Both tires at the same time.
I figure they're just old and need to be replaced, but I can't see an easy way of getting them off.
The crank pins seem not to have a hex on them (they look round, not rounded off). Do they pull out or do I need to take off the entire running gear to get the old tires off and the new tires on?
I know I had to tighten one of them once, just can't recall how I did it.....maybe they are rounded off (or maybe my eyesight is getting worse)!!!
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it does appear to be rounded, doesnt it, i would suggest trying a mini-socket on that nut. And if that doesn't work, carefully adjusted mini-vice grips'll get that nut loose. (as a last resort)
Thanks! I recall it was easy tightening the crank pin, so I must have a tool for it.
I'm surprised the tires did that. I hardly ever run the engine faster than normal slow speed for a switcher.
The part number I have for the tire is DE0000023, the engine was 30-1500-1 from 2008.
Bob, I have a Railking 0-8-0 from that era I bought years ago just for the tender and electronics. I just dug it out from under the bench. The crankpin does indeed look round. Maybe pressed in. A bit of work. If you take off the hex bolts holding the side rod to the front and middle wheels. Remove the boiler. Unscrew the cylinder screws and slide the cylinders forward. It looks like you would be able to slide the tire over everything there and then over the drive wheel without ever dealing with the crank. In your middle picture it's almost there. The new tire though I'm sure is much smaller as that one really looks stretched out.
Dave, I looked in my tool box and found a hex driver...from Lionel no less (must have come with my the Southern 4-8-2 Mountain I got because that's the only Lionel steamer I have) that fits the pin head so I was able to remove the rods from the rear set of drivers.
I have a bag full of tires, some labeled, some not. I picked 2 that were quite a bit smaller than the stretched out pair that came off and with a small clamp to hold the tire in place, used 2 tiny screwdrivers to get them on the wheels.
I tested them out and they seem to work, although I might take a razor blade and trim the tire width a bit.
Right now I have the battery charging (I had BPRC'd this engine when I first started converting from DCS to BPRC 4 years ago) and when that's finished I'll give it a workout.
Bob, I just went downstairs and found my assortment of tools supplied with some engines. I believe it was a Lionel and it removed the bolt pretty easy. I've seen body shells that was on tighter than this screw. This engine probably has only been run about 10 feet. It still looks round to me. But if you look close there is a hex. Luckily not one that's super tight. Glad it worked out.
Some MTH hex recess deep enough that it does not look like a hex, but clearly it has flats on it. A proper hex tool can unscrew them. G
Bob Delbridge posted:Thanks! I recall it was easy tightening the crank pin, so I must have a tool for it.
I'm surprised the tires did that. I hardly ever run the engine faster than normal slow speed for a switcher.
The part number I have for the tire is DE0000023, the engine was 30-1500-1 from 2008.
Correction: I said mini socket, nut driver was what I meant. But you knew that. 
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