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So I have started my final steps to finishing my first clean and paint of a very ugly old locomotive.

I just finished the motor and pendulum eunit cleaning and wire replacement and I was wondering if anyone has tried installing a electronic eunit in this type of locomotive.

I acquired 6 units and plan on customizing some of them with barrel eunits, keep the pendulum eunits and try a electronic eunit.

Here is before video of the first unit I’m cleaning and painting

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Videos (1)
Flat black before clean and paint
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Simple diagrams of eunit wiring  Basic wire for eunits and manual switch Basic wire for pendulum eunit this not actually how mine was wired. the two post for lights were not circuited to the internals of the unit (dead ends) and there was no explanation on the grounding of the actuator windings.  I am going to make a diagram and post after I do another locomotive to see if there is a difference between model years.

more to come.

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Images (10)
  • Basic wire for eunits and manual switch
  • Basic wire for pendulum eunit
  • EBB715CF-EC8B-43AC-8ADB-DE30DBCCDD74: Breakdown
  • 4D9E78B0-0786-4E92-98E8-C0D92E249F28: Switch
  • AC0CEC83-02B0-4FFE-9F08-2EB1B054A7DE: Broken wire on actuator coil
  • 9609B3ED-41EF-4534-9486-F4C70D9EEC4F: Attaching new extension wire to coil
  • 52987190-7A11-40D1-92B4-8DC17FABB8E3: Connecting actuator ground to ground contact
  • 5EBCBFDF-F454-45ED-8FDD-88676A300959: Mounted and wiring in
  • BBD7DF12-7B02-429B-9B0A-FC644503F148: Ready for testing
  • E5C6F6A6-BA77-4B6E-9C8D-C01094D50B7F: Full wire with lights

Striping the old paint off the 260T 96D48EF7-A82D-439C-BABB-48D63EF2F0CB

had time so I stripped off two 600 series passenger cars 18D21E6C-F60D-40D3-916B-68BE6629AFB2

Cleaning off and removing the dents of the cars I use a wooden dowel to rub out small dents 18D21E6C-F60D-40D3-916B-68BE6629AFB2

rubbing out dents with dowelE6A6D06E-8537-4A05-ABC1-144A5E918481

so that ends my weekend with trains have family and honey dews.
Hope everyone is enjoying their holiday and keep those veterans who have sacrificed all so we can enjoy our freedoms.

God bless all veterans and their families.

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  • 96D48EF7-A82D-439C-BABB-48D63EF2F0CB: 260T
  • 01DE221B-1FBE-4D41-8A58-45D5755E4BD5: 606 and 605 cars
  • 18D21E6C-F60D-40D3-916B-68BE6629AFB2: Steelwool and dent removal
  • 1377E010-B030-4D73-BBA7-C74AEA82BBEF
  • 66941669-597A-4E89-BF6A-2F69109AC53B
  • E6A6D06E-8537-4A05-ABC1-144A5E918481: Dent removal

Cars are finished I just have to apply car polish and install windows.

The 710 cars were not restored they are new MTH cars. The other cars were, they were rusty, dented and in need of restoring.

Next photos will be the finished 260e. Taking me longer to finish because I’m on the fence about the reverse unit. should I keep it stock or upgrade ?

D3229667-C062-42F8-85F0-6F5912EC1F508335844B-65BD-4DDA-884D-9DDFE1BB547D035DDDA1-0E64-423C-9133-17F0E7E39B7FE41A297F-85C5-416C-86D0-1355065BF2D52AC3B017-EFDD-4FA3-9DD1-844D4FAAA3056572C38A-B3CE-4BDC-82B1-DF9CF83F4A33

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  • D3229667-C062-42F8-85F0-6F5912EC1F50
  • 8335844B-65BD-4DDA-884D-9DDFE1BB547D
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  • 2AC3B017-EFDD-4FA3-9DD1-844D4FAAA305
  • 6572C38A-B3CE-4BDC-82B1-DF9CF83F4A33
Last edited by Michael Roth

Looking good Michael!

I'm curious about your process for painting the cars.  I assume you used a primer then a glossy topcoat.  Would you be willing to share which brand of paint you used (both primer and finish coat)?  How many coats? Drying time, etc.  Inquiring minds want to know!

John

best primer i have found is thick and helps make a great base

Best for Heavy Pitted Metal for White for Black All other colors love the dial spray heads

only the primer, white and black cover in one coat. Red and Blues dry the fastest. Yellow, orange and green take a week to fully dry.  Yellow and Orange take three to four coats. I have tried white colored primers however when i second coat i have problems with paint bubbling and softening the primer layer. Orange and Yellow never work on bare metal and like to run.

