MTH F3 dummy B wheelset

Yes, you can remove the wheel set and press it on further. Make sure you don't press it too far! You need to measure accurately.

Also be careful when you put it back. Make sure it's fully seated and correctly installed.

Are the couplers KDs that you mounted? If so use a shim to lower them if too high.

If they are dummy lobster claw (3 rail), not much to do with them I believe? I haven't tried on mine.

Thanks Joe.
Yes, don’t want push it on too far!   I’ll sneak up on it while pressing the wheel on.
Thanks for the heads up about making sure it’s correctly seated. It looked like a simple procedure but I thought it be a good idea to ask first rather than run into something unexpected.

This is my first set of MTH diesels.

The couplers are not dummy lobster claws, they look like dummy Kadees. They are mounted on the rear trucks of the A units and both ends of the B unit. They’re mounted to the trucks with a small Phillips screw. The screw is tight but there’s a bit of up and down movement. I may try a thin hobby size washer to eliminate the slop or use as a shim. There are no Kadee mounting pads, like I thought there would be, where they have these truck mounted couplers.  But the cab ends of the A units have a place to mount Kadees.

Thanks again.

Al NJ, I’ll be interested in knowing if you have any success with fixing the coupler issue.  I received my A-B-A set of 2-rail F3’s (Jersey Central) just before Christmas and I noticed the same thing with there being a bit of slop in those “dummy” scale couplers.  

All I’ve had time to do so far is to check the screws that hold the couplers to the trucks, but the screws were fully tightened.

What road name did you get?

I am slightly surprised about the coupler mounts. I bought a set of 3 rail units that I converted to 2 rail. So I don't know how the stock 2 rail units came.

I do have MTH F series units in G scale. They come with a few options for connecting and the stock dummy couplers looked good to me.

I have had some issues in the past with certain releases not having the couplers at perfect height. Each one required fixing on my part to get it right. Each one was a different solution.

I too bought CNJ units and got them just before Christmas. I didn’t even know they were going to be made until Beth posted something about having a few a couple weeks ago, as I don’t keep up with MTH releases.

I only have the beginnings of a small switching type shelf layout for now, with no grades, but with the couplers about half engaged with one another, I can see where it might be a problem later. I didn’t check them with a height gauge yet... I guess I’ll do that later today. But I’m happy with them. (Wasn’t there a thread about impulse buys? Lol)

If I get time to play with shimming the couplers I’ll keep you posted.
Any suggestions of which Kadee couplers to use for the front of the A units? Looks like they might need a long shank.

Engineer Joe, “Each one requiring fixing... Each one was a different solution.” Agreed. It’s just part of the game

Thanks

For anyone else reading this, if you press the wheels to far together in a vice, I used a crescent wrench on the edge of the vice to support the wheel set and pushed the axle outward with a drift pin.

I used regular length couplers on my 3 rail conversion of these. Again, I haven't seen the 2 rail version.

I used a Protocraft coupler in the “lead” A-unit because, well, they just look so good!   Even more realistic than the Kadees IMO.  It’s mounted in a Kadee box...a trick I learned from fellow Forum member CentralFan1976 (Mario).

I used a regular length Kadee coupler & box on the nose of the trailing A-unit, as that will be the one coupled to other Kadees on the train consist.  I don’t have a real layout right now, so I’ll have to wait to determine if a long-shank Kadee will be needed.  I’m hoping I can keep the regular-length shank.

Here’s a picture of the Protocraft coupler.  I have to do a little paint touch-up on the lip of the Kadee box.