Menards UFO Scene Repaint. (More pics p2)

Looks good, Pete! And, next to Oak Point! lol

Rusty

Nice finish choice, Pete. Definitely realistic.
Whose brand rattle can spray paint did you use? Please let us know the paint code number and color name. Thanks for the assistance. Much appreciated

Its called Brushed Metallic Satin Nickel, a Krylon product.   My whole alien invasion fleet is painted in this color!  😝

Heres a pic...the paint goes on very smoothly.....

-Pete

 

You did a fine job.

Much more prototypical on the saucer.    They did sort of miss the metalic sheen on the alien eyes, but a little opalecent paint would probably fix that.

Waaay better! 👽

Got mine today. It will get a coat of Tamiya silver.

Steve

At At at

Looks great! Which silver would be close and leave no finger prints? (Have a lot of old guys over that will be touching:-)

So much better! Really looks great.

Btw, how is the operation? everything work smoothly as intended?

BFI66 posted:

---

Received my Menards UFO Scene today.....gotta say It is pretty cool and fits in well with my UFO themed layout. The pad printed slogans on the saucer left me less than enthused.......
I tried some other techniques to remove the lettering but to no avail......so some taping.....some primer and some metallic paint.....Voila!

-Pete

You did a fine job on the UFO, BF.  And extra points for the correct spelling of "Voila!"

Everyone to their own tastes, of course, but in my own opinion, UFO scenes work better as standalone dioramas.  I just can't get used to the sight of a flying saucer and a NYC Hudson in the same frame.

NICE PETE!!!!!  U DA MAN!!!

johnstrains posted:

So much better! Really looks great.

Btw, how is the operation? everything work smoothly as intended?

So far so good.....mine works well 🤞🤞🤞

Just got mine and it works perfect!  Now I just need to loose the lettering. 

Pete

Nice job.

Received mine yesterday and definitely agree the lettering has got to go.

A quick question please.

Did you take it apart to tape and spray paint?

Thanks

Larry

Grampstrains posted:

Railgon posted:

Much more prototypical on the saucer.    They did sort of miss the metalic sheen on the alien eyes, but a little opalecent paint would probably fix that.

More prototypical?  Just how do you know what prototypical is?

He has seen them?

Larry Sr. posted:

Pete

Nice job.

Received mine yesterday and definitely agree the lettering has got to go.

A quick question please.

Did you take it apart to tape and spray paint?

Thanks

Larry

Hi Larry....really did not see a way to take it apart without screwing up the led lights on the saucer......so I carefully taped it with blue painters tape and added paper towels to cover the diorama so as not to get overspray on the building and trees.  Really did not take that long to do.

-Pete

hello

did you paint just the top half or the hole thing please walk us through as to how you taped it up mine due in tomorrow and want to get rid of the lettering

thank you

kevin

I’m not going to try and take it apart I don’t want to mess up the LED’s. I’ll take pictures of mine when I have it done. 

Ok, guys, was on the fence on this one but reading here I'm convinced so an order goes in! It's such a unique offering and adds some fun to the layout.

Will watch progress of others as I also want to do the spray job on that lettering.

Chris Lonero posted:

I’m not going to try and take it apart I don’t want to mess up the LED’s. I’ll take pictures of mine when I have it ready to paint. 

Thanks, Chris......stay away from taking it apart.....the way it is made it is not conducive to separating the saucer halves top from bottom.  I should have taken more pictures but all I did was mask it off and paint.   One word of caution....be careful of painting the led ring around the saucer........I did not want to take the chance of the paint dulling the led effect so I painted the upper portion of the saucer first and masked the lower portion to include the led ring.  If you so choose.....then repeat for the lower half.

-Pete

johnstrains posted:

Ok, guys, was on the fence on this one but reading here I'm convinced so an order goes in! It's such a unique offering and adds some fun to the layout.

Will watch progress of others as I also want to do the spray job on that lettering.

You won’t be sorry it looks even better in person!

BFI66 posted:

Chris Lonero posted:

I’m not going to try and take it apart I don’t want to mess up the LED’s. I’ll take pictures of mine when I have it ready to paint. 

