Need suggestions for edge of train table using plexiglass side barriers.

We use a sandwich method at our club. A board, a spacer strip of wood at the bottom and then another board.

Velcro to the board and material cover.

PS: we use thicker plastic. One eight seems flimsy.

What is the intended use? A public display layout or a home installation? 

As mentioned, the table wood, then a small spacer strip the width of the plexiglass, then a larger capture piece of either aluminum or wood. Have used 1/8" thick X 6" wide mounted 2" below table top as a retainer for capturing derailments, though it might not stop a human determined to cause issues.

If there is a small "lip" on the side of the table to attach to, you could use binder clips or small clamps.

Hard to see on this unfinished shelf RR area--but I wedged or "sandwiched" the barrier fence between a piece of window stop and short blocks. I bought 4' x 8' x 1/8" plexiglass sheets from Lowe's (back in the '90s) and they cut it on their glass cutter into  3-1/2" x 8' strips for free.

I intentionally "stringlined" so derailed hoppers heavily loaded with wrapped pennies up on the 3rd level of the stair-stepped track would tumble down against the fence. It held up without fail from 1992 until dismantled in 2008.  

Thank you for the good suggestions. My layout is in my home. So I don't need the plexiglass to be too high or too thick. Just got back from Home Depot. I browsed the hardware area to see what was available. Also they don't cut plexiglass. So thank you Dewey For the tip on Lowe's cutting it. I will go to the one in Flemington, Nj to see if they  still offer the service if I purchase it there.

Have you priced lexan/polycarbonate? You can use common metal working tools including every type of saw, hand or power to cut or drill it. Also it will bend to a much tighter radius without breaking. 

Our club uses a similar system as Don. Screw a stop strip slightly thicker than the plastic to you bench work about 1" from the top. Then screw a fascia piece over that stop strip level with the benchtop. That will leave a channel your plastic will fit into. 

Pete

A module with a simple 3" deep insert slot for your material.  I used a deeper slot so as to get a more secure grab.  Your mileage may vary.

I agree with the use of poly-carbonate, the thickness of the material is much thinner than 1/8" and thus less obtrusive. My layout does not have the round edges as Marks does, but this material can be bent 90 degrees. I cut It 4" wide and then using 1 x 2" cut a rabbit on the 1x2 about 3/4" deep to receive the poly carbonate. These were than mounted to the edge of the layout, with screws, and the plastic inserted into the slot. It's very secure and can be removed by lifting it out to landscape or for taking pictures, nothing to unscrew or unclamp. You can observe on the attached video.

Ray

Rayin"S" posted:

I agree with the use of poly-carbonate, the thickness of the material is much thinner than 1/8" and thus less obtrusive. My layout does not have the round edges as Marks does, but this material can be bent 90 degrees.

Ray

"poly-carbonate" "Plexiglass" My guess is everyone is talking about the material their local hardware and big box store sells to replace screen door windows rather than a specific product.

Mark, banjoflyer

Viewing the pictures of your layout, l would very much like to see a video, if you might have one or more. Please do share with us.

Ray

BobbyD posted:

Rayin"S" posted:

I agree with the use of poly-carbonate, the thickness of the material is much thinner than 1/8" and thus less obtrusive. My layout does not have the round edges as Marks does, but this material can be bent 90 degrees.

Ray

"poly-carbonate" "Plexiglass" My guess is everyone is talking about the material their local hardware and big box store sells to replace screen door windows rather than a specific product.

They are two different plastics. polycarbonate is the generic name for Dupont's "Lexan". Plexglass is also a trade name, the generic form is acrylic.

Plexiglas is much harder and easily chips when cutting with a saw or drilling holes. To do it right you need special types of saw blades and drills. Lexan can be worked like aluminum sheet. It can be sheared, sawed or drilled with tools most homeowners have on hand.

Pete

BOBBYD,

Not sure if the material is the same as the big box stores, l purchased the material at Midland Plastics, it came as a 4x8 sheet that they rolled up into a 12 or 15 inch roll for me to transport. It is labeled MAKROLON by Bayer.

Ray

Rayin"S" posted:

BOBBYD,

Not sure if the material is the same as the big box stores, l purchased the material at Midland Plastics, it came as a 4x8 sheet that they rolled up into a 12 or 15 inch roll for me to transport. It is labeled MAKROLON by Bayer.

Ray

That may be what you purchased. The ease of getting what I want without purchasing multiples of 32 square feet I'll never use in my lifetime led me to the local hard ware store and big box chain. Easy, cheap, and back in half an hour with product in hand.