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Hello-

 

I've been a Lionel guy for decades and I finally broke down and bought a used MTH Railking UP Challenger.  I believe it's the first model they produced back in 1996, as it has only the QSI and whistle boards in the tender.  No protosound.

 

I need a few parts and have been trying to find an exploded parts diagram and parts list and have been entirely unsuccessful.  The MTH factory page for the model has no links to anything - just the product description.

 

I'm usually pretty good with the internet but am experiencing some frustration in trying to locate the parts info I need (I can't order parts without part numbers).

 

If anyone can help or point me in the right direction, it would be greatly appreciated.

 

Many thanks.

Darrin

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Hello Chuck.  Thank you for your reply.

 

I saw the 2-page "frequently requested parts list" but no diagram.  Being unfamiliar with MTH, I don't know if the two models are the same mechanically.  Is it just that the 1188 model has PS1 from the factory but all else is the same?

 

Is there a diagram for that model lurking about somewhere?

 

Specifically, I'm looking for diagrams for the trucks/motors.

 

The MTH parts site seems incomplete, unless I'm overlooking something.

 

Cheers!

Darrin

 

Originally Posted by Chuck Sartor:

What specific parts are you looking for?

I'm looking for worm wheels, pickup rollers, and a smoke unit.

 

The smoke unit is not on the parts list for the 1188 (I have an 1108 so no proto-anything).

 

The worm wheel is not listed.  I call it a worm wheel but maybe MTH calls it something else.  This is the brass (bronze?) gear that presses on to the main drive axle and engages with the worm on the motor shaft.  I assume I can replace one of these much like a Lionel postwar Berk or Turbine.  Please enlighten me if that's a poor assumption...

 

If the pickup rollers are the same as for the 1188, it appears the entire pickup assembly is: BD-0000013.

 

I'd also consider a couple of motors with worms for spares if reasonably priced. RS-385PH (RD545824) with brass flywheels.

 

Cheers!

D

It's OK Chuck, I appreciate your reply and your sympathy.  Fortunately, I'm not in for that much so it will make a nice doorstop.

 

I was always told that MTH products are great when they are running and a nightmare from the darkest depths of **** when they need parts/service - the opposite of Lionel postwar motive power.  I guess I had to experience MTH firsthand before I could form an opinion.

 

Now I have.

 

Thank you again for your insight.

 

Best,

Darrin

Originally Posted by GGG:

Drive blocks are $75 and require turn in.  It is not hard to press the gear off, but it would be a unique size most likely.  You can always pull it and see if you can have one manufactured.  G

Turn in?  You mean like a core?  As in I would have to send the bad drive block in before I could get a new one?  Why?

 

Seems unlikely I could get a worm wheel manufactured anywhere for $75.  And if a new drive block has new bearings on all axles, I may as well go that route.

 

I was considering talking to NWSL to see what options they have available for getting it repowered with better motors and lower gearing so I can have more realistic low speeds.

 

Thanks for your input, G.

 

-Darrin

Last edited by Stro
Originally Posted by challenger3980:

I fear that it will not be too many years after manufacture, that most newer locomotives will be in the same boat parts wise. The days of large parts stocks and interchangeability between many models is quickly becoming, or has become a thing of the past, at least on mid-range and higher equipment.

 

Doug

Certainly sad.  I started learning about mechanical and electrical basics by repairing Lionel locomotives side-by-side with my dad when I was 8.  It was the foundation for a successful career as an engineer later on.

Last edited by Stro
Originally Posted by Stro:
Originally Posted by GGG:

Drive blocks are $75 and require turn in.  It is not hard to press the gear off, but it would be a unique size most likely.  You can always pull it and see if you can have one manufactured.  G

Turn in?  You mean like a core?  As in I would have to send the bad drive block in before I could get a new one?  Why?

 

Seems unlikely I could get a worm wheel manufactured anywhere for $75.  And if a new drive block has new bearings on all axles, I may as well go that route.

 

I was considering talking to NWSL to see what options they have available for getting it repowered with better motors and lower gearing so I can have more realistic low speeds.

 

Thanks for your input, G.

 

-Darrin

Yes, A core.  I have ordered and replaced block for folks before.  MTH gears hold up very well, if worn normally the motor was not attached correctly, vice too many miles wore it out. 

 

Correction on the price also.  I recently did a Big Boy and the block was $50. G

Last edited by GGG
Originally Posted by GGG:
Originally Posted by Stro:
Originally Posted by GGG:

Drive blocks are $75 and require turn in.  It is not hard to press the gear off, but it would be a unique size most likely.  You can always pull it and see if you can have one manufactured.  G

Turn in?  You mean like a core?  As in I would have to send the bad drive block in before I could get a new one?  Why?

 

Seems unlikely I could get a worm wheel manufactured anywhere for $75.  And if a new drive block has new bearings on all axles, I may as well go that route.

 

I was considering talking to NWSL to see what options they have available for getting it repowered with better motors and lower gearing so I can have more realistic low speeds.

 

Thanks for your input, G.

 

-Darrin

Yes, A core.  I have ordered and replaced block for folks before.  MTH gears hold up very well, if worn normally the motor was not attached correctly, vice too many miles wore it out. 

 

Correction on the price also.  I recently did a Big Boy and the block was $50. G

Well, cost-wise, it's sounding better all the time...  if I only had a part number!  I've been doing some more research and perhaps "Midge" at MTH can help me next week.

