MTH Reverse Loop Problem

Are you running conventional or using DCS?  And are you using RealTrax? 

--Greg

Is the train spanning the distance between both switches?  I'm wondering if it's actually on both switches at the same time.  Maybe your switches have a problem for this scenario.

I'm guess the switches have the non-derailing feature, maybe the insulated section of the switch is touching the rail so it's not insulated.... do you have more than one set of track feeders, maybe check out the polarity on each set.

Really need more info.  How are you powering and controlling switches?  Does it matter which way the train enters?  All the switches move?

Have you done anything to the layout or the switch control recently?  G

The train set is an MTH RTR set.  To troubleshoot the problem, I am running the engine by itself so it does not span the switches.  The power is from the remote control system that comes with the set so that would be the DCS Remote Commander set.  The switches are the non-derailing kind (O-31, 40-1004/5) and I have them wired for multiple switch operation (the two for the reversing loop) through one remote switch.

Steve

I have them wired for multiple switch operation

Try removing this option and wiring them conventionally.

I could remove that option but it was all working for the past two months without a problem.  The track is not screwed down so it does float some.  The wire connecting the two switches was running underneath the section of track between the two switches and I have repositioned the wire but that does not make a difference.

I have not made any changes to the layout.

The spur has a piece of uncoupling track in it.  I uncoupled the passenger cars and coupled up a freight car to the locomotive and it was then that the problem started.  The freight car has since been removed from the track but the problem persists.  The passenger cars are sitting on the siding and the only thing I am running is the engine.

Steve

Without being there, the only thing I can recommend is looking for any issues with wiring and connections.  Obviously, something has changed.  have you looked under the track to see if something has gotten under there and is shorting things?  Have you tried another locomotive?

OK.  The problem is pseudo fixed.  With power on the track, I pressed down on the red section of track and that energized the switches.  After pressing down a few times, it stopped.  So I ran the engine over that section of track and everything worked.  I coupled up the rest of the train and ran it around the loop and reverse a couple of times and it is working.

I don't think the section of O-31 curve is the problem but I do think it is in that switch.  And it might be in the connections that the switch block makes with the switch.

For right now it is all working so "if it ain't broke don't fix it".  The next time it happens (and I'm sure it will) I'll look more closely at the switch block connection.

Thanks to everyone.

Steve

See bottom of page 3 in regard to wiring both sides of a z-4000 together.

The z-4000 throttles will be wired together on a TPC4000.

I think this was in a different thread, but I agree with you.  I see no difference electrically connecting them together on the input of the TPC as opposed to simply connecting them directly to the track.

The power supply is the one supplied with the RTR sets that put a constant 18V on the track.  It's model #2500 and the only thing on it is a reset button.

Steve

wrong thread my bad.

I think you found the problem when you discovered the "floating track" energized the switches when pressed. Sounds like the non derailing feature is energized and since both switches are connected together, they are both trying to throw.

I have found the same thing happens to me when I set up the Christmas layout w/ the track on snow battens. The track will flex and the rail ends will energize the switch. If I am wrong, it still won't hurt to try to either put tape between the offending rails or to dremel either the switch rail or the adjacent track rail shorter so that they do not touch....or put something solid under the joint so it does not flex.

The fact that the system worked for months, and then unexplainably started to do this points to something like this...simple but complicated! If I am wrong, only a few minutes wasted before you have to take up track to delve deeper into the problem. Changing things up, after months of working, makes no sense to me.

Good luck, Greg

Thanks Greg.  I don't understand the electrical side very well.  But are not the rails electrically connected at all times?  When I first set it up, I had a problem with the switch block on the upper switch in the diagram.  It was not quite connected to the switch itself correctly.  The bottom switch did not give me that problem but it seems to be the one where the problem is occurring.

I think your suggestion of putting something under the track to stop the flexing is the way to go.  I'll try that and see if it "permanently" solves the problem.

Steve