new to forum, need advice

what kind of budget would we be looking at as far as a loco, power, control system?

All you need to get started is a DCS set, product #50-1001, consisting of a DCS Remote and TIU. You can see the set on MTH's web site here. MSRP for a DCS set is $349.95.

If you decide to control accessories and switch tracks from your DCS Remote, as well, you can purchase an AIU, product #50-1004. You can see the AIU on MTH's web site here. MSRP for an AIU is $119.95.

DCS engines can be purchased new starting at $299.95 MSRP. Transformer prices are all over the lot.

A less expensive alternative is to purchase an MTH ready to Run set with a  PS3 engine. It will come a PS3 engine, a few cars, a controller than allows you to operate any one DCS engine, a transformer, and a loop of track. MSRP for these sets starts at approx. $300.00  and is considered by almost everyone to represent the "best bang for the buck" in DCS. 

I also strongly suggest that you purchase a copy of The DCS Companion 3rd Edition. This will allow you to get up to speed quickly with DCS and also maximize your DCS experience.

Everything that you need to know about DCS is all in “The DCS Companion 3rd Edition!" This book is available from many fine OGR advertisers and forum sponsors, or as an eBook or a printed book at MTH's web store!

That is a tough question to answer without specifics.  The DCS system costs approximately $300.00.  I've seen it sold for less/more.  The transformer, if you plan on running more than 1 train at a time especially ones with lighted passenger cars you will need the Z4000 transformer.  That will cost you $400+.  The brand new PS3 engines range from $399 to $1600 depending on which one you get.

I'm not trying to scare you away, or anyone else, but you are looking at more than a grand, unless you are lucky, for those three things.

If you look at it like that's a lot of money all at once think about the years of pleasure it will provide you.  I've had my Z4000 for 5 years now and paid $400 for it.  So it has cost me about $80 bucks a year to have it so far, way under a dollar a day...and it is still going strong. 

...thanks all for your responses, great advice in helping us get started.

As others have stated a DCS TIU and Remote will run you around $300. If you are serious about getting more MTH DCS engines in the future, I would get the full DCS system #50-1001 as Barry mentioned above. 

The MTH Railking line is more in line with the size of your LC/LC+ items, or not quite to scale. A nice Railking Imperial engine can be had for around $300 with full PS3 electronics. The MTH Premier line is scale size (1:48) and those do start out at around $400 or more and up, same PS3 electronics, but they are larger in size.

For power the best bang for you buck would be a Lionel Powerhouse 180 (180 watts/10amps @ 18 vac) for around $90 street price. Unfortunately, they are very scarce right now and they are not expecting more stock for at least a few months. You can connect these right to the TIU and then on to the track. NExt best thing to get by with until these are avaliable would be the MTH Z1000 bricks, also about $90 street price, but only 100 watts/approx 6 amps @ 18 vac. THe Z1000 does have a 14 vac accessory connection. The Lionel PH-180s also have a much better circuit breaker than the Z1000, they trip much faster.

Also as Barry said above, the MTH started sets are arguable the best value to get you going. They are as he described, engine, a few cars, power supply (most likely a Z500 - 50 watts) and a DCS Remote Commander which doesn't have full DCS control capabilities, it's a slimmed down version. Anyway, some more food for thought here.

...thanks - I was going to pick up a Lionel Powerhouse once they were available. Yes - the 50-1001 would allow me to run other locos in the future. I'm fine with Railking since we have a lot of that in rolling stock - not concerned about things being accurate scale.

Thanks.

You can't wrong with MTH and DCS, I recently moved over to it completely as I just sold my last Lionel set. MTH has great prices and the Imperial line of steamers is just valuetown! I'm using a 180-Powerhouse with my TIU and haven't had any problems. I also recently picked up the Wifi unit and I'm really liking it.

Good luck and have fun!

OC Patrick posted:

...thanks -

 

Thanks.

consider joining a club.  I know one who is always looking for new members.

run trains when ever you want.

A few things folks haven't mentioned yet.

As long as you stay with MTH, LC, and LC+, you'll be fine. This basically means that you'll always have full voltage on the tracks, just like your current LC/+ setup.  The DCS remote will not be able to control the LC engines; the power provided thru the DCS system (TIU) will be fine; you'll just need to use the LC remote. The LC+ will also need to be controlled by its remote, unless you want to operate in conventional mode, and that's a topic for when you gain a bit more knowledge (not hard; just don't want to confuse at this point).

