Lionel 6-18266 DC Can Motor Removal

You only need to remove the one screw in the middle near the pickup roller.

Aside from asking how to remove the motor, you didn’t provide much information about your problem.  I have a few questions which, I am sure, others who might help will also ask.

• what are you going to use to replace the motor since both motors (with and without the Odyssey sensor) are discontinued?
• these motors rarely fail.  How did you determine that the motor is the problem?

Sorry if these sound like dumb questions but inquiring minds want to know.

Well, it's going to be an adventure.  This appears to be one of the Lionel puzzle trucks.  You have to drop the whole bottom plate to get the motor out, the motor mount screws are internal to the truck.

Thanks for your comments fellows. Dan, I did just that, removed the one screw in the middle near the pickup and the motor didn't budge.

The problem started after I replaced the flywheel magnet ring. Once I put the locomotive back on the track the problem still exists with the runaway locomotive. I was also sure to install the magnet ring to the flywheel with the dimples in the magnet ring facing upward toward the top of the flywheel.

I have two spare motors with Odyssey sensors attached.

Recently after forwarding this original post for assistance, I discovered when making a comparison with the new Odyssey sensor and motor to the old.  There is a small part missing on the old motor's Odyssey sensor. Not sure if it's some type of diode or resistor, but on the top of the new Odyssey sensors they have a number "2005" engraved on it and is tiny, black, rectangular, with three legs.

I may have knocked it out of place during the flywheel removal or it was damaged when the magnet ring shattered.

Gunrunner you are right, when I look at this truck from the bottom it appears to be one solid piece.

The locomotive ran well before the magnet ring shattered. If this missing part on the Odyssey sensor with the "2005" inscription on it would cause the engine to runaway upon powering it up, I would much rather find a suitable replacement to solder back on the Odyssey motor board.

I appreciate your help with this matter.

Thanks, Mike

Lionel diesel motors rarely come off with a single screw like everyone else's do.

There will be at least one accessed from the top near the motor, maybe a pair that have come out.

Pete

Mike, go to Lionel support and put the Lionel 6-18266 number in. It will bring up the engine but no breakdown of parts. There are several parts shown that you can see what they look like. The odyssey sensor is listed. Check the picture with the one you are trying to use. They may be different.

Thanks, fellows, for your response.

Pete, I will check for those screws on the top side, especially if I can't find the replacement part on top of the Odyssey motor board.

Rod, I checked the Lionel Support parts list for the pic of the Odyssey board. The part that is missing on my original Odyssey motor board is the little diode or resistor, I assume. It is the little 3 leg part directly under the letter "Q" where it says "Q1".

Any idea of what that part is called and where i can get a replacement of equal value?

Thanks, Mike

There is only a single part on the Odyssey 1 sensor board, that's the hall effect sensor.

If that is missing, obviously it's the same as if the flywheel ring is missing.

If you can reach it under the flywheel, you could remove the sensor from another sensor board and solder it to the one on your motor.

I'm curious, you did you put the magnet ring on without removing the flywheel?  Removing it is one thing, but pressing it back on without supporting the armature on the other side usually wrecks the motor by sliding the commutator on the shaft.

Unfortunately I can’t help with a part number.

@romiller49 posted:

Unfortunately I can’t help with a part number.

The sensor board is 691-MMVS-B00

Hello fellows, the hall sensor was missing from the Odyssey motor board. Once I replaced it, she is back running again.

Gunrunner, you were right about replacing the flywheel without removing the motor from the truck, usually wrecks the motor. I pressed the flywheel back on the shaft after replacing the hall sensor without removing the motor from the truck. She runs but the flywheel floats up and down, causing the locomotive not to run smooth, especially at slow speeds. The price a "Newbie" pays because he didn't ask.

Gunrunner you stated in this post earlier, that this locomotive truck appeared to be one of Lionel's puzzle trucks. And I would need to drop the whole bottom plate to get the motor out. I have to replace the motor, so where do I begin to drop the bottom plate? If any further pics are needed please let me know.

Thanks to everyone who chimed in. I got her back running but created a new problem for myself. I appreciate any and all help in giving me directions on removing the motor from the truck so I may replace the motor. Lionel 6-18266

Thanks, Mike

I have to see it to know which screws to remove, I haven't seen the six wheel one lately.  Pretty sure you'll have to remove the pickups and some of those visible screws.  Once you get inside, there are a couple of screws that are actually holding the motor mount to the top of the truck, then the motor comes off.  Of course, when you remove the bottom plate, all the wheels fall out as well as the drive gear, so you have to get all of those square bearing blocks aligned and the bottom back on.

