Skip to main content

Still a long way to go (and I'm certainly no Malcolm when it comes to skill Smile

) but making progress on my ex-D&H Weaver RS3. The plastic Weaver RS3 is an amazingly good starting point, considering it's over 20 years old!






Next step is to replace the plastic grill & fan with etched brass parts from P&D. Can anyone out there who's done this give me some advice on how you went about it? It looks like I'll have to carve out the plastic but leave a bit of edge to mount the brass grill to. But how much? Or, did you wrap a strip of styrene around the hollowed out fan casing and mount the grill to that?? How did you mount the fan??

I'd love to get some advice before I screw something up royally Wink









Jack

Last edited by GE Hogger
Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

Looks mighty fine to me!! Don't you love those hood door handles (except the price). The old Weaver RS-3 still has a lot to offer and yours is looking great.

When replacing the fan grill I drill a 1/4" hole and keep increasing the drill size up to 1/2". The I use a dremel with a cutter bit and SLOWLY go round and round until it is opened up. You can also add a strip of 20x80 around the opening to add the flange.

Malcolm
Thanks for the kind words guys!

The truck sideframes are actually old Overland AAR Type B's. My plan is to use Protocraft gear towers and wheelsets and an above-frame drive, so that I can put a speaker in the fuel tank. The tank is 1 3/8" wide x 3" long x 5/8" deep and I'm hoping I can find a good bass speaker that will fit in there!

J.
quote:
Originally posted by Brother_Love:
Looks mighty fine to me!! Don't you love those hood door handles (except the price). The old Weaver RS-3 still has a lot to offer and yours is looking great.

When replacing the fan grill I drill a 1/4" hole and keep increasing the drill size up to 1/2". The I use a Dremel with a cutter bit and SLOWLY go round and round until it is opened up. You can also add a strip of 20x80 around the opening to add the flange.

Malcolm


That is pretty much the same way I'd do it also. I'd open a larger hole and then use a drum sander attachment. Same basic operation , just slightly different.

Ed R
Thanks for the advice everyone! It is much appreciated.

Matt, the molded grab irons and lift rings are the next thing to go after the fan is completed Smile Sanding off the flat molded breather pipe and replacing it with the stand alone brass part gave me a lot of confidence...as did replacing the plastic cab steps. I just might be able to successfully pull this project off without ruining the shell!

Gents,

Thanks to your advice, I'm pleased to report success!













I even got fancy, reamed out the pre-drilled holes with a #72 bit, and installed NBW castings.



A big improvement over the stock grill!



I also made up a fan transmission out of styrene that will get painted and installed, along with the top flange around the housing. Thanks again for the advice & encouragement!!
quote:
Originally posted by GE Hogger:
Gents,

Thanks to your advice, I'm pleased to report success!













I even got fancy, reamed out the pre-drilled holes with a #72 bit, and installed NBW castings.



A big improvement over the stock grill!



I also made up a fan transmission out of styrene that will get painted and installed. Thanks again for the advice & encouragement!!

Hogger, all I want to ask is.....did you use a hand drill or a drill press with that spade bit? Those things have a bad habit of catching and ripping material at the worst possible time. p/s The loco look's GREAT!
quote:
Hogger, all I want to ask is.....did you use a hand drill or a drill press with that spade bit? Those things have a bad habit of catching and ripping material at the worst possible time. p/s The loco look's GREAT!


Thanks Bill. I did it at VERY slow speed in a press. Looking back tho, next time I think I'll just make a big enough hole for the Dremel drum sanding bit to fit in, then route it out from there.

J
quote:
Originally posted by GE Hogger:
Thanks Mike. I'm a big fan of your Shawmut painted SW's!

Detail needed for the SWs. Pole, at one time seen mounted on the front frame, chains, and some air line detail on the the side tanks.
I have decal sets if your interested. Not the best, but they are decent. I also have decal sets for the Montour SWs. (Very nice sets)

No Alco's in the mix on either RR.

Great project. Take your time, it looks wonderful. Smile I was thinking a small hole saw with arbor. Use it with your hand on the soft plastic. Adds a bit of control. I mention that because the hole saw kit is always in the truck.

One more...

 

My railroad represents the close of one era and the dawn of another.  It's December 1999 and the Delaware Valley just purchased these second-hand ATSF GP30u's, which will spell the end of the line for the RS3's that prowled these branchlines through the 90's.  Alco Twilight if you will...

 

Jack

Attachments

Images (1)
  • P1100171

Excellent project Jack. Your doing a prime job at it too.I find the old first generation diesels very appealing myself...I have a NJ Custom Brass RS-3 stashed away on my overloaded project shelf. I picked up a few additional details for it last time I ordered from P&G. Does that eventual paint job scare you at all...I always approach them with real caution knowing it can muck up all the work I put in.

 

Good Luck

 

Bob

Post

OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×