I just converted this diner car to LEDs. The lights however just blink for a second when power is applied and then shut off. I just wired them directly to the output for the original lights. Any help is appreciated. I did try reprogramming the car and there was no change. The lights do flash when reset is pressed and they do flash when using 9 to turn them on with TMCC.
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Swap the polarity, the TMCC output is positive ground for it's lighting drive.
gunrunnerjohn posted:Swap the polarity, the TMCC output is positive ground for it's lighting drive.
Will do. Btw, do I still need to give the LEDs DC electronics (like your board) or do the sound electronics provide DC power to the lights?
A diode is a useful addition, just to protect against reverse polarity. That happens if the TMCC drops to conventional mode, then the lighting outputs are full-wave AC.
gunrunnerjohn posted:A diode is a useful addition, just to protect against reverse polarity. That happens if the TMCC drops to conventional mode, then the lighting outputs are full-wave AC.
Alright. Any specific diode I should get? I found a 50 pack of 1N4001s for $4.88
No lights even after swapping the wires.
How are the lights powered?
gunrunnerjohn posted:How are the lights powered?
Not sure, I just used the factory plug and spliced the wires for the LEDs in where the original bulbs were.
Just made this simple problem worse. I accidentally bent the pins for the RS power board. Great. Now I probably need a new board. Can I run just the lights for now. I removed the power board and sound card. Just the R2LC is in it now.
It's dirt simple to bend those back straight, I don't see the problem. If I threw away every motherboard that had bent pins, I'd throw away all the TAS stuff I've ever worked on!
You need to trace the lighting wiring to see where they're connected and how they're powered. Without that information, it's really hard to help you.
gunrunnerjohn posted:It's dirt simple to bend those back straight, I don't see the problem. If I threw away every motherboard that had bent pins, I'd throw away all the TAS stuff I've ever worked on!
You need to trace the lighting wiring to see where they're connected and how they're powered. Without that information, it's really hard to help you.
I'll get on it and report back. Just wanted to be sure if I could rebend the pins or not.
Rebent the pins. That's fixed. For the lights, the hot lead goes to the board, the ground goes to the truck for power.
Did you use an ohmmeter to see where the hot lead connects?
gunrunnerjohn posted:Did you use an ohmmeter to see where the hot lead connects?
Yes. And plus I can see where it connects.
So, where does it connect to after it hits that connector? Does it to to an R2LC pin? That's what the ohmmeter was for!
gunrunnerjohn posted:So, where does it connect to after it hits that connector? Does it to to an R2LC pin? That's what the ohmmeter was for!
My bad. Its goes to where the yellow circles are. No connection to the R2LC.
This is like pulling teeth! OK, where does that connector go? What was connected to that pin? Obviously, some sort of power comes from somewhere for the lights! Did you check ALL the board pins and all the connector pins?
On the SS motherboard I do have here, the lights are powered from track power. They connect to the motherboard and that connects to track power. So, check track power continuity to the light connection. Again, they HAVE to have power coming from somewhere!
gunrunnerjohn posted:This is like pulling teeth! OK, where does that connector go? What was connected to that pin? Obviously, some sort of power comes from somewhere for the lights! Did you check ALL the board pins and all the connector pins?
On the SS motherboard I do have here, the lights are powered from track power. They connect to the motherboard and that connects to track power. So, check track power continuity to the light connection. Again, they HAVE to have power coming from somewhere!
Made a mistake in my earlier comment. I tested the wrong board, the hot for the lights goes to the R2LC. It goes to pins 5&6.
OK, now were getting somewhere! Try turning smoke on with the + key on Legacy or AUX1/9 on a CAB1 or CAB1L. Note also that the smoke output is positive in respect to frame ground, not like headlight outputs that are negative. You also have to program the board properly, after setting the TMCC ID in PGM mode, AUX1/6 to set the correct operating mode. Switch to run and then you can turn the lights on/off with AUX1/8 and AUX1/9.
See how easy that is when you give the correct data? 
gunrunnerjohn posted:OK, now were getting somewhere! Try turning smoke on with the + key on Legacy or AUX1/9 on a CAB1 or CAB1L. Note also that the smoke output is positive in respect to frame ground, not like headlight outputs that are negative. You also have to program the board properly, after setting the TMCC ID in PGM mode, AUX1/6 to set the correct operating mode. Switch to run and then you can turn the lights on/off with AUX1/8 and AUX1/9.
See how easy that is when you give the correct data?
Yes, it sure is easy 
I reprogrammed the board using AUX1/6 but the lights still won't turn on using the Cab1 remote.
Now you have to check if the polarity is correct on the LED's. If so, one more thing you need, a load capacitor to fire the triac. A .01uf ceramic capacitor connected across the lighting feed is required for LED's on the light or smoke outputs to provide a load for the triac.
gunrunnerjohn posted:Now you have to check if the polarity is correct on the LED's. If so, one more thing you need, a load capacitor to fire the triac. A .01uf ceramic capacitor connected across the lighting feed is required for LED's on the light or smoke outputs to provide a load for the triac.
I've got the +12v connected to the hot lead and the minus to the ground. Where can I get the capacitors? Digikey?
First, try an incandescent bulb across the leads from the lighting output, it should like with no help. If it does, then go for the cap and the LED's.
Digikey has them: CAP CER 10000PF 50V X7R RADIAL
gunrunnerjohn posted:First, try an incandescent bulb across the leads from the lighting output, it should like with no help. If it does, then go for the cap and the LED's.
Digikey has them: CAP CER 10000PF 50V X7R RADIAL
The bulb doesn't light. I used the bulb from the original light board on the car so I know it works. I also connected the lighting output wires and there was no short. Could there be something wrong with the output? I'll get the caps for the LEDs.
If the bulb doesn't light, my guess is the smoke triac was blown by shorting to the frame at some point. It's can be replaced.
gunrunnerjohn posted:If the bulb doesn't light, my guess is the smoke triac was blown by shorting to the frame at some point. It's can be replaced.
Alright. I have a spare R2LC I use for now. What parts do I need to fix the broken R2LC?
The smoke triac, it's the large one on the end of the row.
gunrunnerjohn posted:The smoke triac, it's the large one on the end of the row.
Cool. Where can I buy a new one?
Can I get the other part number at digikey too? I've got a few legacy engines (with R4LCs) that the couplers won't throw.
Well, the MAC97A6 and MAC97A8 have been declared obsolete, which is why you have to scrounge around to find them nowadays. Here's some at Arrow: MAC97A8 at Arrow Electronics.
Looks like they also have the smoke triac: https://www.arrow.com/en/products/2n6075bg/littelfuse
gunrunnerjohn posted:Well, the MAC97A6 and MAC97A8 have been declared obsolete, which is why you have to scrounge around to find them nowadays. Here's some at Arrow: MAC97A8 at Arrow Electronics.
Looks like they also have the smoke triac: https://www.arrow.com/en/products/2n6075bg/littelfuse
Alright thanks. I should probably get a bunch then?
Could be, last time I found them on eBay, I got a hundred of the MAC97A8 parts, still have lots of those.
gunrunnerjohn posted:Could be, last time I found them on eBay, I got a hundred of the MAC97A8 parts, still have lots of those.
Cool. Well, I have some ordering to do. I'll report back after I get this car all wrapped up. Thanks for the help.
Ebay has a hundred of them new parts for $3.49 with free shipping...China
That's probably the deal I got, I remember they were dirt cheap. Since I use them pretty regularly, I just grabbed a batch.
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