O22 switches not work when power is supplied to track

Is the switch plug attached to track power or on fixed voltage on the transformer?

Does the switch work when there is no plug attached to it?

plug is connected to the transformer the transformer doesn't have accessories terminals when I had the power connected to the rail the switch only worked when the train was on the switch

Can you draw a diagram - this explanation just doesn't cut it.

Do you have the plastic insulating pins installed correctly or even installed?

If you don't the switches will buzz or chatter continuously!

!

Do you have isolation pins in it. it takes two one on each direction the first pin will be on the outside rail of the curve section the other goes to the short inside piece on the straight direction section 

I thing I might have the insulating pins in wrong I only have them on the outside rail at both ends and on both tracks will correct this and get back to you. 

thanks

i changed the pins I thing this is my problem it corrected the problem on one switch but the other switch is now having the problem. I have two right switches connected together is there a different pattern for the insulating pins when you do this. when I solve this I will be connecting two left switches also 

I attached 3 pictures so you can see better what I am doing wrong

You are missing the fiber pin in the curved leg of the upper switch here:

And you have an extra unneeded pin at the top of the same switch:

Guys take a look at the switch on the right hand pic above. Why is there a insulating pin on the left rail where is joins to the straight above it, (switch point end)    I can understand the insulating pin on the other end of the switch for the non-derailing feature.(straight route)

Gregg posted:

Why is there a insulating pin on the left rail where is joins to the straight above it, (switch point end)

No reason. It's unneeded unless it abuts an insulated rail section for accessory or signaling activation, or occupancy indication, which it does not based on the lack of rail insulators in the adjoining rail.

Leaving it there won't really make any difference either.

should i remove the pin on the outside rail and put it on the inside rail of the curve track on that switch 

When putting 2 022 switches back to back(curved rails)like that in the photo "both outside rails must have an insulating pin." The outside rail on the curve must get an insulated pin. You have the insulating pins correct for the straight track part of the switches.

Lee Fritz

llongdrew posted:

should i remove the pin on the outside rail and put it on the inside rail of the curve track on that switch 

No, the pins should be in the exact same place in the right/top switch as they are in the left/bottom switch, except that, for some unknown reason, you have superfluous fiber pins in both switches, which do nothing and really should have steel pins for better continuity.

These 2 pins should be replaced with steel pins:

Silly question but rails  activates the non-derailing feature?     Do both go to the frog? or...    one outside curved  rail  looks like it has a cut in it. Why would this rail not be continuous?

I 'm wondering if the problem is internal  in the switch? A continuity meter might come in handy determining if the  insulated rail is  really  insulated.

llongdrew posted:

... I wired my switch using the constant power plug I connected the plug to the positive terminal of my transformer if I disconnect the track from the switched they work great connect the tract and they buzz when I try to use them

Once you get the pins placed properly, we will need to know which transformer(s) you are using and what post you are referring to as "the positive terminal", as well as how your track is connected to the transformer(s) to determine if you have a proper common ground.

Thanks Rob...  Good pics .

ok i put the insulating pins in the correct position I have add pix on how I have them wired and the directions for on of the switches that i got off of ebay. I do not have an accessory transformer do i need to get one I was unable to down load the pic will try later computer problem

You don't need an accessory transformer, but the one you have does need to be connected properly. What model is it?

pics

1.Your 1073 transformer(60 watts input) only has enough power output, about 45 watts, for a very nominal set and one or two trackside accessories(signal, gateman, eg.). The bulbs on the two switches alone are using up about 12 watts of your 45.
2. You are accomplishing nothing by using the fixed voltage plugs of the switches, you are powering them only by the same posts that are powering the track and as such will be better off with nothing connected to them except the controllers.
3. In your case, a separate accessory transformer is needed if you want to have fixed accessory voltage supplied to the switches.

thank for the help will look for another transformer. Rob you have been great

LLONGDREW,

   Rob is giving you the correct skinny, I would also replace all the original bulbs in your 022 switches and controllers with LED's, especially when running off track power.  You can purchase  the LED's from Train Electrics or Town & Country Hobbies on the Net.

PCRR/Dave

 The pins form an insulated rail. This insulated rail triggers the non-derailing feature of the switches. If you look where the pins go on one rail there is a second built in piece of plastic isolating the rail. The other one is separated where the rail ends at the plastic of the switch.

The transformer you have is fine for a power source for your turnouts. You purchased them from Tinman which is assumed because you posted his directions in your photos. They say they re already equipped with LED lights. This will cut way down on power consumption. Keep using the side plug even though it connects to the track.(see directions for 3 foot cable these switches were modified) There is a reason Tinman does it this way.

I would recommend getting a 2nd transformer for your train. Until you do the one will be border line adequate depending on what kind of train you run. With a 2nd transformer you would connect this one to the side plug instead of the rails.

Jim Dave and Rob thank you so much I bought a stronger transformer and redid the insulating pins every thing works great now thank you all so much