Lionel 2352 EP-5 Horn

Install the D Cell battery, and then actuate using the whistle lever/button. Note that most all classic transformers have multiple non-obvious positions on whistle control:

Off - No whistle
Pickup- High DC offset just enough initiate the command
Hold - Minimal DC offset to hold the whistle command active and an additional +5V Boost to for older air whistles

The modern electronics generally only react to the Pickup and not the Hold position. You may also find your horns work best in this position.

On the ZW, the Pickup position is selected by pushing the whistle lever partway, but not all the way to the stop. Turn it just shy of the Hold position (just shy of the position that provides the 5V boost that brightens the headlight and speeds the motor).

This is documented in the Lionel literature:

If the control doesn't seem to work for you, there are further troubleshooting steps you can take.

1) Remove the shell and do a very basic check for suspect wires etc.

2) Clean the horn relay contacts with something like a contact cleaner.

3) See if the relay contacts close when the whistle control is triggered.

4) "Shock" the horn into action by giving it a tad more voltage than a traditional D Cell can provide.

In guiding you through this, note that Olsen's kindly hosts the service documents for your EP-5 (Click to expand):

http://www.olsenstoy.com/2352.htm

This is a lot to take in, but please ask questions and we'll help you out!

Make sure the contacts on the relay are clean,a thin nail file will do it,with the shell off you can activate the horn by just closing the relay contacts....do this in a quiet location you should hear something,if not the horn may be out of tune...you can adjust the screw on the horn,that failing new replacements are available....joe

Install a good D Cell battery. With the shell off power up the engine. Lock out the E-unit with engine in neutral to keep it from moving. Then with power to engine press the whistle control on your transformer. Make note whether the whistle relay in the engine activates. If it does but no sound then you must determine if it is the relay contacts or the horn.

Trace the wire from the horn back to the relay. Connect a jumper wire at this point. Take a D cell battery and touch one end against the horn and touch the other end of the jumper that you connected to relay contact to the other side of the battery. The horn should sound if it is working. If it does then you have either dirty relay contacts or the battery is not making good connection in the battery holder.

If the horn does not sound with the battery jumper as stated above you can try to shock it by connecting 10 volt AC from transformer directly to the horn. Do this very briefly for only a second or two.

I have only had limited success filing the relay contacts. For best results I dis-assemble the relay and polish the contacts with a 220 grit fiber Dremel wheel.

If the relay does not energize then you must determine if it is the relay or the transformer.

Good luck.

Forest

Very helpful advice, thank you.  So the relay does operate when I push the whistle lever half way.  However, the only sound that comes out of the horn is a very angry buzz.  I turned the adjusting screw in both directions bit no difference.  Time to replace the horn?

NNJ Railfan posted:

Very helpful advice, thank you.  So the relay does operate when I push the whistle lever half way.  However, the only sound that comes out of the horn is a very angry buzz.  I turned the adjusting screw in both directions bit no difference.  Time to replace the horn?

Maybe not. Try to wire the horn directly to a good battery as I explained above. The relay may have a high resistance and not allowing enough power through. If still just a buzz you can then try to shock it with 10volt AC. Horn should make more than angry buzz. It should be an Angry Beep.

Also check the battery contact points in the engine to make sure there is no corrosion or rust. Take a bright boy or fine emory paper and polish the lid where it touches the battery and do the same where the top of the battery touches. And most importantly make sure you're using a good battery.

Try a screwdriver to push up lower contract .

While testing. 

Also what they do. Is solder a wire on back of relay.  So you get a good contact.

But if the contacts are not making a good sit the horn will work lousy.

I know I am going thru it.  

I'd suggest not using an abrasive item such as a file or sandpaper to clean the contacts - you don't want to remove any plating on them as you open the door to even poorer performance over time. Here's some older threads about relay/horn/whistle tune-ups:

https://ogrforum.com/...el-2351-back-in-tune

https://ogrforum.com/...88#45918752513014188

https://ogrforum.com/...91#39159636256702891

If you are getting a loud buzzing sound when you operate the horn, there is AC current leaking to the horn. Check for sloppy soldering on the relay solder lugs, especially the lug directly in front of the one the horn wire is soldered. Perhaps a drop of solder is bridging the contacts. Also check the battery bracket that the insulating cardboard is there, same for the insulating washers on the bracket screws.

If you file /dress points, keep the cut as flat as possible so they are flat right as they connect.

Thanks for everyone’s advice.  I dissembled most of the relay and cleaned all contact points.  I believe, however, that the adjusting screw was the culprit.  It Seems it can be overtightened and overloosened with the same effect. Once I found the sweet spot, it worked fine.  Stay healthy and safe everyone.

NNJ Railfan posted:

Thanks for everyone’s advice.  I dissembled most of the relay and cleaned all contact points.  I believe, however, that the adjusting screw was the culprit.  It Seems it can be overtightened and overloosened with the same effect. Once I found the sweet spot, it worked fine.  Stay healthy and safe everyone.

Glad to hear you  got it working.

Removing plating from plated points should be avoided, sure.

Filing points, you are really just looking to remove any tit that may have formed as electricity jumps the gap, taking a few metal molecules along and depositing them on the other point.  Maybe you'd file a really bad pitted side, but not often. Replace pitted ones. (one side builds a tit, one has a pit dug )

Cleaning with CRC electrical contact cleaner alone should work if the points are smooth and close well but don't make contact.  (likely carbon dust and or oil varnish buildup)

Other reasons might be a rusty point rivet, but not on a Lionel I've seen. (Points don't rust easy if at all, but rust dust might foul contact)