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All,

Im looking for an operating manual for an MTH 1304 UP H10-44 w/ PS1. From what I can find on the internet, I think it’s model # is 20-2082-1? It’s another project I picked up that was damaged by moisture. I planned to convert it over to TMCC via ERR but I decided to see if I could fix the existing electronics. I disassembled the entire loco and thoroughly cleaned and lubricated it. The board was fairly clean so I took a shot at resurrecting it. I found one capacitor that looked questionable so I replaced it. After replacing the motors, speaker, vol pot, and the capacitor, it’s up and running. Everything works as designed. One question I have is why did MTH wire the couplers to a selector switch? Is the board (or programming) not capable of firing the couplers individually? The board has 4 solder pads for front AND rear couplers but the switch’s 2 wires are soldered to just 2 of the pads. I would think they’d give the operator the option to fire the front or rear independently. You know, because it’s a switcher! Any insight will be greatly appreciated.
Thank You,

Dan

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There is only one coupler trigger for the ProtoSound 1 boards, so the switch was to select which coupler fired when you triggered them.  FYI, PS/1 is strictly conventional, so it's not like PS/2 or PS/3 or TMCC in that you'd have command operation from a remote.

Almost any ProtoSound locomotive will have the same operating instructions, so just fine another one on the MTH site and refer to that one.

Thanks GRJ for the info. That’s what I thought but wasn’t sure. I like to get the loco specific operating instructions to kind of “complete the job” if that makes sense?
I’m assuming the couplers won’t fire consistently if both were wired to the board in parallel? And wired in series will probably cook the board, correct? It would’ve been nice to have the ability to fire them independently. You should create an add-on circuit which can trigger the front or rear coupler based on direction. It should be pretty easy to do. You’d just have to rely on motor voltage to control a flip flop chip of sorts. Anyway, thank you again for your assistance!

Dan

I've never tried to wire the couplers in parallel, but my sense it it's a bad idea.

@DanVW posted:

You should create an add-on circuit which can trigger the front or rear coupler based on direction. It should be pretty easy to do. You’d just have to rely on motor voltage to control a flip flop chip of sorts.

Did you read my signature line?

Nothing is so easy as the job you imagine someone else doing!

There is only one coupler trigger for the ProtoSound 1 boards, so the switch was to select which coupler fired when you triggered them.  FYI, PS/1 is strictly conventional, so it's not like PS/2 or PS/3 or TMCC in that you'd have command operation from a remote.

Almost any ProtoSound locomotive will have the same operating instructions, so just fine another one on the MTH site and refer to that one.

GRJ,

On another note, have you ever witnessed a PS1 board alternately energize the relays when the direction button is pressed but the loco doesn't go backwards? It's performing F-N-N-N-F. The sounds are present while in the reverse position simulating engine revs when the throttle is advanced but the loco stays still and the reverse light doesn't illuminate. I confirmed the bulb is good. I do get voltage out of the relays when their respective directions are selected and confirmed they're providing DC voltage at their outputs. I don't think it's a trace that has been compromised because then the loco wouldn't move at all then. Do you know if there's a component(s) after the relays and before the motor leads that could inhibit movement in one direction? I wonder if GGG has ever seen this condition?

Thank you,

Dan

Dan, George (GGG) is the guy to ask, he's the PS/1 Guru.

GRJ,

I reached out to GGG and he gave me a few suggestions which are the same steps you went through in another post. I stumbled upon that post after I reached out to you. I replaced the reverse transistor and viola, it works. The relays were throwing for both directions but I wasn’t getting voltage through the relay in reverse. Thanks again for your assistance.
Dan

Last edited by DanVW

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