Lionel Union Pacific Steam 6-28034 Noise Problem

I went to the Lionel Parts page and entered "4-6-2 Pacific", a ton of models come up.  You might try that and see if you find one that's close.

Just a quick tip that you may want to retitle your post to "Noise problem with . . . ". That should get you more responses.

Tracking down noise in a steamer can be a bear as there are mutiple moving pieces. I spent weeks on and off a while back ago trying track down a squeak on a 4-6-4 Hudson. In addition to the wheel drive links you should check the front and back wheel sets and pivots. Also the tender trucks and wheels. Inside the engine something could be rubbing against the flywheel. Maybe someone else can provide guidance on bearings but I would think that bearing noise would increase at higher speeds rather than go away.

S

If you've lubed the obvious areas, also ckeck the pickup rollers, these can make strange noises as well.

 Given the age of the loco and the fact it has been used it certainly wouldn't hurt to remove the shell and oil the motor shaft bearings.

I've had a brand new loco that had motor shaft bearings that squealed at low speeds. A couple drops of labelle and problem solved.

If it doesn't havea grease screw for the gears on the bottom you may want to get grease in the from the top when you have the shell off.

Thanks everyone.  Not resolved yet.... Thanks John.  I did see an Erie Locomotive with what looks like the same tender. 

THese are the famous 8000 series or 28000 series.  Some one said these were part of the law suit engines.  I can tell you I have 3 of these engines, and back when I got them, the parts were on the web, but they have since been removed.

There were Hudsons and Pacifics and they are effectively the same, except for the trail truck. 

The motor is very similar to the MTH style motor.  I would do as Rick states and oil bearings and also drive gears.

You can try the 6-28065 for parts.  The 8000 series wiring diagram is correct for how they are wired.   G

I think I resolved the noise problem.  The noise (for the most part) has disappeared after careful lubrication with Labelle to each wheel.  I disassembled the gear housing, which contained grease.  I spread the grease around the worm gear (it seemed like it was just sitting off to the side, and added a couple of drops of Labelle sparingly). 

I have a 2008 Boston and Maine (6- 38641), which from the outside looks identical to the 2001 Union Pacific.  Outside the logo, it looks the same, but the two perform differently.  The Boston and Maine is very smooth, and speed consistant, whereas the Union Pacific struggles to maintain a constant speed, especially on upgrades.  Any ideas what to do to get it to smooth out.  Both have momentum flywheels.  Could the boards be different.  Would it be worth it to purchase a TrainMaster Command Control (upgrade 6-22960)They look similar. 2001 versus 2008.... Could they be different?  No Odessey on either.  Hmmm?

That upgrade will do nothing for you, you already have it.

The ERR Cruise Commander M is a worthwhile upgrade for that locomotive, it's better cruise control than the original Odyssey I units.

Thanks John,

I will consider upgrading with the ERR Cruise commander M.  Do I need anything else to do the upgrade?

You need to check your R2LC code.  The 2000 vintage engine of this series had the C07 R2LC which may not work.

I just added cruise to my NYC Hudson of this vintage.  G

I ran across this once, and I got Ken at ERR to reprogram it for C08.

How do I know if it is a C07 or C08?  Does it say on the R2LC somewhere?

I ordered the CCM kit today.

Usually there is a white sticker on top of one of the chips that will state if it is C07 or C08 code.

-John

Wow.. Thanks for the quick response.

Ok.... I received the ERR Cruise Commander M kit.  I opened up my locomotive and did not find any kind of sticker letting me know if it is a C07 or C08 code R2LC.  However, on the R2LC I notice a stamp or film right on the R2LC.  If I am reading this right I may be golden and have the C08 code.  Attached are pics.  Can someone come back and confirm?  Thanks a bunch... Brian

The R2LC perched on top next to the motor has it on the other side, you have to remove the board to check it.

I removed the R2LC and yes it is a C08....  Now, I will dive into installing for the first time the CCM.  Hopefully, I won't have to move anything around.  Thanks for your help everyone.  It would be nice if there was a youtube on this subject.  I could not find one.  It may simpler than I think.

It's pretty simple.

Wow.... Thanks John.  I will dive into this after work tonight and keep you posted.  Thanks again..

You have one of the very simple jobs, since it's not an Odyssey rig.  Typically, it takes me about 15 minutes on the bench to do that conversion.

The only issue I've ever run across is with certain models the Cruise Commander board being 1/8" longer than the DCDR creates a fit issue.  In one extreme case, I had to elongate the holes in the heatsink to move it back just a bit to fit.  However, in most cases, there's room and it just drops in.

You should use the heatsink thermal compound on the new CCM, clean the old stuff off with Isopropyl Alcohol.

John,

After the work is complete, Will the engine need to be reprogrammed?  I would assume no re-programming is required. 

Yep, look at the CCM instructions, they have the codes, pretty standard. 

Steam with RailSounds is AUX1-4 after you set the engine ID, this is done in program mode.

After the upgrade, you can also program it for 100 step mode, makes for great low speed performance.

I would like to commend John on his experience and knowledge on helping me with my CCM install to my Lionel Union Pacific Steam 6-28034.  His instruction was perfect, and I can't thank you enough.  Your addition of captions numbered to my pictures was so helpful, and a great teaching aid.  I now feel much more comfortable doing upgrades as needed.

I am thoroughly amazed how the engine now performs after adding the CCM board. So smooth and consistant, even up and down upgrade and downgrades.  This will be a standard for my older engines I acquire.  For those of you questioning if you should go forward on making the purchase for the CCM boards, I would highly recommend doing the install, after investigation based on your engine situation.  Thanks again John!!! 

John,

Just a quick question.  Where can I find, or perhaps a quick advise, as to programming the engine for the various program speed steps (32 versus 100)?  I did not notice any direction from the instructions on the CCM install.  Not sure on my Legacy remote on how to axis this.   Thanks in advance...  Brian

Glad it all worked out.  I don't think I have any modular TMCC stuff that hasn't gotten a Cruise Commander M, it's such an easy upgrade and really does enhance the performance.

Keep looking the speed step programming is in the manual.  It's done in RUN mode, not PGM mode.

100 - step Mode: AUX1, 0, AUX1, 0, BOOST

32 - step Mode: AUX1, 0, AUX1, 0, BRAKE

Look on page 16 of your manual the directions are there. The ones John posted are for the Cruise Commander.

Bill

Oops Bill, you're right!

Activate 32-Speed Steps: AUX1 + DIR + AUX1 + DIR + BRAKE
Activate 100-Speed Steps: AUX1 + DIR + AUX1 + DIR + BOOST

I'm not sure why they made them different for the two products!  I've been working with the Cruise Commander lately...

Thanks John and Bill.  Bill, I will keep you in mind for my future purchases.