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Hello all,

New to the forums and loving it so far. Im in need of a little help. Long story short I recently got into O gauge (Z and N scale 10+yrs) with my fiancé and we purchased our first O gauge loco, a preowned RailKing Big Boy PS3 from a fellow tca member at York last year. Got it home and right away would short on curves; 0-42 mth track... Saw the wiring harness under the loco to the drawbar was slightly damaged. Acquired new wiring harness and drawbar from MTH and installed it myself. She ran GREAT last six+ months, then tonight kept losing signal while running in DCS then stopped entirely.

Will only run in conventional mode. Fwd/Reverse, lights all work perfect. But it will not power up at all in DCS. No lights, sounds, "click noise" from the tender.

Equipment:  PS3 BigBoy (30-1582-1), DCS Commander, clean track, solid power throughout small 0-42 loop in my room. Tested another PS2 diesel and worked perfect.

I opened her up again and didn't see any loose/damaged wires or blown components on loco or tender circuit board. Seems like whatever tells the loco to "activate dcs" isn't working.

Anything I should look for to fix? Or worse case recommendation on where to get serviced? 

Thank you for taking the time to read this!

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Maybe try throwing the DCC/DCS switch back and forth a few times? (if equipped)

If you have a meter check the switch to see that it works.

IMO it is hard to see any damage with the PS3 board's tiny components. The fact that it was acting up, might be the best clue on what happened.

I always look at the draw bar connections for any communication issues between the engine and tender. There could be just one wire causing an issue. Sometimes it's the rollers, tires, or even the tether's stiff ground wire acting up.

It might even be losing ground or return?? If you can't find what's wrong, I'd consider having a tech test the boards to help find the issue faster  if possible.

The DCC/DCS switch is open for DCC and closed for DCS.  If you never intend on running DCC, just open up the tender and solder a small jumper across the leads on that switch to permanently keep it shorted.  If the switch is flaky, it'll tend to drop you into DCC mode.

I've had a number of customers have me take that switch out and permanently connect the two wires for DCS operation.

Last edited by gunrunnerjohn

Appreciate all the input thank you!

Prior owner eliminated the dcc/dcs switch it appears. When i get home tonight ill poke around with a meter to see what its getting.

When you mention the ground wires and traction tires, i cleaned wheels and pickups with alot of qtips soaked in alcohol. Then lightly oiled everything. Is there some how i messed something up? The qtips were beyond black and nasty. 

Thanks for the input! If i find anything i will keep this post updated

 
.., then tonight kept losing signal while running in DCS then stopped entirely.

 

Will only run in conventional mode. Fwd/Reverse, lights all work perfect. But it will not power up at all in DCS. No lights, sounds, "click noise" from the tender.

Equipment:  PS3 BigBoy (30-1582-1), DCS Commander, clean track, solid power throughout small 0-42 loop in my room. Tested another PS2 diesel and worked perfect.

..

1. Could you clarify what you mean by "kept losing signal".

2. By "DCS Commander" do you mean the "DCS Remote Commander" (the one with the handheld remote)?  And your track power is AC?

One of the DCS gurus will confirm, but unlike PS2 I don't think a PS3 engine has the tell-tale "click noise" when power is initially applied.

I understand that the Big Boy has been running for 6 months in DCS-command mode.  Depending on whether you have the Commander or the Remote Commander, I am imagining a scenario where the engine "lost" its engine address.  The Remote Commander can only command a PS2 or PS3 engine set to its factory-default address.  If such occurred, the engine would be silent upon application of power...and you would not see any activity when pressing the Start-Up button.  The MTH site says your engine was delivered March 2013.  After some date (yeah, not very useful but one of the DCS gurus will know when), PS3 engines could be reset to the factory-default address with the Remote.

@stan2004 posted:

1. Could you clarify what you mean by "kept losing signal".

2. By "DCS Commander" do you mean the "DCS Remote Commander" (the one with the handheld remote)?  And your track power is AC?

One of the DCS gurus will confirm, but unlike PS2 I don't think a PS3 engine has the tell-tale "click noise" when power is initially applied.

I understand that the Big Boy has been running for 6 months in DCS-command mode.  Depending on whether you have the Commander or the Remote Commander, I am imagining a scenario where the engine "lost" its engine address.  The Remote Commander can only command a PS2 or PS3 engine set to its factory-default address.  If such occurred, the engine would be silent upon application of power...and you would not see any activity when pressing the Start-Up button.  The MTH site says your engine was delivered March 2013.  After some date (yeah, not very useful but one of the DCS gurus will know when), PS3 engines could be reset to the factory-default address with the Remote.

Yes you are correct its losing its engine address and it blinks on the commander console  (50-1028)  i do not have the handheld remote sadly. The commander seems to recognize its number which is #1 but cant "edit" or anything on the commander it will say "ER" as in error. Im using the MTH Z-1000 transformer to power the commander unit

I believe your right, i think only ps2 engines click when hits the track. (big boy is my only ps3 loco) 

I will definitely look into reseting the loco itself! It does seem like the loco and commander arent communicating. It running conventional flawlessly is my only hope with the boards not being fried lol.Thank you for the input the train community is awesome👍

So i tried resetting it tonight through the commander but no dice... Buttt inspecting the board and checking the dcs/dcc switch delete, it looks like one of the surface mounted resistors blew. Its labled R102 on tender board. (Im guessing its a resistor?)20200719_211310Screenshot_20200719-212136_Gallery

Good friend of mine can surface mount, is there a board schematic to replace the blown resistor? Determined to fix it lol thanks!

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Last edited by p8ntballer789

I should've clarified alittle more my bad, the switch was removed and the wires were twisted/capped together. No jumper is present on pins underneath. 

Tender board also pretty warm in one corner after few min of power. Sending it out for repair appreciate all the feedback!20200719_232541Edit: mightve found the culprit this time, black chip labled CMR looks toast20200719_235734Screenshot_20200719-235636_Gallery

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Last edited by p8ntballer789

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