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I am looking for a little assistance regarding wheel replacement on my 2046. 

After installing the replacement wheel sets (originals from the train tender), there seems to be more gap between the inside of the wheels and the motor assembly.  I gauged the wheels at 1.25" on the outside of the flange.  Is the dimension correct?  There were shims/spacers on the original wheel and axle assemblies that I re-used.

The engine runs well, but sounds a little louder (gear mesh).

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  • 2046 Bot {New Wheels}
  • 2046 Wheel Gauge
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Although the track gauge is nominal 1.25", the wheels should be somewhat closer than your measure to prevent binding in curves. I suggest you make a simple wheel gauge as shown in photo. Cut notches in a piece of cardboard or plastic to match the flanges on your other 3-rail locomotives or typical fast-angle wheelsets, rather than postwar rolling-stock wheels that flop around on the axles. If the wheels are gauged too close the flanges will stumble on switch frog guardrails.

The end-play in the drive axles should be small enough for the drive gears to consistently mesh well. If end-play is excessive after proper gauging, you would need to pull the wheels to add spacers on the axles.

You could get more gear noise if newer gears on drive wheels are used with older worn gears on motor frame. Not an operational issue if it runs OK.

O wheel gauge-

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  • O wheel gauge-
Last edited by Ace

I believe that tinplate, while the track was 1.25", had wheel gauges ranging from 1.16"-1.223", measured as you have. I might be wrong, but just a little thing.

As El Classico wrote, Lionel used a range of wheel gauges. The Lionel factory service manual recommended measuring the gauge before disassembly so the wheels could be remounted with the proper gauge. If I have a 2046 mechanism handy, I will check the gauge and post it.

I have a good 2046 mechanism. I think that it has never been disassembled.
Measured at the very bottom of the flange, where it meets the "tire". I get 1.240 inches.
There is a slight taper to the flanges, so I think my wheels are gauged a little smaller than yours.
There are very thin washers between the wheels and the axle bearing on all four flanged wheels.
I did not see any washers on the blind drivers.
There is a little side to side play between the wheels and the axle bearings.
The wheels do not touch the magnetic pole pieces.

Just curious: why did you replace the wheels? Did you replace all six?

Last edited by C W Burfle

Thanks folks!

C.W., I replaced all three wheel sets not knowing what else I might find at disassembly.  I could not find the picture of the rear geared wheel to show here, but it lost three teeth.  Of interest, is that basically 180 degrees opposite of the missing teeth there had been a slight flat spot on the edge of the flange.  I bought the engine twelve or thirteen years ago, kind of noticed it, dressed it(file and an India stone) and went on with it. It has run great for years now at Christmas time.  A couple of months ago I was running it and it started to sound rough (like a lack of lube).  So I stopped it and started looking knowing it had recently been lubed.  Rotated the wheels some and the missing teeth stuck out.

I should have been a little smarter and gauged the wheels before removing them.  I did put the spacers(washers) back on the forward and aft wheel sets. If the gauge is off, I will disassemble the locomotive enough and press the wheel sets a little closer together.  Since I will be ordering some more parts from the Train Tender today I will order some additional spacers(washers).  What I might do tonight is get a feeler gauge set measurement and let you know what the wheel to frame space is and go from there.

I should have been a little smarter and gauged the wheels before removing them.  I did put the spacers(washers) back on the forward and aft wheel sets. If the gauge is off, I will disassemble the locomotive enough and press the wheel sets a little closer together.  Since I will be ordering some more parts from the Train Tender today I will order some additional spacers(washers).  What I might do tonight is get a feeler gauge set measurement and let you know what the wheel to frame space is and go from there.

Other than the one thin washer between each wheel and the wheel bearing on the end wheels (total four washers), you should not need additional spacers unless the faces of the wheel bearing are worn. You only need to eliminate the wheels from rubbing on the magnet poles. As I wrote above there is end play on the wheels.

I keep plenty of 671M-23 and 671M-19 washers on hand. Jeff has them available on his wholesale list. You do need to order the minimum quantities of each individual item on his wholesale list, but there is no dollar minimum.

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