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  • mceclip0
  • mceclip1
  • mceclip2
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Update on 260e locomotive: I have not finished the re-nickeling of the cross head and rods, I’ll show the process this weekend. However I am going to start the next train tear down this weekend. I have attached a photo of the tender and my paint choice. 0429A56B-34EC-42A2-8F3A-27087883F49112CFC8D8-3436-4A07-9070-FDDED58B4A92Next unit for overhaul, This locomotive has been repainted several times and has had the wiring redone (If you look close you can see an exposed wire by the air pumps between the frame and boiler body) I’ll find out what’s it’s for at takedown and post photos.

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Images (2)
  • 0429A56B-34EC-42A2-8F3A-27087883F491: Tender base coated along side the MTH Blue Comet
  • 12CFC8D8-3436-4A07-9070-FDDED58B4A92: Next Unit 260e non-running with a lot of rust

Up next 710 cars to match custom 260e. These will need a lot of help I’m going to have to wire weld new metal to the rusted parts. I am going to try and reuse as much as possible and only replace missing items. ADCA45DF-3FFD-4842-B3D3-2562223D4CEA7AB44779-179A-4EAF-9F3D-F617291BD86B7F423EAA-320A-4952-ADD6-A1555A24D1AC7AB44779-179A-4EAF-9F3D-F617291BD86B757EA9FC-2A66-409B-8573-80C2C36C010C0EEF4C85-B726-43E8-A01F-FD6D364803EDFC2EC380-8930-47B7-90B7-A80ECDC60175I will try and re nickel all the wheels and axles. I am going to use my wire welder to try and close up all the rust through areas. I may cut the rusted end off the 710 car and make a observation car out of it. I have removed the paint and found a lot of rust holes. Wish me luck

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  • ADCA45DF-3FFD-4842-B3D3-2562223D4CEA
  • 7AB44779-179A-4EAF-9F3D-F617291BD86B
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  • 0EEF4C85-B726-43E8-A01F-FD6D364803ED
  • 173B7488-0D07-4404-9AB4-3D2260287076
  • FC2EC380-8930-47B7-90B7-A80ECDC60175

Just finished the 261E with the electronic e-unit and special thanks to ADCX Rob for all the links and advice on choosing an e-units 84EEA7E9-EAA7-47EF-A0BC-AA018321A39C111F6EB9-0EFC-4C1B-8C3D-675AA0702B26



now on to finishing my train I named SeaFoam

im going to make this non traditional also. Plans for a smoker unit, electronic eunit and sound .

7B0B7588-2882-4AB8-8C51-B16C3444373DE5E4809A-C482-40E4-A133-EDCD036A4631hope everyone had a great 4th and a continued weekend

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  • E5E4809A-C482-40E4-A133-EDCD036A4631

@Michael Roth

this looks amazing!  I haven't been on the forum much so I am sorry I missed your thread until now.  Great work!  I wish I had the time and energy to do these types of projects. 

for the paint stripping, were you doing all mechanical scrubbing with steel wool or did you you use chemical or other methods like sand blasting?

I am quite interested to see your plating process.



Keep up the awesome work

I used oven cleaner and CLR to remove the paint and rust. I than used a wire wheel to scale off all the bits that didn’t  come off in the cleaning process. I than used sandpaper and steel wool to prep the metal for JB-weld and primer. After the JB-weld hardened I sanded down the piece and applied another coat of primer. Than final two coats of paint. The surface is not perfect in any means however, they are in a lot better shape than when I started. 25CF3974-4F2E-4FEA-9CBF-29AF90EDD53F
I skinned one of the door with tinfoil and JB-weld. The door was over 60% rusted through. I try and reuse every part possible. I have add two sets of missing wheels but that’s all I added. The brass steps are still soaking in dish soap and lime juice. Almost ready to brasso with q-tips and an old dish rag. Once they are done I’ll install and post a picture.

next loco is a 262 I’m going to repaint to a Christmas green frame, red boiler and gold cab roof. Christmas train of sorts.

I’ll take a lot of photos of my plating attempt and post the results. I’m going to try copper on the wheels of the 262. Silver Nickel on the 260e wheels.

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Images (1)
  • 25CF3974-4F2E-4FEA-9CBF-29AF90EDD53F
Last edited by Michael Roth

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