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From what I can see, MTH has only made the RS3 in Railking.

 

The RK unit I have has head/tail lights but that's it, the number boards are pieces of sticky stuff with numbers printed on them.

 

Do any MTH RS3s have these number boards lighted or are they all using the stick-on labels?  has anyone installed lights and "glass" in the number boards?

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Thanks Keith

 

I recently replaced the Locosounds with ERR Cruise Commander and the new Railsounds boards and realized there weren't a lot of lights on the engine.

 

I'll have to take another look at the ERR circuitry to see how I can add number board lights but it shouldn't be hard to do.  Cutting the holes and adding "glass" should be easy.

 

I've already cut away the shell inside the cab, but now I can see the motor and wiring so I need to add some crew to block the view.

c.sam, the RS3 was my 1st O gauge engine.  I had it a few years before I ever dreamed of having a layout.  It was the 1st O gauge anything I had seen lettered for Seaboard and had to have it.

 

I have been most pleased with it, even the Locosounds were nice, but I already had the ERR Cruise Commander and with the new Railsounds unit out I decided to upgrade the RS3 to Command Control.

 

I had already fixed the pilot and added Kadee couplers, and after looking at my books last night I see the SAL units had a number board, as well as marker lights, on the front of the long nose (SAL front end).

 

I think I'll Dremel out the side number boards and add the nose number board, I may even have some marker lights I can use, just not sure if I can match the MTH paint.  It's a greenish brown/brownish green and none of the Pullman or Seaboard greens I have are close.

Michael,

 

I like the rounded edges of the RS units, a little more style than these new squared-off engines

 

Anybody know the diameter of this P&D grille (PDP2051K) or (2041, 2035):

 

https://ogrforum.com/t...-on-installing-grill

 

I've drilled out the exhaust stack and number boards, but now the solid fan grille just begs to be replaced.

 

The plastic body is thick (maybe 1/8"), but it feels softer than most other shells I've worked on.  A drill goes right thru it and a file quickly cleans up any uneven surfaces.

Last edited by Bob Delbridge
Originally Posted by Bob Delbridge:

Don,

What figures did you use?  The two I was going to use are a tad too big and they won't sit facing forward unless I apply some heat and twist them.

Bob, I cannot recall but I thought I used MTH engineer figures. I did surgically cut most of the body in half. It is a very tight fit.

 

 

train cab right [2)

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Last edited by DMASSO
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