New Layout - Construction Phase

Richie, Nice job on the layout for the grandchildren.  I always love photographs of little kids.  Sometimes they ham it up, and sometimes they are most serious!

Thanks, Mark.

They seem to genuinely enjoy running trains and will hopefully maintain that interest for a long, long time.

I think I have a good design mocked up for the industrial area of the layout. Each industry will have its own siding access and never be held up by another industry's use of the siding. The only change from the attached pic's is that I think I'm going to divide the intermodal track into two tracks with a Wye. I should also be able to wind a dirt/gravel road through everything with only one track crossover.

P.S. - Which side of the Morton's Salt Factory is the front and which is the back ?

Richie C. posted:

Starting demolition of my old table top track in preparation of a new around-the-room layout with a separate staging yard. The layout will be about 10' leg x 12' across x 14' leg and will be similar to the attached SCARM plan (thanks to everyone on the Forum who helped with the design). The layout is located in a "train" room in the basement and there will be a separate 4' x 10' staging yard on the other side of a wall that separates the train room from the rest of the playroom.

The wall is not structural and I will be cutting a large part out of it to be able to see from one area to the other. I'll be running Legacy (from the old layout) and adding DCS and Wi-Fi.

I hated to take the old layout down, but this one will be bigger and offer more "playability".  I will keep posting on my progress as we go along.

 

End of an era! Long ago I copied your layout for my initial road. Many thanks!!

LaramieJoe posted:

Richie C. posted:

Starting demolition of my old table top track in preparation of a new around-the-room layout with a separate staging yard. The layout will be about 10' leg x 12' across x 14' leg and will be similar to the attached SCARM plan (thanks to everyone on the Forum who helped with the design). The layout is located in a "train" room in the basement and there will be a separate 4' x 10' staging yard on the other side of a wall that separates the train room from the rest of the playroom.

The wall is not structural and I will be cutting a large part out of it to be able to see from one area to the other. I'll be running Legacy (from the old layout) and adding DCS and Wi-Fi.

I hated to take the old layout down, but this one will be bigger and offer more "playability".  I will keep posting on my progress as we go along.

 

End of an era! Long ago I copied your layout for my initial road. Many thanks!!

No problem, Doc - my practice is limited to criminal law, estates and trusts and domestic law - no copyright infringement !

Final design of the industry area with a wye in the intermodal section. I'll probably extend each of those tracks by about 15". I actually have room for the Lionel operating sawmill next to the coaling station, so that will probably go on my list, as well.

I removed all the structures and buildings and took the track off the table (after carefully diagramming each loop, so I know how it all goes back together). I had time to screw down the plywood on the long (right side) of the layout and then frame and cut out two access hatches on that side. I should be able to screw down the plywood on the left side of the layout tonight and then frame and cut the access hatch on that side. I'll post pics of the hatches later this week.  

Richie, I’m glad you are finding room for the sawmill and coaling station!  I never had any operating accessories when I was a kid, but I think they help give our trains more purpose and add to the fun!

You're right - I had the Lionel log dump flatcar, playground and yard tower plus the MTH gateman on the old layout and they will definitely have a place on the new layout along with some new operating accessories to add to the fun factor.

Finally got the plywood glued and screwed down on the main part of the layout and three access hatches cut out and two power strips mounted.

I like the 24" Stanley power strips because the plugs are mounted so the ground hole is perpendicular to the strip and if you have a large cord to plug in to the strip it typically won't block the plug next to it and render it useless; the plugs are mounted several inches apart so whatever you plug in doesn't also block the plug next to it; the strip has built in mounting holes at each end; and it was on sale at Amazon for $19.95.  

Next up is installing a small plywood sheet to mount the electronics (TIU, SER 2, distribution blocks, etc.) on. It will probably go below the power strip on the left. Should be able to get that up and the electronics mounted this weekend. The top of the movable cart will hold the Z-4K, CW-80 (for accessories) and Legacy base.

Yes, I see what you mean about the outlet strips.  That is a feature that seems so hard to come by! Thank you for the tip!!

No problem, Mark. I wasn't thrilled with the lemon yellow color but the outside perimeter of the whole layout will eventually be covered so it won't show.

