New MTH 4-6-0 Steamer Light went out

If you are running in DCS go to the the hand held control and try pushing the headlight button.Some times  it gets turned of with a slip of the finger . good luck

When you first start up let the capacitor charge up for 30 secs before trying to operate the engine.  As mentioned there is a headlight button to turn off and on with DCS.  If not using DC you can do a feature reset with the transformer.  One Whistle and 5 Bells in sequences.  The instruction manual discusses this.  G

I checked the user guide (as did you), and the companion (which I'd buy immediately after I had the money and desire to get a full DCS system). There is a great chapter in the DCSRC, but the content of the manual, as a whole, will taunt you into buying a full DCS system , much in the same way the user guide shows you cool stuff, you COULD do

To the point. The only reference to lights in either resource, refers to the SU/SD button. Try the reset described on page 16 of the user guide. If that fails, I suggest powering everything off. Disconnect power to the receiver. remove the batteries from the remote and then power everything up fresh. . Wait the 20 seconds recommended at startup and toggle the SU/SD switch a few times. Make sure you are close to the receiver and allow 10 seconds, just to be sure the command was accepted. If the lights don't come back, and everything else does, I think you have a lighting problem. That would be a bummer, but don't let it discourage you.

Most likely the bulb is loose in the socket from all the vibration from shipping. Remove the 4 body screws and tighten the screw in bulb.

It sounds to me like your engine needs to have a feature reset performed.  I had the same problem with a PS3 locomotive from a starter set.  Only problem is that you need to at least have an MTH Z controller with a horn and bell button (or any transformer with those buttons) to do the reset yourself.  If you don't have one, I would suggest going to a local hobby shop and asking if they can reset it for you.

Thanks for all the responses guys!  Getting others' perspective is a big help with me being so new to all this.

Poppy's and GGG, sorry I don't think my 'wee-hours' post was as clear as it could have been (I work nights), but I only have the "DCS Lite" or DCS Remote Commander setup, the very basic type that comes in the MTH R-T-R starter sets.  So there isn't a "lights" button that I'm aware of (unless there is some secret combination of buttons on the Remote Commander that accesses that command).

I did try the feature reset as GGG, Marty and drelo suggested, but I tried it with the little remote commander (remote) so I don't think it took, and am guessing it's like drelo suggested...feature reset is intended to be done with a Z type transformer bell & horn button combo, or with true, full DCS which I don't have.  I do have a z750 though, so I'll give that a shot today.

I also realize the feature reset is not the same as the 'full factory reset' Barry describes in the companion (I'm finally ordering that today, even though I do not have a full DCS system...as Marty mentioned, I've wanted to avoid temptation to this point), but not sure it requires a full factory reset at this point...not sure.

I'm leaning towards Chuck & Marty's diagnosis...light bulb issue.  Everything else seems to work fine.  I tried giving several seconds even up to a few minutes for capacitor charging, start-up/shut-down cycles.  I tried disconnecting and letting everything sit.  I 'carefully' tried unplugging and replugging the drawbar a couple times.  I even pulled out my other 'dcs lite' (from my other MTH PS3 starter set) and swapped it with this one...still no luck.

The set shipped parcel post from Massachusetts or Maryland, and likely had a bumpy ride as some of the carton packing indicates, but no obvious major damage other than this light.  It did work when the engine was first started, and although the horn did stay 'stuck on' again at some point until I hit the horn button again, I'm hoping this is not preliminary indication of a board issue...fingers crossed.  I can't see spending the $30 it would cost to return the entire set (not that anyone suggested it...just kicking around ideas if turns out to be more than a loose or blown bulb, and don't know that the distributor would ship a full set replacement any differently given the cost.  Dealers around here seem to build the shipping + some, into the cost, so mail order was the most reasonable way to purchase...guess some of this might be the potential downside of that approach.

Amidst all the different attempts to get the light to come back on, I did put the engine through it's paces (sound, no sound, fast, slow, direction, coupler, smoke, no smoke, PFA, etc, etc, and other than the two times the horn stuck on until I hit the horn button again, everything else worked fine.

