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I have a Lionel KW transformer that works great except for the whistle control. The rollers and cord were replaced before I bought it, but the whistle rectifier is original. It works fine with electronic horns when moving the handle to the first "stage". At the second stage, the horn cuts out, voltage increases and it will occasionally interrupt track power. It doesn't blow air whistles at all, or VERY weakly. Does this sound like a rectifier that's gone bad, or dirty contacts on the switch? I've not yet opened up the case, and I'm considering replacing the rectifier as a preventive measure...

My other question is- should I replace it with an original rectifier, or a diode?

Thanks!!
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Hi Mike,

 

Although I"m not a regular poster on this forum, I have learned a lot from the knowledgable train enthusiaststhat post here and have been in this hobby for many years. This issue was addressed in past posts and if you do a search for "zener diodes" you"ll be able to gain some very useful knowledge. My suggestion is to replace the original rectifier disc with a zener diode from Newarkelectronics.com. The zener diode works great with all postwar and modern tmcc and legacy steam and diesel whistles. The original rectifier disc does not work well with modern tmcc and legacy whistles and horns.The zener diode part number is 1N3311B. I replaced the original rectifier discs in two ZW's and a KW transformer and I'm very pleased with the results. If you need installation instructions, please let me know.  

 

Bill

Fixing the rectifier only gives you a whistle. Not useful if you run modern stuff and want a bell. You can just make an external bell/whistle controller and forget the rectifier in the KW,  described here

 

www.jcstudiosinc.com/BlogShowT...=412&categoryId=

 

can be automated described here,with a pic of the diodes used and mounted

 

www.jcstudiosinc.com/OGaugeAut...AndWhistleController

 

Dale H

I agree that it is better to build your own external ones. The ones from Lionel use about 20 gauge wire. You can build them more robust than that.

As for how you wire the external box, you can have the diodes normally in circuit and take them out of the circuit when you push the button. For me, this always speeds up the trains as it appears to me that I am adding 3.5 volts or so back into the circuit. If I wire them so that the diodes are normally out of the circuit and I add them in when the button is pushed, it seems that I am removing 3.5 V or so and the trains slow down. I chose the slow the trains down approach as there are places on my layout that I don't want to speed up the trains.

I have also wondered about the external xener diode approach. These diodes seem to get high marks for not affecting train speed. I would love to see an external approach using these.

Denny

The Zener diodes are used in the transformer in conjunction with the boost winding in the PW transformer, they're not a real solution to this issue.

 

I'm guessing with a bit more work you could build a box that minimized the speed change while still imparting a DC offset to the track, I never spent much time trying to do that.

 

Switching them in is pretty easy, just wire the switch to the NC contacts instead of the NO contacts.  When you push the button, it'll insert the diodes into the line.  For the box I pictures above, that would involved moving one wire on each switch to the opposite side.  You'd still have the speed change, but it would tend to slow it down and not speed it up.

 

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