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Having problems with the rear electro couplers on both my Norfolk Southern and CXS ET44AC LC+2.0 diesels. (Lionel# 1934032 and 1934022 respectively )

I've tried MTH couplers, old postwar cars with the staple end trucks, new cheapo plastic trucks- there's no consistent pattern- some work by SLAMMING the car into the rear truck of the diesel, while some NEVER lock the diesel's coupler. Yet, the couplers on BOTH engines  WILL lock if I press it in by hand. And, of course, if I close the diesel's coupler by hand, and the rolling stock's coupler, and manually insert one coupler into the other, they both stay locked.

I have a Lionel A5 0-4-0 switcher that works just fine with the SAME cars.

I have a Lionel #2022011 Granite Run Quarry LionChief+ 2.0 0-6-0T switcher that initially had the same problem, but I finally got it to work (although I have no earthly idea of what I did to get it to work, outside of disassembling it, and applying a drop of Labelle 107 oil inside the cylinder that the little spring- loaded rod slides in which pushes the claw out ?)  I have to add that with both diesels, the FRONT electro couplers work JUST FINE. It's always the REAR couplers that are problematic.  The same phenomenon on the Granite Run Quarry, by the way. I'm still trying to figure out the "physics" of this.

I also have a Cotton Belt GP7 Legacy Diesel Lionel #2133161, whose rear coupler works just fine, no matter what cars I couple.

What am I missing here? And, what is it with the two ET44AC's? They're only 2 months old.

Would ordering a new coupler solve this? (if available even)??

Any tips or guidance here would be greatly appreciated. I really would miss these two engines sending them in for warranty repair, because outside of the coupler issue, they are both great performers!

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  • Norfolk Southern ET44AC
  • CSX ET44AC
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I viewed a video of one of the new Mohawks today with the same complaint. The coupler would not stay closed no matter how hard the rolling stock was slammed into it.

Lionels latest flub?

If they send you a "new coupler" whose to say it won't have the same issue since parts are created by disassembling completed locomotives.

@RickO posted:
If they send you a "new coupler" whose to say it won't have the same issue since parts are created by disassembling completed locomotives.

Nothing, but who's to say if you send it back you won't have the same result?  Also, if you pay for return shipping, it'll cost you more than just buying the couplers.

It's possible, based on the coupler mount, that you could buy a different coupler and use it.  I don't have one to look at, but I suspect they use one of the standard couplers.

OK, maybe after I've exhausted all my attempts at measuring each coupler, mounted or otherwise, with my calipers, trying (probably in vain) to figure out, exactly what IS it about the shape of a functioning coupler that makes it so different from a non functional one), THEN I'll give Lionel a call to see if they'll ship me another coupler/s. I've been staring at couplers all day, and I really can't SEE a major difference with them. It's amazing that something being off by maybe 1 or 2mm would make a difference??

I went on Lionel's new support site, to see if there is a PARTS list or diagram for either of these ET44's, 1934022 and 1934032, to see if they had a rear coupler available, and there was NOTHING! Even the board ($150) is UNAVAILABLE.   A caution flag just went up in my mind!!!  (LOL)  Maybe I should just leave well enough alone. I mean once the couplers are locked, they STAY locked. Another workaround I guess would be to leave the diesel rear coupler closed, and uncouple and re-couple the CARS the old fashioned way- with the good old Lionel UCS Remote Control Track?   I know, I know- it really defeats the feature of   REMOTE coupling and uncoupling anywhere on the track.

I have to remind myself that I'm really not using either one of these diesels as SWITCHERS.  Time will tell how long I'll put up with this.

PS- To be honest, I was hoping beyond hope that there was a "magic solution" to this, like maybe shaving part of the coupler with a Dremel, (but exactly what part??) And, worse yet- part of the offending coupler may have to be LARGER?? But I guess that was wishful thinking!

FWIW, I've found many electrocouplers need to be disassembled and the interior latching surfaces cleaned up.  I have made a few that are butter smooth coupling with a few minutes work inside.  Basically, filing the casting "flash" off and then polishing the contact surfaces really makes a huge difference.  It's not that the couplers are a bad design, it's that we have a cheap manufacturing problem.

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