I'm not thinking this warrants shipping the engine to MTH either, but I am instictively a bit relunctant to open a 'brand new' engine up (also in part because I'm new to all this myself).  However, I'm thinking the best course (if the light does not come back) might be to just register my warranty and contact MTH about a replacement bulb just in case, and go ahead and take the top off to check the bulb.  What do you guys think?

Many thanks,

Robert

Guys,

He said it's PS3.  No battery in engine or tender to worry about.

Oldpartsmaker

There has been no battery reference, just the thought that something, somewhere is loose or failing.

I forgot you said PS-3, so yes it would be a LED and not a bulb.....my mistake.

 It wouldn't be the first time a LED has gone bad. If was working before and not now, my guess is the LED is bad.

I may have missed it, but did you try the feature reset with your Z-750 yet?

Thanks Liam, that is a big help knowing that up front.

Hi drelo, no I haven't managed to get to it yet, but will before the night is out...chores keep getting in the way of my fun.  Hoping it does work as I'm running out of options before diving in or sending it to MTH.  I found this in a thread earlier after some searching, but I'm not experiencing anything like this member's video...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YwAK-AGYVoY

It's still just seems to be only the light for now...one of those smaller irritations that doesn't really affect all around running, yet nags at me.  I guess it could be worse     and so far the horn hasn't had a single issue besides those two times on the older remote batteries last night.

Liam, why did you have to get into your PS3?

I went in it to replace the smoke unit wick. You will find after a while when you operate your smoke it might smell a little burnt and the smoke output won't be as good as it is when you take it out of the box. I took it apart very carefully then took off the 4 screws of the smoke unit then replaced the wick with pink insulation. Its a simple procedure but should be done carefully. Hope this helps.

Thanks Liam...I missed that the first time.

I'm more confused than ever.  I hooked up the z760, turned up the throttle just till I saw the lockon light brighten.  The light came on for a second, and then went right out, and no start up sounds.  Turned the throttle up a bit and nothing.  Aware of the anti-jackrabbit, I unplugged the transformer from the track and let it sit.

Tried again a few minutes later and this time I got start up sounds but no light response, then immediately after the start up sounds wrap up the horn starts blowing and won't stop unless I hit the direction button??  So tried the 1 horn - 5 bell combo, no response.  Raise the power a bit to make sure it is in neutral and the horn starts blowing again and won't stop.  Finally realize dropping the throttle to zero stops the horn but also initiates shutdown.

Try again and basically the same results except at one point I did get the engine to move a bit as I raised the throttle but with the horn constantly blaring.  So direction seems to make the horn stop constantly blowing, but if I try to raise the throttle for movement the horn goes right back to constantly blowing.

So I swapped it back to the 50w Remote Commander and it went back to working as before.  Seems to respond to all commands on the little remote except the light never comes on, and if I hit the horn on the small remote it sounds and shuts off like normal.  Maybe I've got more wrong than I thought??  I seem to remember reading where Barry mentioned corrupt sound files causing problems, but wondering more and more about a pinched harness or connection.  I'm more concerned and confused than before when it only seemed like the light was out.

The DCS-DCC switch on the tender does not really matter when running conventional AC does it?  It's set on DCS as I did not notice any recommendation either way in the manual, unless I missed something.  Suddenly things are looking worse...and I'm at a loss.  I appreciate y'all trying to help me diagnose this.

Robert

PS: So I unplugged and let it sit.  Hooked back up the z750 and turned the throttle up till the lockon light just barely lit.  Nothing for a few seconds, then the light comes on...stays on for about 3-5 seconds then it goes out and the start up sounds start playing.  Did the 1horn 5bell button combo again and with the first press of the horn it starts blowing and won't stop.  If I hit the horn button on the z750 with any power to the track the horn starts blowing and won't stop unless I hit direction, hitting the horn button a seond time after it has started blowing does nothing...Ugh!

Do you have a lighted caboose or other lighted car with the train? I had the same issues with my PS3 and PS2 engines in conventional (no remote) without a lighted car. When you press the whistle button or set the throttle on high the whistle won't stop going until power is interrupted. However with the remote all was well with no lighted car. If its not the lighted car it might be a bad controller, I remember a couple weeks ago somebody had the same problem and it was his controller. Add a lighted caboose or other car and report back to us on what you find. Hope this helps. 

