8' x 10' Layout - Design Stages

PS:  Use a separate transformer for the switch machines; especially if you plan to have lighted signs, buildings, etc. on the layout, because every time a switch gets thrown the lights in signs, buildings etc. flickering going dim to bright--very unrealistic.

You might want to consider Tortoise turnout motors as suggested earlier. The Tortoise is a comparatively slow-moving [prototypical] switch motor mounted underneath the benchwork and throws the throw bar via a springwire. Energized by fixed 12VDC power, in my case 17 turnouts are supplied by a 12VDC wall wart or a small HO Power Pak works. 

In my case I control the turnouts via on/on or on/center off/on, toggles mounted on a track schematic board in a fixed control location. Alternatively, using VAC, your can control Tortoise from a handheld remote via ACS or similar modules by using inexpensive diodes to rectify to VDC power.

I prefer the manual toggles in my old age simplicity because the orientation of the toggle handle on the schematic tells me at a glance where the switchpoints are positioned---thru or out.

Mike,

Thank you for getting this thread going, and thank you one and all for your responses.  Having come from a 45 year background in HO, and never using track planning software or any kind of command control, the questions and answers have been very informative. I will be continuing with only my ceiling loop until our grown daughter moves out, but will be trying to fill a similar size space with a layout then.

Mike,

i hope to see you at Patrick's on the first.

There is a lot of great information here.  

Mike, I've been reading your thread and making notes.  In the future I'll be able to reference them while building my layout.

Great stuff!  Thanks again!

John,

Thank you, glad I won't need the AIU for this.  Also, thank you for clarifying the DZ motors.  So is the non-derailing feature just the track section of the switch that moves?

Dewey,

From the advice of Patrick and now you, thats probably what I'd go with.  Question though, what is the price range and where do I find them?  I'm familiar, thanks to Bobbie, with the toggle switches.  I'd be able to use those hopefully without any problems. Do you use the SPDT I assume?  I'm pretty sure there are some extra HO transformer/controllers at my parents house (I assume thats what you mean by HO bricks?).

Mark,

I will see you there. 

86TA355SR,

Thanks, I've been concerned that this was turning out not to be a build thread, but if the information provided by the fellow forum members helps others, than thats even better than just a build thread.

Mike

The non-derailing feature of a turnout means that the points of the switch will "automatically" move out of the way for a train--be set as to not derail the train.  Other members here have suggested turnout machines other than the DZ.  I'm not certain if those other manufacturers products have that capability.

Ahhh, okay John, thank you.  I did not know about them.

Patrick,

I'm trying to duplicate then possibly modify the designs you've come up with.  May I ask what program you used?

The non-derailing feature is awesome for several reasons including if/when you simply forget to "clear" the points from a train's entry it takes care of itself and you don't hear CRASH!

Thank you John.

Okay, so this looks pretty similar to my RealTrax layout attempt, but I'm trying to get to somewhat near what Patrick proposed.  Not that easy... at least with SCARM.  I can already tell how much more flexibility there is with something other than RealTrax.  This is GarGraves and Ross switches.  Where can I go from here?  Suggestions?

Thanks,
Mike

I DONT WANT TO POO-POO ANYONES IDEAS, BUT IF YOUR DESIGN ELIMINATES ANY DUCK-UNDERS, YOU WILL BE REWARDED FROM NOW UNTIL ETERNITY! DUCK-UNDERS WILL BE A THORN IN YOUR SIDE( AND A PAIN IN YOUR BACK).

ATLAS TRACK IS GOOD. CUT IT WITH A HACKSAW AND HOLD IT IN A VISE. VERY DURABLE! HERES A SIMPLE REVERSE LOOP & YOU CAN DO SWITCHING DUTIES WITHOUT FOULING THE MAIN TRACKS! THIS IS JUST AN EXAMPLE.

Originally Posted by CLIFFORD:

I DONT WANT TO POO-POO ANYONES IDEAS, BUT IF YOUR DESIGN ELIMINATES ANY DUCK-UNDERS, YOU WILL BE REWARDED FROM NOW UNTIL ETERNITY! DUCK-UNDERS WILL BE A THORN IN YOUR SIDE( AND A PAIN IN YOUR BACK). MAY I SUGGEST A DOGBONE THAT IS SLIGHTLY NARROWER IN THE MIDDLE TO FACILITATE EASY REACH TO SCENERY AND TRACKWORK. ALSO YOU CAN USE 072 CURVES ON THE ENDS, INTERTWINE THE TRACKS ON MULTIPLE LEVELS, USE A BACKDROP DOWN THE CENTER, HAVE DIFFERENT SCENERY ON EITHER SIDE AND INCORPORATE A WONDERFUL TRACK PLAN. JUST A THOUGHT! I CAN DRAW SOMETHING UP FOR YOU, IF YOU NEED A VISUAL. OTHERWISE JUST TELL ME TO TAKE A HIKE. REGARDS CLIFF

Cliff,
No worries, I value all input.  I would not any duck-unders...  There is only one way into that room and I plan on creating a lift or drop bridge to enable a walk-thru.  Yes, a dog bone is a better idea than the one I originally had.  I do not believe I have enough space to add multiple levels, at least not if I want to be able to connect all of the loops.  I would never tell anybody to take a hike!  Again, I welcome all comments, help, criticism!  Thats a good idea what you you suggested in your last reply, but due to the only doorway, I don't think I'd be able to accommodate a switch at the bottom like that.  I think the doorway (centered) is about 4 feet wide though (I'll have to double check that though).  I was trying to design one of the layouts Patrick had suggested to tweak it a little, but I'm not doing so well with that!

My only thought, and I need to go back to the start of this thread, is have the ability to "reverse" a train, at least the engine itself, without having to physically lift it.  I forgot how wide this area is, if it's against a wall, etc., let me go back...YES!  Don't duck!  It's a pain in the poster--YES--poster.

John,

I agree with that.  That was something Patrick incorporated in one of his designs.  It seems like it would work, but would eliminate most any yard design (which is not extremely important).  But like they say, there's more than one way to skin, well I have cats so I won't finish that sentence, you get the point I think.  The full area is 8'4" x 9'10" with a doorway one the one side (bottom of the designs).  I want no pain in the posters, believe me!  I've tried re-working this thing a couple times, but I seem to have hit a wall.  I'm just can't seem to incorporate all of the bigger curves and a suitable walkway with this small of an area.  So, like I said, all help is welcomed!

Thanks guys

- Mike