In short, I can't imagine what Lionel was thinking when they designed those trucks!

Gunrunner, thanks for your response. I will attempt to forward pics of truck. I did so yesterday and only one of five displayed. The pickups you mentioned also screw from inside of the truck.

@Harbor posted:

The pickups you mentioned also screw from inside of the truck.

Yep, and you have to reach inside the slot to take the screws out .

Hello out there, I'm seeking help removing the motor from the front truck on my Lionel 6-18266 Diesel Locomotive. Please see pics of truck from my last post. I removed the (6) small screws and (2) bearing/axle covers from the bottom of the truck, plus the (1) large screw near the pickup. The (2) bearing/axle covers apparently have no effect upon the removal of the truck or motor. At this point I am not sure if the removal of the (1) large screw near the pickup, will have an effect upon motor removal later in the process.

I also removed one small screw located at the rear of the motor, accessed through the slot at the top of the frame. This screw also supports a wire that s in contact with the front pickup.

None of the screws removed thus far separates the motor from the truck and I do not see any other screws that are accessible through the frame with the truck in place. Help!!!

Thanks, Mike

You first have to separate the bottom of the truck from the top, then you can get to the motor mount screws.

Pretty sure the screw that holds the pickup roller has to come out.

Pete

@Norton posted:

Pretty sure the screw that holds the pickup roller has to come out.

Yep, both of the pickup rollers in this case.  You have to remove anything that holds the bottom of the truck on.  I mentioned that previously, I figured they would already be removed.

Forgive me if what I am describing is not clear.

I started by removing all (8) small screws, (2) bearing caps, (which hold the bearing caps over the axle of both the front and rear axles) from the bottom of the truck. After removing these parts, this allowed me to remove the rear "dummy" wheel set and with axle and the front wheel set and axle which included (1) drive gear.

Then, I removed the large screw from the bottom of the truck that is just behind the front pickup. Alter this last screw, there are no other screws to remove from the bottom of the truck.

Then I went to the top side of the frame and removed the only (1) accessible screw and it related parts thru the slot in the frame located behind the motor. Once this screw was removed the rear pickup fell out and the pickup insulator.

Now there are five more screw on top of the truck, and they are not accessible through any slots cut out in the frame. One of the (5) screws is located on the top of the truck in front of the motor. There are no accessible slots cut out in the frame to remove this screw. This screw is the one that goes thru the top side of the truck to the front pickup.

The remaining four screws that screw in thru the top of the truck, support the left and right side frames. These also are not accessible unless the truck is removed first.

I hope this helps, thanks Mike

I believe you'll have to remove both pickups before you can separate the truck.

Hello, I would like to make an amendment to paragraph four above concerning the single screw located in the front of the motor on the top of the truck. This screw secures the front pickup wire (red) that is daisy chained to the rear pickup. Thanks, Mike

The motor mount has this "stop" made on the front of it that stops the truck when it reaches its maximum turn to the right and the left. This stop sits directly above the front pickup screw. So it does not allow access to the front pickup screw. Thanks, mike

I haven’t received any further feedback on how to access this front pickup screw. (See recent post on motor mount “stop tab”) that is blocking access to front pickup screw.

Did Lionel ever make a motor mount that snaps or wedges into place between the motor and top of truck?

If there is no further solutions would it be reasonable to drill a hole through the frame to get access to the front pickup?

Thanks, Mike

@Harbor posted:

Did Lionel ever make a motor mount that snaps or wedges into place between the motor and top of truck?

Yep, but this model doesn't have them.  I know it's one of the trucks that comes all apart because Lionel lists the wheel set with the worm gear that mates with the motor worm!

Here's is a possibly Gunrunner. The original owner of this locomotive may have changed the truck to one where the motor mount snaps into place. If so, would you know how to remove this type of snap-in motor mount?

Thanks, Mike

Twist-off trucks come off by twisting 90 degrees to the left.  However, the bottom of the truck looks nothing like what you have.

Ok, thanks. I’ll wait until tomorrow, maybe someone else may chime in to explain how to access the front pickup screw. If not, I’ll consider drilling a hole through the frame just above the front pickup screw so I may remove it.