Thanks for the follow up Liam!  Despite Marty's encouragement, I was certainly feeling a bit discouraged yesterday.

I believe I came across the thread you referenced doing some searching last night.  I'm just wondering why the z750 controller has not shown any signs of problems running my conventional Williams and Lionel engines if it's defective.

After several attempts working the z750 throttle, any amount of power to the track made the steamer's "whistle" blow constantly  (I had been calling it the horn above), and at points pushing another button made the engine act irratically (bell making the engine stop, direction making the "whistle" blow again).

I also dug up an older thread where someone had a very similar problem with a PS1 or PS2 engine (running conventional with a z750), and it was suggested the 'newer' electornic controllers "chopped sine wave" may not be compatible with his engine.  The user manual states the engine is compatible the z750, and after being thoroughly frustrated last night I ran my Williams conventional diesel a bit with my new RMT cars to get this all out of my system  and it peformed flawlessly.

The light came on very briefly at one point in conventional, and then came on again later before startup sounds as normal but then never came back on after start up sounds ended.  The engine tried to move in conventional always with the whistle blowing and never in proportion to the throttle, and I could not get the 'feature reset' to take.

I'm now thinking it's a pinched harness, problematic connection or damaged board (possibly from shipping).  It may not be the wisest decision as it will cost me $30-$40 to return, but I've decided to send it back since it did this right out of the box.  It likely won't be the only electricla gremlin I encounter in the hobby, but it's worth it to me not to be so frustrated this early starting out.

I do greatly appreciate all of y'alls suggestions, advice and tips.

Robert

Well I'm very happy to report I have a correctly working light and horn...unfortunately or fortunately (as I prefer to see it) on a new replacement MTH 4-6-0 Pennsylvania engine and set.  I'm pretty sure the other had a very rough ride via parcel post or simply was defective from MTH (wire pinch, board, draw bar or some such).  I am still out the return shipping on the other set, plus I have a not completely resolved 'dispute' (I contacted the first seller and we'll just say it was very disappointing, and I'll leave it at that).

However, I went back to Mario's Trains where I got my N/S SD70ACe starter set and have decided I'm not looking back.  Mario gave me such a great deal on the repeat business that I'll mitigate some of my shipping losses in the end.  I apologize for the second plug I've made for him tonight and I have no association with him other than these two purchases, but they were so responsive to my inquiries that I feel I have to give credit where credit is due (even after I mentioned getting a defective loco from another seller, still didn't name names, even to them...I don't think this bay seller was associated with the forum though).

I'm mechanically inclined enough I would like to believe I would have just jumped right in and taken the boiler off in just about any other circumstance.  However, given the problem was on an immediate out of the box experience...I'm already glad I decided to punt.  I'm sure I'll have an opportunity to get to work on these new engines at some point...but I better not tempt fate  

I do still need to find out if my 4 amp z750 is in fact compatible with these newer PS3 engines, but all in all I'm glad to be able to focus back on layout and just running

Thanks again for y'alls help!

Robert

One last thing regarding the problem with that first engine...this was the thread I came across at some point and then had trouble finding again.  It describes eerily similar symptoms to what I was experiencing when I tried to run conventional with that first one.  Although I never did investigate it thoroughly, and it didn't act the same when running DCSRC, I thought'd I paste the link here for future reference...(this is the reason I was thinking board damage during shipping)...

https://ogrforum.com/d...ent/2415514336852445

That's great to hear! Mario's trains is a great place, I shop there all the time online. Hope you enjoy your new fully working engine 

Your Z-750 should be fine with any PS2 or PS3 engine. It was only some of the PS1 engines that did not like the chopped sine waves of modern controllers.

Glad to hear your problem is somewhat covered, despite  the deal with the auction vendor.

I will say that I rarely even look at that site for engines or sets. Sure, they can offer great prices, but they are not really into the hobby, they are selling stuff. They don't want issues with it.

This is why I buy almost all my trains at the LHS.

He gives decent prices and great service. You can't beat that.

Have Fun!