MTH switch trach problem

If it is a Real Trax switch, you might be dealing with a feature called anti derail which throws the switch fast to prevent you ramming it wrong with a engine.

Also consider tying the switches to a AIU and tie that to the Z4000's aux power or equilvilant.

Track power is not always ideal to run the switches and the train.

You say you can turn the lantern and the switch will move. But under electric power it makes noise... something to consider.

My feeling is either the coil is burned out or you have runt track power insufficient to feed coil.

Thank you Lee.  If it matters, I have a TECH II transformer.  It does have auxillary power, so I will try that.

Thanks

  Marty

Your anti-derail track to the straight position or your selector switch to the straight position is shorted. That is what is causing the switch to constantly transfer to the straight position.

Al

Switch may not be shorted, I have had this happen numerous times.  I take the back off, clean the contacts, lube the switch and test.  Usually this will work. While back is off look for short or broken wire, etc.  Also sometimes it is a low power issue.  If it is shorted they are repairable.

Mort

I am new to posting on forum. I use realtrax and have found that if switch will not switch to curved track the straight track rail on wye side of switch is making contact with switch rail. It is the straight rail that does not have a metal piece that snaps into metal piece of switch. A piece of electrical tape on straight rail track end will take care of problem. Or, filing straight rail end will correct the problem. Give it a try. Works with curve side too if switch wants to stay on curve.

Alex Z

Not familiar with MTH switches but this sounds like an anti derailing switch thats missing a insulating pin so the switch is getting a ground connection on the straight rails that's holding the switch that way.

I have these switches on my layout. IF the track is not level, the piece connecting to the switch can be touching at the rails despite the lack of a contact underneath.

This will trigger the anti derail to that track all the time.

Take a small piece of paper plate or such thick paper and put in between the outer rails on the straight side out of the switch and the rails of the next piece of track.

That should let you switch by remote.

If it does, just trim the paper down close to the rails but not small enough to fall inside the hollow rail. Remember, you can have excess on the outside, but not inside where the flanges run.

Note, I actually connect the track up at the switch and insulate one joint away, it gives the switch more time to settle in the correct place.

Thanks everyone for your replies.  I guess there are a lot of things to try based on your answers.  I'm finding now that it works once in a while.  Thinking it is a power problem.  I will first try using the auxilary power hookup.

  Marty