Need tips using Gorilla Glue and Korber kits

Could use a disposable paint brush.

Dick

That's why I don't use Gorilla glue. And it doesn't really adhere to the resin very well. it gets hard and brittle and you can just break it off. Just wait til it dries completely and you can most likely just break those pieces off with small needle nose pliers

There are many different types of glue each suitable for a particular use. The original Gorilla Glue is not a universal glue. In this case, I suggest using  CA . Yes, Gorilla Glue makes a Super Glue.

Pete,

I think some of the recommendations here were to use Gorilla Glue Super Glue, as Dennis mentioned, not the original Gorilla Glue.

I have found only limited uses for the original in modeling mainly due to the expansion factor.

Jim

FWIW: I find Gorilla brand Super Glue to be a particularly good CA for modeling.  You would think they'd all be the same, but apparently not.

I find Gorilla Glue Super Glue GEL to have superior adhesion qualities compared to a lot of others. I use it a lot, and a little goes a very long way.  The only drawback, is you have to hold the parts quite still for about 30 seconds for the glue to set.

I find regular Gorilla Super Glue is nothing special. In fact, it is not as good as Zap-A-Gap CA.

 As for the original Gorilla Glue, I use it primarily on large size construction projects such as gluing foam sheets together for scenery. I would never use it for any modeling work.

To answer BTP's original question, I regularly use Walthers Goo to hold window frames (and window glass) in place. Do not use any type of CA for the glass, as it will cause fogging.

In all cases, no matter what the adhesive, I put a drop on a piece of cardboard (I use the coasters from various bars and restaurants), and then apply the glue with a toothpick.  That gives far greater control. 

And, be sure to test everything on scraps first.

John Sethian posted:

I find regular Gorilla Super Glue is nothing special. In fact, it is not as good as Zap-A-Gap CA.

As I understand it, "Zap-a-Gap" is comparable to Super Glue Gel. Comparing it to regular Gorilla Super Glue is apples-and-oranges. Thin formula CA has its uses, but I find it difficult to use in modeling, no matter the brand.

Gorilla Super Glue... with theblue top. It says "Impact-Tough" on the label. It dries with some flex ability to it, unlike standard CA which dries hard and brittle. I use the blue top stuff all the time because of it's impact tough characteristics.

I use Weld on 16 from Tap Plastics, good stuff have never broken a glued joint on any building kit

with this glue.

DennisB posted:

There are many different types of glue each suitable for a particular use. The original Gorilla Glue is not a universal glue. In this case, I suggest using  CA . Yes, Gorilla Glue makes a Super Glue.

Thanks Dennis!!

Avanti posted:

John Sethian posted:

I find regular Gorilla Super Glue is nothing special. In fact, it is not as good as Zap-A-Gap CA.

As I understand it, "Zap-a-Gap" is comparable to Super Glue Gel. Comparing it to regular Gorilla Super Glue is apples-and-oranges. Thin formula CA has its uses, but I find it difficult to use in modeling, no matter the brand.

Zap-A-Gap is available is thin, medium and thick viscosity.

I never use a thin formulation - medium with a fine tip applicator works well and is easier to apply.  Mixing it with Goo makes it a lot better.......

Mixing it with Goo makes it impossible to separate. Any CA kicker should help set up the Gorilla Glue Super Gel.

Jim Policastro posted:

Pete,

I think some of the recommendations here were to use Gorilla Glue Super Glue, as Dennis mentioned, not the original Gorilla Glue.

I have found only limited uses for the original in modeling mainly due to the expansion factor.

Jim

Jim, Thanks for the clarification!! I will pick some up. 

I have built many Korber buildings using the blue top Gorilla glue that Rich from Korber suggests along with wood strip inside the joints. Have had great results! Just sayin!

Pete:

I have built quite a few Korber kits and went through a lot of different glues with some good and some very bad results. I have finally settled on Gorilla Super Glue with the blue tip with the addition of hot glue (Alan Graziano) along any inside seams I can get to that won't be seen.

I have also have 'issues' with glue run out - not only super glue but also plastic cement. They leave a shiny film behind but this is not be worried about. With super glue I wipe off the excess. With plastic cement I just let it dry. After spraying the completed kit with Dullcote it all pretty much disappears.

Joe