You should be able to run both DCS and LC/+ engines at the same time. Will take 2 remotes (DCS + LC) and some skill in avoiding collisions, but can be done.

You didn't say what kind of power supply you currently have. If it's just a transformer with no controls that you plug into a section of Fastrack, you'll need a different source.  If you have a traditional-type transformer like a CW80, or a PowerHouse brick, or an older transformer, any should work to start with for one engine.  At your level of understanding, I'd advise against an older transformer because they need some protective devices installed which is beyond the scope of this thread. Easy to do, again, don't want to burden. But, if you have something like an old ZW sitting around, it'd be worth it for you to search on how to add spike suppression and fast-blow circuit protection. VERY easy to do. Don't have to open-up the case, either.

All comments have been spot-on and valid. Get Barry's book before you buy anything. Just about all our sponsors at the top of the page offer the full DCS system for around $309.

If you don't mind the slightly smaller size of Railking Imperial then that would (as BNSF-MATT said) be the best value available today in O gauge trains. Those are a really great bargain, IMO.

Also, Carl offers great advice about using older transformers with the new modern electronics in today's trains. His recommendation of Barry's book, the DCS Companion is also great advice. I agree that you should get that first, before anything else and read it through! (Link provided in Barry's post above.) Lots of good info there that you won'd find in the DCS manual. Plus, if you have a DCS question here on the forum Barry is often the first one to try and help you with it. So you get that personal support touch too. 

Hi Matt,

just picked up a brand new 180W Powerhouse. does the end of the triangular plug go directly into the TIU, or can I use a TMCC direct lock-on straight to my Fastrack? (not very electrically inclined).

OC Patrick posted:

Hi Matt,

just picked up a brand new 180W Powerhouse. does the end of the triangular plug go directly into the TIU, or can I use a TMCC direct lock-on straight to my Fastrack? (not very electrically inclined).

There is a cable that you can purchase on eBay that will adapt the PH180 connector to wires or banana jacks that get connected to the TIU track power-in.

TIU out to track.

...thanks to everyone here who have helped me. We got the 180W brick, TIU with remote, and a new Railking SP Daylight GS-4. Tested it out the other night - and WOW. In the middle of building a new layout - can't wait to finish that up and run with the other LC+ locos.

I also power my TIU with a Lionel Powerhouse 180 connected to Fixed Voltage In1.  Last week I updated the software to DCS 6.1 , now I can't remember which wire goes to red, and which one to black.  I snipped off the factory plug, so I have just 2 wires that got to Fixed Voltage In1.  My PH is stamped 2008 42 so no phase inverter needed.  Can I use a multimeter to determine which wire is HOT and which is Common?  Thanks everyone.

@Lazy_Railer posted:

I also power my TIU with a Lionel Powerhouse 180 connected to Fixed Voltage In1.  Last week I updated the software to DCS 6.1 , now I can't remember which wire goes to red, and which one to black.  I snipped off the factory plug, so I have just 2 wires that got to Fixed Voltage In1.  My PH is stamped 2008 42 so no phase inverter needed.  Can I use a multimeter to determine which wire is HOT and which is Common?  Thanks everyone.

If you only have one transformer (one Powerhouse brick) then it does not matter. It's only when using more than one brick, then they must be phased.

@Vernon Barry posted:

If you only have one transformer (one Powerhouse brick) then it does not matter. It's only when using more than one brick, then they must be phased.

Thank you Vernon.  If I am understanding you correctly, the A and U wires from the PH180 can go to either Red OR Black on Fixed Voltage In1.  It doesn't matter which way they're hooked up, even though Barry's DCS companion specifically says, make sure the HOT goes to Red post?

@John C. posted:

If you look at it like that's a lot of money all at once think about the years of pleasure it will provide you.  I've had my Z4000 for 5 years now and paid $400 for it.  So it has cost me about $80 bucks a year to have it so far, way under a dollar a day...and it is still going strong.

In 1940 my father bought a Lionel Type R transformer for 12.50 and it is still going srong. Our layouts have one(1) Roght of Way, one(1) Z4000 and the R.  If I could fine one, I'd purchase a MAX by Mainline Industries.  John

Did anyone happen to notice that the original poster started this thread over five and a half years ago?

Neutral or (black ground) is the "ribbed" wire of the two.

Positive wire is smooth.