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I have come to the conclusion that I want one of these two tracks for my layout. However, I cannot make a decision based on cost because they are roughly the same cost.

 

I know Atlas is solid rail....is Fast Track?

 

It appears that Fast Track has very thin rails. Does Atlas Track have wider rails?

 

Fast Track comes with a roadbed is very noisy and if I used Atlas track I would need to install a roadbed and ballast. Is that a big expense and is the noise of Fast Track a big deal?

 

I would appreciate your comments and suggestions....thanks!

 

 

 

 

 

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At the end TrainHead, it's going to be your choice.  There have been tons of threads on O gauge track already boasting pro's and con's of each.  Try searching for best track, etc.

 

What you will get is good individual personal opinions of each.  No opinion is right or wrong, they are based on their own individual experience and likes, no more and no less.  Good luck in your choice.

 

Steve, Lady and Tex

Originally Posted by TrainHead:

I have come to the conclusion that I want one of these two tracks for my layout. However, I cannot make a decision based on cost because they are roughly the same cost.

 

I know Atlas is solid rail....is Fast Track?  No.

 

It appears that Fast Track has very thin rails. Does Atlas Track have wider rails?  Not that I noticed, just wider at the top - not rounded.

 

Fast Track comes with a roadbed is very noisy and if I used Atlas track I would need to install a roadbed and ballast. Is that a big expense and is the noise of Fast Track a big deal?  the noise is a big deal annoying but you can mitigate it but that costs more than ballasted the Atlas - that is not expensive but takes time.  

 

I would appreciate your comments and suggestions....thanks!

 

I had Fastrack , ruined it cleaning it with Simple Green and replaced it with Atlas, ballasted all of it.  Love Lionel, but I love the Atlas track more.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I use Atlas O track on my permanent layout and use FasTrack for temporary, seasonal layouts.

 

FasTrack is hollow (tubular) rail, not solid like Atlas O. The rail profile itself is actually an inverted "U" in the roadbed.  Atlas O rails have a T-shaped cross section.  The Atlas O top rail surface area is a bit wider than FasTrack but not by much, going on recollection.

 

As to noise, well the hollow rails & roadbed of FasTrack is definitely noisy compared to Atlas O, IMHO.  You can insulate the underside of the FasTrack roadbed using foam or other sound-deadening material, and others on the forum have done so as well, but frankly for what amounts to the same amount of work I would just use Atlas O track w/ cork or foam roadbed as I've done with a permanent layout in mind.

Is this your first or second layout?

FasTrack assembles easily, can be changed quickly, has reliable electrical connections with no extra effort and has very reliable switches. The geometry is easy to work with to create a layout.

It will get you up and running trains quickly, working on wiring, adding accessories and scenery.

 

Then when you decide what you like, you it can sell it easily without too big of a hit. Then you can dig in on roadbeds, custom track, and switches, ballasting and advanced scenery.

 

Atlas and Gargraves look great, but it requires much more time.

 

I'm glad I went with FasTrack. My mistakes(er, umm, I mean learning) were not as costly. It's going to end up on modules anyway. Then, something decent in the train room.

I was going to go with FasTrack as I had some, and have heard so much about the bulletproof switches.  But after seeing several photos here of those with Atlas track on cork (unballasted) and really liking it, I bought a loop and pair of switched used here on the forums.  As soon as I set it up and ran a box car by hand on it, I knew that I was going to use Atlas.  The reduction of noise was amazing.  And I really like the look and feel of the Atlas.  I do have a small layout of FasTrack already, and use FasTrack on the floor too, and will continue to use it on the floor, but my permanent layout will be Atlas.

Fast Track noise after 5 plus years still talked about but not sure why.Look I am not gong to argue the point but it is not a problem and surely not annoying at least mine is not. Id I can get around to it I can post some video, I have some on you tube but have long ago forgot my name and password.

 

So yes I use it on my layout. I have had t in play since 2007. No it makes no more noise than any other track.

 

Start with solid bench work. I have found using a 3/4 in plywood top works great. I have it screwed to a 2-4 frame work with just that are only a foot apart. You could go wider but I had the free lumber.

 

Then place Anderson ceiling tile upside down on top of this. It works a ton better than homisite (sp) most people just have to have. Screw this down to the plywood.

 

I then coat the entire top with a paint. The paint acts as a protective layer. Works great when you start to do scenery.

 

I have found that screwing the Fast Track down through the ceiling tile into the plywood works great. It even forces the edges of the roadbed to dig into the ceiling tile a little.  I then add what I need for the ground cover right up to the track and sill with white glue or what ever you want to use for this.

