buy later if you continue the DIY route.

As for the flickering.  If you stay the DIY route, in addition to the diode, you at minimum need to add a 25-cent capacitor and 5-cent resistor.  The capacitor will demote the flickering.  OTOH, to eliminate (vs. demote) the flickering you need to additionally add some kind of 50-cent regulator IC chip.  Again, we can get into specifics of what exact part(s) to buy if you want to pursue the DIY route.

There have been many OGR threads on the nuts-and-bolts of this affair but each situation is really different.  That is, apparently your specific situation is 7 cars.  The logic, cost, analysis, or whatever you want to call it changes depending on if you're dealing with 1 car, 10 cars or 100 cars.  Then there's the issue of whether you are comfortable with soldering, how much time you have, thickness of your wallet, whether you want to learn more about electronics, etc.

Here's another option for the DIY fan.  This is somewhat buried in a thread in the Electrical forum.

This is pretty much the same functionality as my lighting module in the previous post, just a thru-hole DIY design.

DIY Constant Current Passenger Car Lighting Module - Circuit: gunrunnerjohn - Added: Rod Stewart - Level: Beginning - Estimated Cost: Less than $3 per Board

Easy to build module with only 6 components, and easy Through-Hole assembly. Very nice beginner level project. (Rod says: If I can build them, anyone can! ) Cost is less than $3 a board, and could be reduced to about $1.00 with all offshore parts. User notes are included for even more assistance with building this project.

Link to Thread: GRJ's Original DIY Constant Current PAX Car Lighting Module Files - DIY Project Files are in First Post of Thread  -  Gunrunnerjohn has posted this project on OSHPark, you can now order boards directly from this link: This Project on OSHPark - GRJ's post, including this link, is several posts down in the project thread.

GRJs Constant Current Lighting Module

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