Got the electronics mounted and hooked up this past weekend on a plywood board and installed under the layout. Much easier to do on top of the layout first rather than from underneath.

I know ..... the first pic shows 3 distribution blocks and the second shows 4. It's not trick photography - I forgot I had an extra block and had to go back and remount them.

Two of the 12 terminal blocks will be used for star track wiring - one for the inner loop off one handle of the Z-4k and the other block for the outer loop and yard off the other handle. The 24 terminal block and other 12 terminal block will be used for accessories.

I'm waiting on a bunch of banana plugs, which should be delivered today, to make the final connections. The inner loop will be run off Fixed 1 and the outer loop and yard off Fixed 2, both with 14 gauge wire from the transformer to the TIU and then to the blocks. Then 16 gauge from the blocks to the track.

After that, should be ready to lay down and paint the 1" foam tops.

Very neat work

Thanks. The old layout I took down in order to build this one was a maze of wires and I vowed to do this one a little neater and label everything as much as possible.

I like your new design as well. Does it make any sense to put a switch into the green track just before it splits into the yard so that it could connect with the blue track or is the blue track running in the opposite direction ?

Thank you for the suggestion.  I think the yard lead would have to be shifted up a lot to allow an 042 curve.  Basically it would be a eye.  I can go out the current direction and around the loop to go the way as it is now.

Richie - are you suggesting something like the lower curved red line?

Mark - the straight(?) red line is an alternative configuration for that spur depending on what buildings you want to put there, if any.

Yes, Dave, or, if possible,  maybe even a little further back on the green track so it could connect to the main part of the blue line rather than the siding.

Seems like it might give you more options.

Okay Richie, now I see what you mean.  It does seem to give a little better separation of the yard from the main line.  

Dave, yes I see about the top red line.  It may be better to use the red line location for some yard building.  I hadn’t thought about it, just that the yard is a nice addition.

 Thank you both!

Mark/Richie, here's one way it could be done using a GG O42 switch, the footprint of the Ross switch is larger.

That does look rather slick!  I like it! Thank you Richie and Dave.

Lookin' good, Dave and Mark.

Operationally it allows you to pull into the yard lead to back into the storage yard rather that pull into the reversing loop to back in. I'll go ahead and add the changes to the current file and post the updated file.

Haven't been able to get a lot done on the layout the past two weeks - too many family obligations and other stuff to do instead. I also had to buy, hook-up and install a new, inexpensive flat screen TV for over where the storage yard in the other room will go. Once the yard is built, there won't be any room to get in to hang it, so it has to go in now. Just using OTA for now and works great with limited channels - not sure I want to spend the money every month for an extra cable box.

I was finally able to get the DCS WiFi upgrade to load onto my Android device - didn't do anything different, it just "clicked" this last time and loaded. I suspect it was a GooglePLay issue. Hooked it up to the MTH Network and all seems good for now. 

I was able to cut the foam sheets to size and lay them out since the last time, so we're making slow progress. The Z Stuff crossing gates also arrived - the instruction sheets and diagrams look like you need a secondary college degree to follow them, but I'm sure I'll get it sorted out and tested when the time comes to install them.

Richie, nice progress!

one suggestion on the pipes is to build a  Factory or other industrial plant around the pipes and use the pipes as smokestacks. Paint them to match the factory, and paint the top black to disappear in to the ceiling.  There was an article in OGR by bill bramledge on this concept.

Vacations, building a new deck and family responsibilities have slowed down construction of the new layout this summer, but we are getting back on track (no pun intended).

Glued the foam down with construction adhesive; cut out the access hatches in the foam; laid out roads (hard to see); mounted the Pennsy stone wall; painted and turfed some of the layout near the edges; and mounted the building fronts to the wall. 

I found some graffiti decals and applied a few to the building fronts. The fronts are essentially photos from e-bay that I mounted on 1/4" foam board. They looked a little too "shiny", so I sprayed all the building fronts with Krylon matte finish (like dullcoat). Next time around I would probably stagger them with 1/2" foam to get more "definition", but the price was definitely right.

