I have a Lionel Postwar 6560 Crane car and it's nice but there are two issues that are shown in the video bellow. It spins way to easily and is wobbly. How can I fix these issues?
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Isn't the crane part held to the base by a big horseshoe clip, with that much play you should be able to put a shim washer under the clip to take up the slop...
Marty
Martin Derouin posted:Isn't the crane part held to the base by a big horseshoe clip, with that much play you should be able to put a shim washer under the clip to take up the slop...
Marty
Yes it is held on by that clip so I could use a washer.
Some, if not all crane cars have a wavy washer (#22-64) between the cab floor and the turret that is molded into the body of the flat. If yours has one maybe it needs to be made a bit more wavy. See diagram
Have you got it fixed yet??????
Marty
Martin Derouin posted:Have you got it fixed yet??????
Marty
Yeah I bent the washer and it is alot more stiff and firm. Much better, Thanks.
I have the same problem on an older C&O crane that I got a few years back. I can’t run it because it swings uncontrollably when it’s on the track.
Just for a different look on the issue; because no boom movement leads to a huge overhang in curves on the short wheelbase cranes. (long, flatcar types, the usual outer overhang is replaced by stringline/inside overhang)
...You can also tie the boom down by putting the hook on the car. I use an extra flat car, work caboose, gondola, hopper, etc. as a crane hook's tender.
Hooked to a post, ring, brake wheel stand, or weighted load; maybe plunked down into a deck box, etc.. I will also nest the boom in a wire spool on another car to guide the boom in curves as well.
The flat/caboose crane tender is closer to reality too. The hook would be fixed to a deck somehow or locked onto the boom somewhere for travel.
It wouldn't float free for long, fast, or far...no way. Those hook's weight is no joke.
(you could mod the crane with a loop I guess)
When the short frame boom is fixed straight ahead, the outside overhang is huge . If the boom is dragged into turning by the next car, a "normal" stringline clearance along the boom is all you need.
If it's so loose it's cab is tippy that will make dragging into turning harder by conentrating pressures to one spot of the thrust area. A flat washer would fill the gap too, but as a "thrust bearing", being flat hopefully smooth, the axle side thrusts would have a more equal pressure 360° and should slide easier overall)
There ARE differences between some washers, spacers, machine washers, thrust washers, etc.. but specifics overlap as well 
Wavy washers come two main ways. As actual springs, normally thin and very tight tolerances, or as a European lock washer, which may be thicker and stronger, so inspect them. (much better than USA split lock washers IMO. They don't spread open or break as often, resist vibration better, spread downforce smoothly, & are usually our grade 10 or higher( some high heat use lower). If heat abused they survive better too though. I will often wait to avoid an American spit lock washer.) I swap in the nearest MM size available on USA thread types.
Wavy washers come two main ways. As actual springs, normally thin and very tight tolerances, or as a European lock washer, which may be thicker and stronger, so inspect them. (much better than USA split lock washers IMO. They don't spread open or break as often, resist vibration better, spread downforce smoothly, & are usually our grade 10 or higher( some high heat use lower). If heat abused they survive better too though. I will often wait to avoid an American spit lock washer.) I swap in the nearest MM size available on USA thread types.
Just for a different look on the issue; because no boom movement leads to a huge overhang in curves on the short wheelbase cranes. (long, flatcar types, the usual outer overhang is replaced by stringline/inside overhang)
...You can also tie the boom down by putting the hook on the car. I use an extra flat car, work caboose, gondola, hopper, etc. as a crane hook's tender.
Hooked to a post, ring, brake wheel stand, or weighted load; maybe plunked down into a deck box, etc.. I will also nest the boom in a wire spool on another car to guide the boom in curves as well.
The flat/caboose crane tender is closer to reality too. The hook would be fixed to a deck somehow or locked onto the boom somewhere for travel.
It wouldn't float free for long, fast, or far...no way. Those hook's weight is no joke.
(you could mod the crane with a loop I guess)
When the short frame boom is fixed straight ahead, the outside overhang is huge . If the boom is dragged into turning by the next car, a "normal" stringline clearance along the boom is all you need.
If it's so loose it's cab is tippy that will make dragging into turning harder by conentrating pressures to one spot of the thrust area. A flat washer would fill the gap too, but as a "thrust bearing", being flat hopefully smooth, the axle side thrusts would have a more equal pressure 360° and should slide easier overall)
There ARE differences between some washers, spacers, machine washers, thrust washers, etc.. but specifics overlap as well
Wavy washers come two main ways. As actual springs, normally thin and very tight tolerances, or as a European lock washer, which may be thicker and stronger, so inspect them. (much better than USA split lock washers IMO. They don't spread open or break as often, resist vibration better, spread downforce smoothly, & are usually our grade 10 or higher( some high heat use lower). If heat abused they survive better too though. I will often wait to avoid an American spit lock washer.) I swap in the nearest MM size available on USA thread types.
Wavy washers come two main ways. As actual springs, normally thin and very tight tolerances, or as a European lock washer, which may be thicker and stronger, so inspect them. (much better than USA split lock washers IMO. They don't spread open or break as often, resist vibration better, spread downforce smoothly, & are usually our grade 10 or higher( some high heat use lower). If heat abused they survive better too though. I will often wait to avoid an American spit lock washer.) I swap in the nearest MM size available on USA thread types.