 

It works like a charm and you don't have the same noise as you would like when you have it on carpet around your Christmas tree.

 

Now depending on what your running I find the switches can make some noise as some engines glide over it while others bump of thump.

 

Now the real question is what type of track will you be happy with when viewing it on your layout. Personalty I like the looks of Atlas better. For me though the fun of this hobby is about the trains and running them and not how much you can devote into the ultimate set design. I'm more of a track and train guy.

 

Don't get me wrong anyone who wants to stop by and do the landscaping your welcome. But for me it is about trains and track footage.

 

So yes Fast Track can be as tame as any other track system.

Originally Posted by TrainHead

 

Fast Track comes with a roadbed is very noisy and if I used Atlas track I would need to install a roadbed and ballast. Is that a big expense and is the noise of Fast Track a big deal?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Atlas 21st century vs Fastrack is a bit of an apples and oranges comparison. Ultimately its up to you.

 

 I went with fastrack on my layout. The noise is a big deal if you lay the track right on plywood., but I'm with Renovo on this one.

 

 I've found 4x8 sheets of pink insulation go a long way to reducing fastrack noise. Easy to work with you cut to fit on top of your benchwork and they only cost $10. You can't roadbed and ballast your track for $10.

 

I'm  now very happy with the "lack of" noise of my fastrack.

 

I sceniced right over it then ballasted the shoulders of the fastrack. I need to weather the track itself but I'm pleased with the overall appearance.

 

Here are some "transition" photos.

 

 

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Last edited by RickO

As far as I am concerned it is Atlas.  But, as others have said you could be happy with any of it.  Check out the variety of radii.  They don't all make the same.  Symmetry of your layout could end up controlling the choice.  I think Atlas provides the best continuity of electrical connection.

Fastrack and Realtrax come with built-in roadbed, but I don't like the looks of it, and there is also a problem with continuity.  The Atlas roadbed is expensive when added to the track, and I'm not all that impressed with it either.  Some of the other roadbeds on the market look better to me, as well as less expensive, but you will have to make your on ballast.  If you choose not to ballast, the Atlas still works out fine, has good continuity, looks realistic and offers more symmetry in radii.

Originally Posted by Renovo PRR:

Fast Track noise after 5 plus years still talked about but not sure why.Look I am not gong to argue the point but it is not a problem and surely not annoying at least mine is not. 

 

As I indicated, I do use FasTrack for temporary setups.  The hollow rails plus the hollow underside of the roadbed amplifies the noise the train makes when underway.  The noise does get annoying enough for me & my family to only run trains for short periods.  Lay down Atlas and there is a difference, guaranteed.

 

Originally Posted by Renovo PRR:

I have found that screwing the Fast Track down through the ceiling tile into the plywood works great. It even forces the edges of the roadbed to dig into the ceiling tile a little.

 

For what it's worth, it's actually recommended to NOT nail or screw any track down to where the track screws or nails make contact with your woodwork.  Screwing or nailing your track into cork/foam roadbed, or to a foam, homasote, or other insulated base will help to insulate the noise.  Allowing track screws or nails to make direct contact with the layout woodwork will actually defeat the purpose of the inslulation layer as the screws will transmit the noise from the track into the plywood instead of allowing the insulation to absorb it, thereby amplifying the noise.

 

 

I do agree with you on your other points though. 

Last edited by John Korling

Hi John,

 

Not sure who make recommendations but they are wrong at least in the directions I have put above. Why do I know this, simple I did it both ways. A lot of people don't take the time to build a solid vibration and echo proof bench-work.

 

It works and the only noise my wife every complains about comes form the engines. My layout is in the TV room. I had to make it so they could not hear the trains while watching the TV and I did it. The loudest noise is the switches activating.

 

In any event it can be done. There is one other thing I did by accident, the space below the bench-work is completely full of boxes so there is no open space. Not sure if this helps but it sure didn't hurt.

Last edited by Renovo PRR

I was at the same crossroads as you several months ago and then read in a couple of posts somewhere that the atlas track does not appear to work well with the flying shoes on the lionel operating cars and therefore decided to go with fastrack. I found that cutting o scale cork roadbed to fit and then hot gluing it into the fastrack eliminates the noise factor

 

Bruce

As Rick mentioned above, these two track systems sort of serve different targets. 

Fastrack was, I'm assuming, originally intended for the "carpet runner." However, the great quality of the switches along with the good electrical conductivity seems to have given it a real place in the permanent layout community. One of the reasons that I dismantled my previous scale layout (which used gargraves track and their problematic turnouts) was the introduction of Fastrack and their quality switches. 