Crazy part is, based on everything that those who chimed in have stated, the front pickup screw along with the rear, need to be removed in order to separate. But how to get access to remove the front screw is beyond me.

I have looked, studied, and searched for a way and this is beyond me.

Thanks, Mike

I  have the same problem with a Lionel H16-44 #6-28813 engine.  It started with a broken flywkeel magnet, and that took out the sensor on the motor.

If I have any luck getting the motor free from the truck, I will post the answer to the puzzle truck here.

Thanks chooChoopaul, I really appreciate your response and will look forward to hearing from you!

Thanks, Mike

It appears as if your trucks are similar to the SD80MAC and SD90MAC trucks.  The  6-18297 New York Central SD80MAC (and a few other engines) uses the same geared wheelset that @gunrunnerjohn mentions in his post.

See the parts list at

https://www.lionelsupport.com/...SD80MAC-9914-6-18297

If the trucks are the same, the long screw that you removed from the rear pickup should release the motor adapter from the truck.

There is the possibility that the screw behind the front pickup goes into the motor adapter.

Below is a picture of the motor adapter.

The screw used on the rear pickup should go into the flat part of the motor adapter. The two holes in the middle are used to attach the motor to the motor adapter (with screws from the bottom of the motor adapter).

Here is a picture of the top of the SD80MAC truck.

I believe the four round heads screws are for the sideframes. The flathead screw should be for the pilot.

Thanks for the info.

I will roll up my sleves, and report back.

@calsz06 posted:

It appears as if your trucks are similar to the SD80MAC and SD90MAC trucks.  The  6-18297 New York Central SD80MAC (and a few other engines) use the same geared wheelset that @gunrunnerjohn mentions in his post.

See the parts list at https://www.lionelsupport.com/...SD80MAC-9914-6-18297.

If the trucks are the same, the long screw that you removed from the rear pickup should release the motor adapter from the truck.

Here's a correct link to that engine mentioned.

https://www.lionelsupport.com/...SD80MAC-9914-6-18297

I forgot to mention, sometimes the motor mount is kinda' stuck to the truck, so some firm wiggling may be in order.

Thanks everyone for your input. Calsz06, thanks for the pics. As soon as I get back in, I will look at this again. ChooChooPaul, if you should get some headway please comment , I would love to hear your results.

Thanks, Mike

I got it out everyone!

As Gunrunner stated "the motor mount is kinda' stuck to the truck". The only screws that are necessary to remove is the one large screw on the bottom of the truck behind the front pickup and the small rear pickup screw located behind the motor and accessed from the top cutout in the frame.

Afterward, I used the handle of my plastic maul to tap the body of the motor until it broke free. The pics provided by Calsz06 and the fact that Gunrunner mention that sometimes the mount gets stuck to the truck, gave me the confidence to tap the motor a little harder than I did before.

Once I am up and running once again, I will let you know.

Thanks, Mike

Note that you should NEVER tap/pound on the motor shaft, that's the tap of death frequently for the motor!  Rocking the motor body slightly is fine.  Another thing is to unscrew the motor mount screw a few turns and give a RAP on the end of the screwdriver still in the screw, that  will also be a safe place to dislodge it.

Got It! Thanks to you and everyone for the help.

Mike

Hello Gunrunner, would you have that exact part number for either Mouser or DigiKey, for the 2 or 3  watt wire wound, 20ohm or 22ohm smoke resistors. I believe the ones in the white rectangular cement coffin were the ones you spoke of, and I cannot find this type on their website.

Thanks, Mike

#Lionel Smoke Unit Resistor

@Harbor posted:

Hello Gunrunner, would you have that exact part number for either Mouser or DigiKey, for the 2 or 3  watt wire wound, 20ohm or 22ohm smoke resistors. I believe the ones in the white rectangular cement coffin were the ones you spoke of, and I cannot find this type on their website.

These are the ones I use, Yageo SQP500JB-20R.

Well close but no cigar.

I have been sucessful in removing the motor with the sensor from the #6-28813 engine.

But there are three screws that must be removed from the truck assembly. One philips head from the bottom of the truck, and two different lenght 2mm screws from the top. They are accessable from the top through the frame slot for pivioting the truck. One has a red wire and terminal and bushing going to the collector on the bottom of the truck And the other shorter screw has a black wire and terminal.

Be advised that the fix-it flywheel does not fit the replacement magnet ring.

Till another day.