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Hi all.

 

I'm a brand new model RRer.  I have a new MTH P3 Diesel Engine.  Just recently it's been shutting down.  It would start up, run for about 10 seconds and then stop and shut down.. I tried swithing tracks.. making the track smaller etc.  I'm just running an O48 oval with about 60" of straight track in between the ovals.. 

 

Anyone know what the problem could be??  

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Sometimes a new engine takes a little running time to get worked in.   center rail rollers may need a little lube on the pin that goes through the roller . traction tires and outside rail wipers(pickups) can also cause problems. Feeders to both outside rails may help or even try  turning  the engine around facing the opposite direction.  Having said all that it may be a hardware problem as gunrunner pointed out. hope not.

WOW!!  Thank you all for the replies!!!  

 

-The engine suddenly stops and then goes through the shut-down sound effects, and shuts off.

 

- I am running DCS that came with my ready-to-run set.

 

I am going to clean the track, and see if that works.. also I am going to clean and re-lube the rollers..

 

Thanks to all for everyones help!!!  I'll post the results.

The shutdown sounds play so the engine isn't just cutting all power indiscriminately.

 

You're using RealTrax on a carpet, not the best choice for a temporary loop. If possible, try with a small loop (just 8 curved tracks or so) on a hard floor to minimize track flex from the weight of the engine.

 

I suspect that the problem may be a poor connection between track sections. If you have a multimeter, I'd suggest that when the engine stops, that you check for voltage on the tracks upon which it's sitting.

 

Also, with the loop just sitting on the floor, put the engine in one spot, start it up and see how long it runs when it's not moving. If it sits for an extended period of time without shutting down, I'd suspect the tracks.

Last edited by Barry Broskowitz

Here's an easy test.... put a piece of electrical tape on the center rail (maybe 2 inches long) park the engine with one set  center rail rollers on the tape. The other set of rollers should provide power to the engine.  reverse with other set of rollers.  You could do it at the workbench with a continuity meter but this will work as well.

RJR...  Sorry to answer your question..  I cleaned the track with a cloth and some alcohol.. (very little).  I'm not sure if the power is cutting off.. The  green light is on on the DCS set.

 

I shortened the track to 4 10"straights, and a set of O48s.  And now it runs fine.  I wonder if I had too much track.. but it wasn't that much longer before.  I don't know if I took off some dead track..  

 

I never thought about pushing the lit caboose around the track to see if the light goes out.. I'll have to try that.

 

I have noticed if I put a lighted car ont he track while the engine is on and in neutral, it trips the switch and turns everything off, and the engine goes through the shut down mode.

 

Is it possible to have a section of dud track?

 

Again!! Thanks for ALL the comments and help!!!  

 

 

When you say it trips the switch, do you mean the circuit breaker in the transformer opens? 

 

All the green light means is that the DCS itself is powered.

 

You can't have too much track in the area you describe.  You say it's working ok now.  One of the track sections you removed may be shorted.

 

You say a lighted car trips the switch.  Is this after you removed the track as you described in your 2nd papragraph?

 

What transformer are you using?  Is this your only loco?  If not, how do the others behave.

 

AT this point, I suspect the problem may be that your transformer breaker is cutting off power to the entire layout.  But why? Check the track, and also the wheels & pickup rollers carefully to make sure there isn't something metallic shorting the center rail.  What lighted cars do you have?

 

I'm not trying to cross-examine, only trying to get some possibly relevant facts to zero in on a cause.

I have noticed if I put a lighted car ont he track while the engine is on and in neutral, it trips the switch and turns everything off, and the engine goes through the shut down mode.

That's most likely because you're not setting the caboose down cleanly and are causing a short that trips the breaker.

 

Never put on or take off anything from the track while power is on!

sounds like it might be a track problem. why don't you turn the engine up side down and hook the ac to the frame and center rollers and see how long it will run,if it keeps running OK try gently shaking the engine in your hand in case it's a loose wire connector as someone mentioned earlier.

Good luck, hope you figure it out

Alan

Alan,

why don't you turn the engine up side down and hook the ac to the frame and center rollers and see how long it will run

He's already gotten it to run indefinitely by shortening up his loop. It would seem to be a track problem.

,if it keeps running OK try gently shaking the engine in your hand in case it's a loose wire connector as someone mentioned earlier.

Bad idea! A loose wire can cause a shorted board. The only way to see if there's a loose wire is to open the engine and look for one.

 

Regardless, he's gotten it to run OK, like it did previously, by eliminating some track, which most likely had a bad piece. He's a newbie and it's a new engine. If it fails again, it should go back under warrantee.

Trying to determine if this is your basement or living room. Even if you have carpet on your basement floor, it does have a dampness to it. Even if your house is a cement slab. Fastrack connection can get really flaky. If you left the track set up on the floor, it might not work all that well a few days later. If you put it back to the way it was, it will probably operate fine. Only way to get Fastrack to work again is to take it apart and reassemble.

 

One other thing I noticed in the video is the large gap at the joined section under the loco where it stops. Seems with the thick carpet it causes it to flex to the weight of the engine. This will cause the joint in the rail to bend and expand making poor connection. 

Last edited by Riverrailfan

BARRY, YOU GOT IT!! THANK YOU!!!

 

So, it was working fine as of last night on the O48s and 4 10" straights.. Just as you said, I added a straight track on each side of the oval, plugged it in, and slowly ran the caboose only over the whole track.. Sure enough, I found it.. I singled out that peice and tested the rest of the tracks... At first I thought I had multiple duds, but when that one dud was on the track it was making other pieces appear to be duds.. very strange.. 

 

Either way, thank you to everyone for their help.. Everything is up and rolling again.. 

 

WHEW!!!

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