Next up is making a mountain in the corner before finishing painting the layout and the streets and roads and laying track . It needs to be light and readily removable, so I'm thinking of using WS shaper sheets and see how it goes.

I'm glad to see you got back to the layout!  The building fronts look good.  I like the name of Spat's Shoes!!

Looking real nice.

Thanks, guys.

Was able to get started on the corner mountain this weekend. Used the shaper sheet and plastered over it to harden it up and then "washed" with various acrylic colors to get the effect I wanted. I then plastered on some rock out-croppings and will "wash" them in as well.

Next up will be groundcover, a few trees and a waterfall and we're done.

Thanks for lookin'.

          looking GOOD 

Didn't get anything done on the layout this past weekend - took a long weekend trip from Boston to Boothbay Harbor, Maine to savor the four main food groups - steamed lobster, baked stuffed lobster, boiled lobster and lobster rolls.

While there, we stopped at the Railway Museum in Boothbay and had a great time. They've re-created a small New England village complete with train stations (2), town hall, fire house, hardware store, stable, dry goods store, etc. The rail system is the old, narrow gauge (2 foot) system and they have about 1/2 mile of track laid out to ride with two passenger cars. The engine was a 1938 German steam Henschel which the engineer was happy to open the firebox for a look inside. They also have a rare Baldwin works narrow gauge locomotive they are in the process of restoring.

In addition there's a small train museum and shop; antique car building (about 50 cars, including a 1937 Packard dual cowl phaeton); and a building with a pretty nice HO model layout. I picked up a spike and piece of rail for display purposes in my house.

Too much to list but, if you're ever in the downeast region of Maine, it's definitely worth a look. 

https://railwayvillage.org/

That place looks really great, Richie!!  The engine, passenger car, and station look in tip top shape!

Yes, it's really well done, in great condition and well laid out. I had also visited the Portland, Maine narrow gauge museum and train ride two years ago and it was also in great shape. Their ride was a lot longer but there was no re-created "village".

The "chick" with the sunglasses and the "everytime we go somewhere there's trains involved; we better be going to an outlet store mall next"  look on her face in the passenger car is my better half.

Hope your layout is coming along nicely.

At least she got on the train!!  I guess she doesn’t get it about trains like we don’t get it about outlets malls!!!

My layout is at a standstill.  I have had too much to do for elderly relatives this summer.  Thank you for asking!

Could you tell me where you got the interior store window pictures that you used on your building flats, thanks. Jim

Hi Jim,

The flats are actually 2D photo sheets that you can purchase in sets of 8-10. I bought one of store fronts and one of building backs and mounted them on 1/4" foam board (I would use 1/2" next time for more depth) and then sprayed the photos with a clear matte finish. They vary in height and width, but are photo-paper thin. The interior pictures are part of the photos and not separate.

They are available on e-bay and amazon (I forget which one I used) but the link below shows the store fronts I bought.

I suppose you could cut out just the interior part of the photo and use them.

https://www.amazon.com/Model-T...F3MCTGSJ0SQ9ATHP54XG

Thanks for the reply but I already have the building fronts I’m just looking for pictures to place in the store front windows, I know forum members have mentioned sources for this type of thing in the past but I can’t seem to locate anything. Jim

Finally had time to finish the mountain and get the main part of the layout painted and turfed and streets and roads painted and striped.

For those interested, the mountain is made out of two WS Shaper Sheets cut to length and stapled together to form one bigger sheet and then molded into shape and covered with Shaper Sheet plaster to form a hard surface. The mountain is basically free standing on an access hatch in the corner so it can be easily removed and has a small one inch "lip" at the bottom to help it stand on the layout. It's tilted back into the corner slightly and there's a small dowel butted into the base of the corner to keep it from tipping backwards.

Several rock molds were used with Hydrocal Plaster to form the rock faces and then glued onto the shaper sheet. It was then painted/washed with a variety of acrylic paints to get the color and texture I was looking for and various "shaker" green and yellow turfs applied. Trees were stuck through the sheet and held in place with Scenic Glue and various bushes, rocks and lichen were also applied with Scenic Glue. The waterfalls are made from Realistic Water and thinned, white acrylic paint and the running water is Modge-Podge highlighted with the same paint.

