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Lowering MTH (& early Lionel?) PAs

C CentralFan1976OGR Forum Member
Ok, kids...

Let's start this all over again. This time, we're lowering a 1st generation MTH Premier PA-1 with Protosounds 1.   I actually started with the non-powered A unit first, and it's going to be really simple.

I started with some research, and from the drawing I found, the height off the rails to the top of the pilot is 4' (1" in O), and 14' to the top of the car body (3.5" in O). This puts the top of the pilot at the right height, but the car body is a little tall in the saddle. In fact, bring the frame down to the top of the pilot will put everything at the right height. It's going to take some machining for this unit, off the top of the truck, and we'll see what we have to for the powered A.

Thanks,
Mario

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Last edited by CentralFan1976
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C CentralFan1976OGR Forum Member
This is actually going to be A LOT easier than I thought because those holes in the pilot are already tapped in the frame for 2-56 screws. And after chasing out the threads the pilot mounts right up.

I'm going to create a coupler shim that uses these holes and will mount the coupler at the correct height. I'm also to use the same coupler shim, albeit thinner, once I figure out how to lower the frame.

Here's some shots...

imageimageimage

Thanks,
Mario
C CentralFan1976OGR Forum Member

It's pretty easy for the non powered unit, as the truck bolster is a ~1" diameter rod, and the kingpin just screws in from the top.  So I just took off the truck and had the guys in our machine shop shave off 0.175" (which they ended taking off a little more, so I had to put a fender washer to build it back up).

 

I see from on the powered unit that the frame sits on two square pieces, on either side of the motor mount, on top of the truck.  So with this, I'm going to take the Dremel and notch out those blocks and allow the frame to sit lower.  I'm going to watch the top of the fly wheels very closely, as I don't want to lower it too much that it hits the roof.

 

But, since the powered unit will actually become a FM Erie-Built, whose car body roof sits at 15' above the rail head (as opposed to the ALCo's 14'), this should theoretically give me an 1/4" to play with...

 

But I'm not doing anything until I get the FM body shell, as it is also 1 scale foot shorter than the PA, at least in the real world... so I'll have to see what modifications I'll have to make to the frame and electronics before I modify the stance.

 

I'll be opening up the Lionel PAs soon, as well.

 

Thanks,

Mario

C CentralFan1976OGR Forum Member
Originally Posted by bob2:

That plastic PA shell is, as far as I can tell, just about the most accurate in O Scale.  The one flaw is that anti-climber.  I believe it should be lower, as in on the pilot instead of on the carbody.

Thanks Bob.

 

Would you believethat its from 1994? MTH 20-2018-1... the Challenger catalog.

 

Time to start on the powered unit.

 

Thanks,

Mario

C CentralFan1976OGR Forum Member

So I ended up doing the coupler cover...

A1E262C8-04D1-4510-B24C-192D5004C859

it was just easier. 

Since then, we’ve run at the show and the sounds just aren’t up to my standards, even with the Tang Band Speaker in the non-powered unit.

Therefore, ERR Cruise and Railsounds commanders are in their way!

As well as Marty’s (Scale City Designs) FA cab interiors. 

Stay tuned!

thanks,

Mario

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B BobbyDOGR Forum Member DIGITAL SUBSCRIBER
CentralFan1976 posted:
joe krasko posted:

Guys....great info,i'am doing it with my Lionel PA's...one question..which KDEE coupler to use?...thanks for the info...joe

I like the #740s, they look great. 

On some I also like to use Protocraft on the fronts of units.

371089B7-BAAA-4F8F-8F59-F76CAA0758D8

Here’s the cover on the Lionel pilot:

BDB3DAA5-B23F-4D88-B7B3-863777EC06A3

thanks!

-Mario

Are the F unit coupler doors yours Mario? Can we get both the F and PA doors now?

C CentralFan1976OGR Forum Member
BobbyD posted:
CentralFan1976 posted:
joe krasko posted:

Guys....great info,i'am doing it with my Lionel PA's...one question..which KDEE coupler to use?...thanks for the info...joe

I like the #740s, they look great. 

On some I also like to use Protocraft on the fronts of units.

371089B7-BAAA-4F8F-8F59-F76CAA0758D8

Here’s the cover on the Lionel pilot:

BDB3DAA5-B23F-4D88-B7B3-863777EC06A3

thanks!

-Mario

Are the F unit coupler doors yours Mario? Can we get both the F and PA doors now?

Hi @BobbyD!

The F unit pilot doors are the P&D Hobby passenger pilot doors, cut in half. 

The PA ones aren’t quite ready yet. 

Thanks,

Mario

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