Skip to main content

 

ECCA34E9-93EB-4233-8602-A6F970A49CECAfter a short run this girl started to make a little chatter.  I don’t want to damage it, so want to get inside to lube what needs to be lubed.  First question is how do I open it up.  Is it the two big screws under the fore and aft trucks.

Second question is what do I lube once inside.  Once inside I will also address the headlight that isn’t working.

Thanks a million for any help.  I know you guys are the ones to ask.

Cheers,       W1

Attachments

Images (1)
  • ECCA34E9-93EB-4233-8602-A6F970A49CEC
Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

The two big screws remove the roller plate and allow access to the wheels and armature. I would flush the whole thing with CRC cleaner a few times over paper towels or shop cloths. Let it drain and dry. You want to use light weight oil very sparingly on the wheel bearings, side rod connections and a drop on the armature axel. The gears should get a little white lithium grease. Use a toothpick to apply. Check the wire insulation. If it is rotted, it has to be replaced. There are sources online for cloth wrapped wire. Careful with the wheels. They are quartered, which means they are set at the correct spacing to allow the side rods to move freely. 

This was my first standard gauge engine. I messed it up fixing it, but I finally learned and got it running. I love it because of all that. The e-unit can be finicky. I locked mine in forward with a zip tie around the lockout lever. 

They are pretty durable, so you shouldn’t worry too much about hurting it. After putting it back together, you should be able to spin the drive wheels to check that nothing is binding. Post back here if you have any issues.

George

Also, check the hole for the armature axel in the Bakelite brush plate. If it has widened, it may need to be replaced. I use an eraser on the brush ends and the armature commutator to remove any carbon buildup. Make sure the brushes are sufficient length to have good contact with the commutator. I have never really found brushes that could not be made to work. A drop of oil in the brush housing won’t hurt either.

George

Thanks guys.  She runs great.  The E unit is very strong.  Going to dig into it today. Unfortunately I’m not familiar with the nomenclature, don’t know what the armature or brush plate is.  I might have a book that explains it.  I really would like to know more about servicing these guys.  These trains are so cool they need to be preserved.  I have a 10 that developed a short, it has to be something simple.  And a real nice 392E that has a hitch in his giddyup.  I bought a new motor online to switch out.  Same with another 390 I bought from a forum member that turned out to be a dud.  I bought a new motor to switch out for this one too.  Might be a tad past my knowledge now, but would like to learn.  And the tender for the 392 came with 200 series wheels I need to change.  Nice to have projects to work on over this long Chicago winter.  I really have all I need as far as equipment.  In the future I might find a maroon roof reefer to add, but can’t see needing anything else.  Want to fix the few pieces I have that need it for now.

Thanks a million for your help.  Great hobby, great forum.       Cheers,       W1

Brushplate. Drum type. 392e the brushes should have a hole in them. And the brush spring goes in there.

 

The 390 might have a flat commutator. And brush tubes. Easier to change brushes.20191209_17080120191209_17075220191209_171640

I added this bearing. I had a ball bearing in side frame but didn't like it.

The other side the armature. Shaft sits in the gear plate. I had a ball bearing there too. But using new gear plate. They are getting. Low on supply. 

Attachments

Images (3)
  • 20191209_170801
  • 20191209_170752
  • 20191209_171640

Add Reply

Post
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×