Opinion on MTH Engines

Indeed. I have been too slow to fish for them when it was open to a buyer a time or two just this month.

I don't wish to highjack the thread... but want to recognize the recent Sellers for having very good buys.

I've been the recipient of several of the great buys.

I suspect the track had a lot to do with the problems I had with the PRR Turbine, but since it was a real issue, I feel a thread like this it should be mentioned.  I doubt he wants to change to GarGraves track just so he can run this.

There OK if you put BCRs in them. Very good smokers if you like that much smoke.

Just to broaden your horizon, you might want to consider picking up a Williams brass steamer ($300-350) and dropping a TMCC board and electro-couplers ($150-200) into it.  They are exceptionally smooth runners, forgiving of imperfect track conditions, navigate 031 curves, and very reliable.  I have 4 (2 PRR K4s, 1 PRR L1s, 1 PRR B6sb).  And they will run under DCS (if you're determined to jump into that pit) with the command base & cable.

Best,

George

Some Rail King steamers I bought from Jim Sutter are still keeping a smile on my face too! Jim, I wish you were still in business. Stay healthy and happy.

John, that is why I included the parameters of my experience.  What I have further found is that for the most part no matter what the MFG's state once you get over three fixed driver axles min of O42 is best.  Williams brass Crown series first started turning my head back to O-gauge.  I brought the K4, L1, E6, and B6.  The K4 ran perfectly on O31 but the L1 would throw its tires even though Williams stated O31 for both.   The MTH RK Imperial PRR S2 is a big engine, probably their biggest fixed frame RK.

George, if he was to add a command to a Williams he be better off going to PS-2.  The upgrade kit should cost about $175 at best (I have purchased all mine cost $160).  This way he would not have to purchase a TMMC command system.  And ultimately he would NOT have the smoke output capability.

Mike, a caveat to choosing the RK Imperial PRR S2.  Not knowing your knowledge of the PRR S2 prototype I ad this. The S2 had a direct drive steam turbine thus it did not chuff but had a continuous whoosh exhaust when moving.  Also only has a side rod(s) no piston rods, main rods, crossheads, and valve gears etc.  So if you are looking for a lot of mechanical action and chuffs this would not be the way to go.

Ron

Ron, as he stated in a prior message.

My only criteria is that the engine operates on O-31, has Freight proto-sound, and is preferably an east coast rail road line.

Given that set of criteria, I think the 6-8-6 Turbine is out.

BTW, mine had lousy traction on straight track, it didn't even have to get to a curve to have problems.  I just think that particular locomotive doesn't like tubular track at all.  It wasn't a lot better on Fastrack, but since I have a lot of tubular, that was a secondary consideration.

I have one RK steam switcher that I got for ~$300 several years ago.  Runs well, sounds good, and smokes like crazy.   One of the best play values for the buck, IMHO. 

It seems to me there is a movement towards Proto 2 and 3. The old Proto 1's still have value. Just need a specific way to run them and enjoy em.

As far as the smoke, the two trainmasters will fill a room in a hurry.

John,

I was considering purchasing the Imperial S2...but am beginning to reconsider. My entire layout is tubular track. Oddly enough, in regards to the traction issue, I had a Williams S2 (Semi-scale 671) and occasionally would pull great then totally loose traction on clean, blemish free track...very odd especially from a proven engine on tubular track on hundreds, if not thousands of layouts out there. 

Any Proto-1 engine has a lot of value still, and is a fine running and operating engine.  As is oft suggested, and rightfully so, just make sure you take the simple step of putting a BCR into it first before attempting to run it.

My most recent purchases have been 1- DCS/Proto-2 CNJ F-3 A-B-A set, but 3- Proto-1 F-3 sets in CNJ, Burlington and Western Maryland.  I still desire to own the scarce and handsome early Proto-1 F-3 sets and have no issues at all with running them on my layout with my DCS remote (conventionally, of course).

Enjoy the many choices that MTH has provided to us operators.

I just read quickly so forgive me if this was already said.  If you are running Premier Diesels, they are scale size.  I would recommend Railking Scale or Near Scale steam locomtives so they do not appear small next to the premier models.  These ussually are swichers or camelbacks.  They all run well.  The Imperial line adds some upgraded features but doesn't change the fact that some of these are shrunken when compared to their scale counterpart.  Just another clarification, some of the Railking Diesels were scale premier items at one time, but they didn't get the upgrades that current premier diesels have as standard features.  These are ussually things like marker lights and other attachments.  These are typically designated Railking Scale.  Imperial Line are typically, not always, railking (smaller size) steam locomotives with enhanced details.

Hope this helps.

I just wonted to say that I have a number of Rail King steam engines and they are all great. They may not have the detail of a Premire unit but I think they look better on my 9 X 23 foot layout.

I also buy the MTH starter sets because I can get the DCS with them. Lionel refuses to build a starter set with command control in it.

Some of us say that Lionel sounds are better then what MTH has but many say I could not tell if a string snap on a violin.  I guess sound is like art it's interpretative.

But the bottom line is that you can't beat MTH products for the money and I feel the same way about their Rail King steam. Go for it.

Mike,

    I am a Lionel guy TMCC and Legacy engines are all I own but I do want to share my feelings on scale vs semi scale engines and rolling stock. I too bought a lot of semi scale stuff when I got back into O gauge trains. Then I bought my first scale engine a Williams F7 AA Set. All of the sudden my semi scale steamers looked out of place. I too had tight curved 042 the largest I owned. So I started buying small scale steamers nothing bigger than a Mikado and 4 wheel truck diesels (F7, RS 3, GP7/9 etc). Stay away from SD Diesels etc. Also don't look at Big Boys or Challangers unless you join a club with large curves. You will be amazed how great everything looks when it is all scale. Even if you run a scale B6 switcher at a club next to a guy with a scale big boy it still looks good as that is the way it really looks.

    Some will say seni scale is a great buy but learn to use ebay as a source, you can by diesels for under $300 scale with TMCC/Legacy maybe even PS 2 & 3. I bought a Kline/Lionel TMCC A5 Scale steamer for $225.....what a steal, great engine.

    Since you have some scale stuff already stick with it you'll save time selling off all the semi scale later.  Good luck.

JohnB