I'm seeing a lot of permanent layouts using fastback and it looks pretty good when weathered and blended with surrounding scenery.

Atlas was targeting the scale three-railer and many jumped to it. However, it is geared towards the permanent layout as it needs to be screwed or glued down to stay together. The switch wiring /conductivity seems to get a lot of complaints with many needing to do pre-installation surgery to insure continuous electrical power throughout. While I like the look, I feel that the track still misses the scale mark with it's grossly oversized rails and tall ties. 

I use fastrack, and I too was concerned about the noise which seemed to be a common complaint. However, the other factor that played in my decision was that not only were the switches considered very reliable, the conductivity of the track itself seemed to get very high marks.

 

I certainly can attest to that. When I first set up my layout, which has approximately 240 pieces of track and 15 remote switches, everything worked with just one power connection. Now that the track is permanent, I've added probably another 10 power drops just to be sure, but originally it all worked with just the single power connection. And, all 15 switches are also running on just track power.

 

As far as noise, I strongly agree with Renovo PRR, that you should make your benchwork as solid as possible, to try and eliminate as much of the vibration as possible. I used 2x4 contruction, with lots of supporting framework, and as suggested 3/4" plywood for the top. I also used a sil gasket between any contacting wood surfaces, again trying to reduce vibration.

 

Finally, I covered the whole top with "Hardwood Floor" underlay pad. It's a very dense type of foam, only about 3/16" thick. Easy to cut with shears, and lays perfectly flat. I did glue it down but it pretty much stays put, even without glue. This to me has completely solved any noise issues.

 

I can't comment about any other track, as I have never had any experience with them, but I can tell you that I am very happy with my fastrack set up. I'm not a true "Hi-Rail" guy, so ultimate realism wasn't a priority for me. I just wanted something reliable, and resonably good looking. I may "dress up" the look later with some ballast, but hey looks OK to me as it is.

 

 

The green stuff under the NS Tank train is the Hardwood underlay pad.

 

Hope this helps you rather than adding to the confusion.

 

REV

 

 

024

 

 

This shot show a lower level track, where I used standard carpet underlay. Works OK, but doesn't have as smooth a surface, and is not nearly as dense a product. The smooth surface of the green stuff lets buildings and any other accessories sit flat and level.

 

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Last edited by revitupfaster
Originally Posted by Scott T Johnson:
5) Take the switch machine and throw it away or sell. GRJohn is right. They're crap. They can be made to work but not worth the hassle. I use Z Stuff machines. Small, reliable and come with green/red light indicators to indicate position. There are several other good options.
What dies it take to make them work?  I'd like to know, even if it's not worth it.

6) If you are going to couple/uncouple that's a whole subject in itself. The Atlas uncoupler can be made to work REALLY well with the right approach (location, wiring and RS choice). Otherwise it's frustrating and you can easily overheat and kill em. I think I have at least 3 dead ones.

Also what do you need to make the uncouplers work really well?  What approach is best?

Hi Sinclair,
Before I knew about alternative switch machines I got the Atlas machines to work better by undoing the little screws that anchors them to the track and placing a small shim (cardboard) just ahead of the throw arm section to provide as much freedom to move as possible. I also took each one apart  and made sure there wasn't any plastic flash that would cause binding or drag as the solenoids that throw the switch back and forth do not seem to provide enough force for the sloppy linkage inside the switch. After all that I have one that works really well and two that work well enough. In the instructions that comes with switch there is a way to adjust the tension of the springs on the linkage but the heck with that!
 
On coupling and uncoupling I wire the little track section to track power which is ok because I run conventional. The real key for me was the pancake coupler that you find on later MTH Premier and Lionel Scale cars. Line it up right (I use a little sight gauge) and just a quick tap and "pop" it opens right up especially the Lionel Scale. If the car coupler is a thumbtack, some will work but most require you to apply a lot of power which is noisy and not good for the uncoupler. So, almost all of my RS is Premier or Lionel Scale except for cabooses.
 
Originally Posted by sinclair:
Originally Posted by Scott T Johnson:
5) Take the switch machine and throw it away or sell. GRJohn is right. They're crap. They can be made to work but not worth the hassle. I use Z Stuff machines. Small, reliable and come with green/red light indicators to indicate position. There are several other good options.
What dies it take to make them work?  I'd like to know, even if it's not worth it.

6) If you are going to couple/uncouple that's a whole subject in itself. The Atlas uncoupler can be made to work REALLY well with the right approach (location, wiring and RS choice). Otherwise it's frustrating and you can easily overheat and kill em. I think I have at least 3 dead ones.

Also what do you need to make the uncouplers work really well?  What approach is best?

 

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