Okay to use loctite on this screw?

bayshore,

You shouldn't run into any problems. Remember to use your loctite sparingly. If you can find one less worn, I go that route first.

"Pappy"

As mentioned in another thread I have found the Purple is all I need. One reason the screw always come loose is the tabs on the Eccentric crank might be worn off.

Bill

Actually, I believe that's the correct screw for that model.

I would use Loctite Threadlocker 242 blue so the screw could be easily removed for maintainance purposes.

I would not use loctite. the problem of that screw coming loose is usually because the tits on the eccentric crank are worn off and can't lock into the driver. replace the crank and your problem will be solved.

I have used a piece of fishing line in the hole, than threaded the screw in. Trim the end of the line off, and it holds. Creates enough "snugness" to hold without the danger of never removing the screw again...

Loctite purple is fine for any small screws, I've never had an issue of taking them out after using it.  The blue is better for slightly larger screws, again for stuff in the #6 or larger range, you'll have no issue in removing it.

I agree on this particular issue, the tabs frequently get sheared off the crank on those.  However, one of the major reasons the tabs get sheared off is the screw comes loose!  After replacing it, I'd still use the Loctite on it.

GRJ,

I agree on this particular issue, the tabs frequently get sheared off the crank on those.  However, one of the major reasons the tabs get sheared off is the screw comes loose!  After replacing it, I'd still use the Loctite on it. 

Bill

Looking at the picture above, it appears the drive rod is missing. With the eccentric screw positioned at the bottom of the wheel, it should be roughly parallel to the valve gear linkage. Sloping upward towards the front of the loco.

If needed, the part numbers for the cross-head/drive rod combo are:

RH: 2055-65

LH: 2055-70

If they are bent, which can happen if the eccentric tabs shear off, replacement eccentric screws are P/N: 2055-93. They are 4-40x5/8" flat head Phillips.

OK, I'll be odd-man out. Use clear nail polish. I use it all the time on scope bases and rings. It holds well. WHEN you need to remove the screw, just a couple of drops of nail polish remover (Acetone, don't get it on the paint!) and the screw backs out easily.

Gilly

Gilly,

You're not the odd-man out . I use it on my better 80-90 year old prewar pieces. My grandfather taught me that old trick. We're just a little out of step in time.

"Pappy"

Len2, the drive rod is there, but in hurrying to screw everything back together before taking this picture I placed it in the wrong position, so it doesn't really show in the picture.  It WAS in the correct position each time the screw worked loose, and I have put it back in the correct position again.  I'll try the loctite fix first, and if the screw keeps working loose anyway, then I will try replacing the eccentric crank.

If the nubs are missing, replace the crank.

no amount of loctite, super glue or epoxy will keep this from happening if the nubs are missing. listen to good advise. the nubs should be your first inspection and fix.

I'm not really sure what the nubs are supposed to look like, not sure what it being referred to--could someone post a picture of what this SHOULD look like?

This problem has been going on for at least 70 years.  This happened to my 1666 during WW2 and there were no parts to fix it.  Some repair guy at a Electrical Store that did train repairs just cut the whole rod off.  This was done without informing me or my dad that he was going to do this.  It always bugged that he did it.

When parts became available after WW2, I got the whole rod assembly replaced.....

Yep, screw gets loose, crank starts rotating, the retaining nubs get worn off pretty quickly.  Must be soft metal.

it is important when you install the new crank that you have it positioned correctly. it can go on in 2 positions 180' apart, only one of these is correct. the other position could cause your side rods to bend or shearing off the nubs on the new crank. also check the matching holes in the driver for wear.

Hand rotating the wheels through a complete rev of the drivers is always a good idea after installing the rods.

When the crank pin screw is toward the rear of the engine, the crank should be pointed toward the front of the engine. As shown in the picture.

I checked the part and one of the nubs is shorter than the other, so at least one of them is worn.  I'll go the replacement route.

Thanks everyone for your help.

On most postwar engines, the side rod is riveted to the eccentric. You probably will need a new rivet too.

it is actually a spiral fluted rivet. it can be removed with a good needle nose pliers and some care while twisting it

quote:

it is actually a spiral fluted rivet. it can be removed with a good needle nose pliers and some care while twisting it

Not on any prewar or postwar eccentric crank I've ever seen. Perhaps on Modern era engines.

The spiral fluted rivet is commonly called a drive screw. Originally Lionel used small hex head screws to attach the crosshead to it's rod. Somewhere along the line Lionel switched to hex head drive screws. Might be a prewar - postwar change.

The eccentric crank on the 2065 uses a 700E-53 shouldered rivet, not a fluted drive pin.

Bill