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Ok my engine (a Kline A5, someday I should tell you how much I hate this cute little POS) does run perfectly, all engine functions from motor to couplers to headlights, fine,  but the sounds are not working correctly.  I have done a full reset.  Basically the only sounds that work are the whistle, the bell, and the single AUX1 chuff?  They, however, also work perfectly.

 

It was working, but there was a problem crossing a switch (large spark, would cause the TMCC Lockon to shut off and then restart).  I ran it back and forth over the switch trying to determine the problem and at some point I developed this sound problem.

 

To wit:

 

Railsounds doesn't start on engine commands.

Horn - works, after release I get some steam sounds but they then fade

Bell - works, think I also get temp steam sounds but bell is loud so hard to tell

Couplers - work but no clunk

Aux1 - 0:  Chuff when I hit the Aux.  0 stops and reverses the engine, but no whistle

Aux1 - 1:  Chuff when I hit the Aux.  As far as I can tell, no volume change (by trying the horn&whistle again)

Aux1 - 2:  Chuff when I hit the Aux.  But no Crew Talk

Aux1 - 3:  Chuff yadda yadda.  Nothing else

 

And so on with Aux 1.

 

 

 

 

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Awesome guys!  My fat fingers had somehow moved the switch completely to Signal Sounds.  Thank you for saving me a complete teardown (and yes, a careful reading finds this in the manual ).  This is a really nice feature, actually and am glad I know about it now. 

 

Stoshu - I did see a post recently, probably yours, at the bottom of some thread about that exact thing, and it made me sad because I just spent the $$ on a replacement DCDR.  For a few bucks more... However:  Mine went up in smoke (deep in a tunnel, of course) due to the plug wires abrading against the heat shield where the fit is just too tight. It seemed like if they had just moved the screw holes up a few mills it would have been fine.  Did you feel that your plug was also an unnecessarily tight fit?


 

 

Mine went up in smoke (deep in a tunnel, of course)

 

This is what tunnels are for.

 

  It seemed like if they had just moved the screw holes up a few mills it would have been fine.  Did you feel that your plug was also an unnecessarily tight fit?

 

It was a little tight. what I say was the rectifier on the board was bigger than the

old one. It wasn't perfect but it worked...

 

Glad things worked out for you... Just one of those "DUH" moments eh ....

 

 

 

Dumb question...what does DCDR stand for and what is it? From reading this thread I think CCM is Cruise Commander from ERR? I posted a list of abbreviations a while back, these are not on there and I would like to add them. Any other abbreviations related to the ERR boards welcome also.

Thanks!

 

Is DCDR a DC Commander? Thought I might have figured it out?

Last edited by rtr12

The DCDR is the DC motor driver.  Truthfully, I'm not entirely sure what it stands for, but my best guess is as follows.

 

DCDR - DC Driver

ACDR - AC Driver

 

Either of these is a fairly simple board that accepts PWM signals from the TMCC receiver, the R2LC, and converts them to motor movement in the selected direction.

 

CCM - Cruise Commander M (DCDR replacement to add cruise control)

CC - Cruise Commander (total electronic replacement to add TMCC control capability and cruise control).

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