The "wooden" retaining wall is made of sections from Scenic Express glued together with construction adhesive and weathered with a combination of ink wash and powders. I filled the gap between the wall and the mountain with another shaper sheet which I stapled to the backside of the retaining wall so they could easily be removed from the layout if I need to use the access hatch. That shaper sheet was then backfilled with turf, bushes, rocks, etc. and the wall covered with some hanging lichen. Not sure I'm happy with the red tree, but overall I am pleased with the results.

The roads on the layout were masked off and then the layout ( 1" foam over plywood) was painted with an earth brown paint mix from Lowes I had used for my old layout and sprinkled with various turfs while still wet. After drying, the road tape was removed and the edges re-masked and painted a grey/silver and then striped with a white paint pen when dry. The road on the right side "L" abruptly ends because that's where the industrial/intermodal section will be and I'm not sure at this point exactly where the roads (probably "dirt" roads) will go. I can always add more roads later, so no issues.

Next up will be roughly laying out the Fastrack so I can figure out where to make my drops.

Was able to get all of the track laid on the main layout, as well as the bridge and trestles. I added 22uh chokes to all the FT switches in order to avoid any interference once the DCS system is operational.

I hooked up my Z4K and Legacy to be able to test each loop of the track for loose connections and other electrical gremlins and ran the new Lionel Legacy SF F-3 ABA set as a test mule. After working out a few kinks, everything ran smoothly with no breaks or stoppages. With the Z4K set at 18 volts, I was getting consistent 17.5's all around the track even with just one power connection point, so once I add my drops it should be pretty much bullet-proof.

The switch at the bottom left of the TRACK 1 photo will eventually connect to a yard that will be built on the other side of the wall on the left. There is a corresponding switch at the upper left, so the track will basically make a large loop around the yard with switches and wyes for about 8-9 sidings.

The area with the interior sidings in the TRACK 4 photo is where the industrial and intermodal sections will be located.

Richie, Congratulations on getting some track wired up and working.  I do not recall if this has been addressed, but I want to ask about the table covering.  Is that a Woodland Scenics or Scenic Express product?  It really helps make the bare table look sceniced right away!  Do you plan on adding other land formations on top of it in places?

Hi Mark - thanks for the input - it's getting there.

The table covering is 1" green/blue foam board (Lowes) glued down with construction adhesive over 1/2" plywood. Anywhere the foam sheets meet, I tape and cover with a good, sticky duct tape that won't lift off. The process I use is to then paint the foam (and tape) with a generic dark earth brown latex paint (Lowes, too) with a cheap brush and, while still wet, sprinkle a mix of green and yellow fine and coarse turf from different shaker bottles onto the wet paint from about 2' up off the layout. The duct tape also takes the paint and turf very well. That way, when the paint dries, the turf will be stuck to the layout - no need to go over with scenic glue spray, although you can if you want. I do about a 4' x 6' section at a time so the paint stays wet, being careful not to get any turf on the next dry section. If I do, I just blow it back onto the wet section. That way you're not painting over loose turf.

I'm at my office, but I'm 99% sure the turf shaker bottles are dark green and yellow from Woodland Scenics. The process is so random it typically comes out looking good. I usually put the green down first and then lighten and blend it out with the yellow. I mask the streets and roads off first with duct tape and, once the paint dries, I go back and remove the duct tape from the roads and then mask the road edges with green painter's frog tape and paint the roads (I like silver/grey) and add the white stripes with a paint pen and yardstick. The painters tape is just sticky enough to give a good edge so the silver paint doesn't bleed onto the turf, but not so sticky as to pull the turf up off the layout when removed.

Yes - there will be more ground cover, trees, bushes, rocks, etc. once I get to that stage. I like creating scenes and adding and weathering structures when I get the time almost as much as running the trains themselves, so I tend to really fill the layout which doesn't allow a lot of the ground cover to show through, so this is a quick and easy process to get everything going. You can see it from my old layout on which I used the same process. I was able to cut out and save the pond, hill and waterfall and I will insert that somewhere into the new layout when the time comes.

Hope this helps !