Model Railroad Paints

I have a few OGR Ameri-Towne buildings. I used the acrylic paints available from craft stores for around $1 a bottle. Color selection is almost endless. Got mine from Michaels, but Hobby Lobby, maybe JoAnn's or other craft type stores should have them as well.

I usually prime with a spray can first. gray or rust. then use acrylic paints. I find that doing this helps the paint adhere better. if course if u want a gray or rust color
building, then the spray primer is enough and just takes a minute. you can use a diluted white paint for the mortar lines, just make sure you wipe off the paint from the brick surface before it dries. or use Robert Mortar which you can wipe off anytime after application. the primer is available virtually anywhere. the acrylic paints at any craft store or even a supermarket that has a craft section.
or of course, online. the brands are Ceramcoat, Americana, and a number of others. there are probably a hundred colors.

jerrman

I use Micro mark, Scalecoat and I still have a good supply of Floquil and Polly Scale.  I also use the Craft paints at Michaels for certain colors, I can't get at the Hobby Shop.  

For rolling stock and locomotives, Floquil enamel, Pollyscale and Scalecoat is applied by airbrushing, touchup or spot painting by brush, not heavy pigmented, thin using manufacturer solvent or water based on type of paint.

For buildings, railroad trackside structures and unpainted plastic/metal figures, I use Delta Ceramcoat or FolkArt acrylic paints, these are heavy pigmented paints, thin with water, brush paint, good selection of colors inexpensive 2 fluid ounce bottles under $2.00 purchase at local Hobby Lobby.  For wood structures such as water tank kits, stain wash of black India ink and rubbing alcohol.

RTR12, Jerrman, Patrick1544 and John Ochab:

 

Thanks for your suggrstions and "how-to's"; much appreciated

 

Tony

One thing I didn't see mentioned in the 'how-to' parts (apologies I missed it), it is usually recommended to wash all your 'plastic' (like Ameri-Towne) building parts with mild soapy water to remove the lubricant from the tooling used to manufacture the parts. Then allow to dry completely before painting. Of course this would not apply to wooden kits. I have never painted an engine or any rolling stock.

Your absolutely right. In addition I scrub them using a toothbrush with Ajax cleanser. This is like a light sanding to make the paint adhere better. Just make sure you rinse off all residue from the crevices and corners. 

I was big on Pollyscale and floquil and I just saw that Micro-mark has paints in RR colors that are formulated/matched to Pollyscale paint samples. Thats great to see.

Tru Color has some great railroad colors

Wood can contain natural oils or hold other oils that foul paint and stain too.

A wipe with denatured alcohol will clear the surface, but also normally raises grain just enough to need a final pass with fine sandpaper to knock it down again. 

 

Wallmart here has 50¢ bottles of Apple Barrel acrylic in the craft dept.

(this has to be the 6th time I've written that this week! 3rd time in 24hrs, 2cnd time in an hour! LOL)