Thanks, Chris......stay away from taking it apart.....the way it is made it is not conducive to separating the saucer halves top from bottom.  I should have taken more pictures but all I did was mask it off and paint.   One word of caution....be careful of painting the led ring around the saucer........I did not want to take the chance of the paint dulling the led effect so I painted the upper portion of the saucer first and masked the lower portion to include the led ring.  If you so choose.....then repeat for the lower half.

-Pete

Pete,so did you paint the lower half and landing supports too or just the saucer's top half? If you did the bottom and landing supports, how did you tape off at the base of the landing supports so the grass wasn't painted by overspray? Also was the cow easily removed for painting? What about the figures near the landing supports, did you remove them? Or, if instead of using the rattle spray can, did you use a paint brush to paint the landing supports and bottom of the saurcer rather than spray them? Can you show us photos of how the saucer's bottom turned out after being painted?

Btw, does anyone have experience with that liquid brush on masking that hobby shops sell? Does it work well and peel off easily afterwards without it being a major chore removing it?

Ogaugeguy.....I am very sorry....I did not take more pictures......the UFO is already on the layout, hooked up and scenery applied......I really did not do anything else magical as I previously explained.  Carefully masking all items on the diorama from overspray is the key.  I have been modelling for a god-awful number of years and alot of this is second nature to me.   If you are painting it silver you really just have to mask the lower half.   If you are uncomfortable with painting the lower half...you really do not have to do it.......it can’t be noticed.  If the saucer struts do not look right to you, they are thin and easily brushed paint or a wash of the same paint on the struts so as to give it a worn look.   There is no right or wrong way....its what looks good to your eye.

-Hope this helps

-Pete

One more question for those that have received their UFO accessory. Curious...is there an on/off switch for this? Or do you just plug/unplug the power supply? Hoping it's the former.

Good question......I did not notice one

-Pete

I didn’t see one either.

Like most of Menards accessory's  , there is no off / on button.. Bob

I would just do the upper half.

I'm sure they have two tone vehicles on Mars as well..........

cabinet Bob posted:

Like most of Menards accessory's  , there is no off / on button.. Bob

Hmm...ok, thanks for the reply. Will have to remedy that.

Probably rig the plug from supply into an outlet that I can control with one of those remote/fob on/off button devices.

"A man asked me for a dollar, I asked him; What's it for? He said, "I have seen them". I said, "Ok it's yours".... Fingerprints are more about ease of removal. The smoother the finish the easier to remove, but they show different too based on the suface sealing which also plays into gloss levels. High glosses clean easy but show smudges & oils sharply. Gloss, semi gloss and satin are next in line, in order and some satins to matte/ flats(most) often have a fuzzy nature that absorbs oils as dark spots that are hard to remove as they have actually penetrated the surface. Some fade as the oil migrates across the surface over time. Similarly, sanding and filler primers are normally more absorbent; porous. Washing hands when handling sanded paint jobs & primers should be as hibitual as a surgeons. So I'd say gloss to satin range. Silver is a hard color to match, but fades and applied masking as a "two tone" along body lines or to create lines and shadows. I.e., it blends nice to near shades, even if it doesnt match exacty.

Got it today it looks great and everything works and agree it should be painted. Should you use a primer if I do. 

Dave

David, I think you should.....I did.....I found that a gray primer will cover the letters completely and make the application of a finish coat smoother.  In the past I found if I hurried a model without primer and the finish was smooth, the finish coat sometimes would drip or have runs.

-Pete

I’m only going to paint the top half of mine but I’ll prime it first. Sometimes that one extra step makes the difference. 

johnstrains posted:

So much better! Really looks great.

Btw, how is the operation? everything work smoothly as intended?

You are asking how it flew?  Or, even more incredulous, are you implying he took a ride in it?

I have got to get this thing!

Thanks Pete for your advice, hope mine comes out as well as yours,

Dave

 

 

Adriatic posted:

At At at

Sorry, don't understand that particular dialect. 

 

That's what I thought, but had noticed "At at" a few times recently.

Serves me right, going along blindly with what "THEY"   🤖👽👾💣    say

To be honest I thought it sounds like Atch or maybe atk. ..   

Ahh... I love discussing the finer points of jibberish