Hello,
Can anyone please tell me where i can get fuses for the cord ( 12893 ) that connects the transformer to the powermaster? I have tried my local car parts stores and had no luck.
Thanks and have a great night..
David
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Hello,
Can anyone please tell me where i can get fuses for the cord ( 12893 ) that connects the transformer to the powermaster? I have tried my local car parts stores and had no luck.
Thanks and have a great night..
David
Replies sorted oldest to newest
I bought some a few months ago, on line, but I purchased them on my wife’s email account, which I will not have access to till I get home from work tomorrow.
When I get home I can post the info.
I did a google search to find them but I can’t remember the source right now.
Fuse, not fuze.
@David S posted:Can anyone please tell me where i can get fuzes for the cord ( 12893 ) that connects the transformer to the powermaster? I have tried my local car parts stores and had no luck.
I had a look at mine last night hoping to answer your question. They're 5mm x 20mm 8A 250V glass fuses. Even with a magnifying glass I can't tell what the other markings say that would indicate the time delay. Just looking at the filament, it EDIT [looks like it could be a medium (or maybe slow blow), both just speculation].
Here's a pic of the actual original fuse from the 6-12893 Power Adapter Cable, purchased 2021 (which coincidentally doesn't show up on Lionel's parts site)
Maybe @gunrunnerjohn knows?
I ordered mine through Amazon.
model F1OAL250V
size 5x20mm
glass fuse tube
pack of 10 fast blow
$6.99
order prime arrive by Friday
Jeff
Thank you everyone that responded back. Jeff2035 I will look into amazon.
Thanks again,
David
I appreciate the recommendation from @Jeff2035 on the fast blow option. That will certainly provide overload protection. Since the original appears [EDIT like it may] have a longer delay time than a fast blow (bigger filament), something comparable is what I'd prefer to buy if the original is designed not to open during short minor overload periods that the Powermaster [EDIT could be] designed to handle with the original longer delay fuse.
I spoke to Aaron at Lionel. In addition to the originals they have on back order, I asked if he would try to find out what the specs are on it, so that replacements could be purchased through third party suppliers. He said he would ask the head of their Products division and send me an email with the most recent fuse info.
I will update this thread when I get an answer.
Thanks SteveH for this information. I would love to know also.
FWIW, slow blow fuses have coiled elements, not just a straight fuseable link. To my way of thinking, this is not a slow-blow fuse.
Here's a typical slow-blow fuse in the 5-10A range.
Thank you John for your response. Very helpful.
David
Aaron from Lionel left me a voicemail re Director of Productions' Fuse spec. for the 6-12893 Power Adapter Cable:
5mm x 20mm 7.5Amp 250VAC Medium time Delay glass cartridge fuse
In addition to Lionel's current back order status on the fuse, their recommended retailer (Circuit Specialists) does not have the provided Part # (MSC-7.5A) at present (I looked on their website first then called, they even checked their "other warehouse"). I also confirmed with them that Part# has Lionel's specs.
I've spent more time than I'd prefer trying to find a fuse with these exact specs elsewhere online and no luck. There are some that are close (but not close enough for me to want to recommend) currently in stock at Digi-Key.
I've just ordered fast acting (not instant) 7.5A re-settable circuit breakers to use instead of fuses.
Sensata / AIRPAX PP11-1-7.50A-OC-V
https://www.onlinecomponents.c...50aocv-10090714.html
They might trip a little faster than a medium time delay fuse, but then it would be just a matter of eliminating the source of the overload and pressing the reset button.
Hope this helps, SteveH
They won't be super fast to trip, probably about right.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:They won't be super fast to trip, probably about right.
Trip Time: 0.1s to 2 s
John, Thanks for the confirmation on that.
SteveH,
When you are done with installing them could you please provide pictures ? I would love to know how you do it so I might be able to also install them.
Thanks,
David
@David S The connections are fairly straight forward. The only significant difference to connecting this breaker in place of the fuse, is to note the In and Out labelled on the breaker.
To make the connections, I'd run 18 gauge (min) stranded wire from Transformer Hot terminal to the Breaker In. Then, cut off the male part of the PowerMaster cord's fuse holder and connect to the breaker Out.
Soldering the connections is best. If you'd prefer, you can use standard 1/4" female spade connectors.
P.S. The breaker in these pictures has the same case and connections and is made by the same Mfg, but has different trip values for another application. They took about a week (UPS Ground AZ to NC) to arrive after ordering from OnlineComponents.com
@SteveH posted:The only significant difference to connecting this breaker in place of the fuse, is to note the In and Out labelled on the breaker.
There is no difference for our use. Connect either way.
@ADCX Rob I'm not questioning the validity of your assertion that these breakers can be connected either way. For educational purposes, will you please explain why these breakers are marked with the arrows next to their terminals or point to a recommended resource for further reading?
@SteveH posted:For educational purposes, will you please explain why these breakers are marked with the arrows next to their terminals or point to a recommended resource for further reading?
Orientation of the button when marked with an amperage notation must be specified when using the fourth decision table from the specifications. It has to do with orientation in a panel mount situation. Especially with our AC current, it doesn't make a lick of difference with the push-pull type. More critical for toggle/lever/rocker installations, but the orientation still doesn't change the electrical properties or operation.
Thanks SteveH for your pictures. I think I will go this route and see what happens. I might also try to upgrade to the TPC 300 and take the powermaster out all together.
Thanks again for all your help.
David
@David S posted:Thanks SteveH for your pictures. I think I will go this route and see what happens. I might also try to upgrade to the TPC 300 and take the powermaster out all together.
Thanks again for all your help.
David
The breaker mentioned above is a good match for the 135/180 Watt Legacy Powermaster. Someone more familiar with the TPC300 than me might be able to recommend an appropriate Airpax breaker for it.
I'm definitely going to look into the breaker. I really appreciate your help.
David
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