 

RE: wear

 

The worm wheel, on the front truck only, is dished out in the center.  There appears to have been plenty of lube present and the screws holding the motor to the mount and the mount to the drive block all seem correct and engaged properly.  The shaft on the motor runs true, as does the axle/worm wheel combination.  It does have a lot of miles on it, as the roller pickups are notched.  I noticed it when attempting the slow starts, the front truck would "pop" - indicating an issue somewhere in the drive train.  The worm is not meshing completely with the worm wheel at slow speed.

 

There is some end play in the armature shaft but I don't know if that would cause it.  If MTH can help and the prices are reasonable, I may just have them match a new drive block/motor combination.

 

Soooo, why do they require a core exchange?  Do they rebuild them?

 

Thanks!

D

Ah, the Good Old Days, when you could get parts...yeah, for a poor selection of products

using the same (typically inaccurate) running gear over and over and over...

 

If we want a huge selection of accurate models (and we do), part of the "price" of that

is a parts selection that, of necessity, will be less universal than those for that same

AC, open-frame, 3-axle power unit that was found in every...and so on. I'll take

the difficulties of better product selection (and more accurate products) any day over

an endless supply of little variety. 

 

Now, I sympathize with those needing parts - I love to bash things and I really, really

hope that MTH finally gets its Parts act together ("copy Lionel; copy Lionel; copy Lionel";

chant until achieved). But the Good Old Days are now. (I'm 66 years old.)

I have one of those locos; originally whistle only.  I upgraded it to PS2.  It has, and always has had, one smoke unit feeding the two stacks.  It has had one MTH smoke unit; never had 2 Seuthes.  I did have to rewire the smoke unit to change the heaters from parallel to series or vice versa (I forget which). 

 

MTH has since reissued the RK Challenger several times.  It is hard to believe that they would have made major changes to the gear system, so it might be worth talking to Midge &/or  at MTH to see what she has to say.

 

Given the price of a new Challenger, some reasearch on parts is justified.

Originally Posted by RJR:

I have one of those locos; originally whistle only.  I upgraded it to PS2.  It has, and always has had, one smoke unit feeding the two stacks.  It has had one MTH smoke unit; never had 2 Seuthes.  I did have to rewire the smoke unit to change the heaters from parallel to series or vice versa (I forget which). 

 

MTH has since reissued the RK Challenger several times.  It is hard to believe that they would have made major changes to the gear system, so it might be worth talking to Midge &/or  at MTH to see what she has to say.

 

Given the price of a new Challenger, some reasearch on parts is justified.

Thanks for chiming in RJR-

 

I found some info in some other posts about how to contact Midge at MTH so I'll give her a shout this week and try to get the story straight from her.

 

This particular locomotive was bashed from the UP version to an NP Z8.  The deceased gentleman who owned her did a really nice custom job on the pilot and the boiler front with the Westinghouse compound pumps, changing the bell, deleting one smoke stack, and many other details.  The paint is not quite right yet (he wasn't able to finish it, sadly) and so If I can rescue her with replacement mechanical parts, I'll probably finish her the way his notes and sketches indicate.

 

I was wondering if the newer MTH Challengers were mechanically the same but with perhaps different boilers and added electronics.  Seems like the driveline should be the same but, again, I have no prior experience with how MTH designs and produces things.

 

How difficult was it to upgrade to PS2 (besides rewiring the smoke unit)?  Like yours, this one has only the whistle and electronic e-unit.

 

Cheers!

D

Don't abandon upgrading to Proto 1 too soon.

RJR's comment "What was available then probably is no longer available, or only at a price close to a PS3 upgrade kit." is highly speculative.

There are a number of folks on this forum who enjoy working with Proto 1, and who have collected surplus Proto 1 electronics that have been taken out of locomotives during Proto 2 or 3 upgrades.

Because they are surplus these assemblies are much less expensive than a new PS 3 upgrade.  Having dealt with several myself in the past they also appear to be quite robust in spite of their advanced age, compared to say PS2 5 volt systems.

Post a "Wanted to Buy" on the forum and see what comes back.  You may be surprised.

Another source is online auctions (other than perhaps eBay).  The prices are usually quite reasonable.

Mike

Last edited by Mellow Hudson Mike
@RJR posted:

Buying a used board is like buying a used car. Pray hard.  Nothing new is available, and if I recall, many of the early PS1 boards were QSI products, which company may no longer be around.

Thank you @Alan Mancus for pointing out that new PS1 board assemblies are still available.  If you prefer a new one you can get new, although perhaps needing some help from an ASC technician.

For the rest of us it's a matter of perspective.  It seems a pity to let perfectly good used PS1 boards rot, or worse yet to throw them in the trash, when they still have useful life.

If someone like @Fexturbjet is interested in reusing these there are folks on this forum that can help.

As for new boards, buying a new PS3 board can also be like buying a used car.  There are a fair number of posts here from people who can't get their new PS3 upgrade to work without some help.  Now this might be because of user error, but it's still just as frustrating, and even more expensive.

I don't have a problem with taking a gamble on an old PS1 board set.

Your preference probably depends on whether you're a tinkerer or a user.

Mike

Last edited by Mellow Hudson Mike
As for new boards, buying a new PS3 board can also be like buying a used car.  There are a fair number of posts here from people who can't get their new PS3 upgrade to work without some help.  Now this might be because of user error, but it's still just as frustrating, and even more expensive.

It's not just user error.  Turns out there are some flaws in the new shipping boards.   I'm working with one now that simply refuses to load a legal combination of sound files and chain files.  I don't have a clue what is going on with it, but something is sure broken!

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