packing trains for long-term storage?

I'd round up some acid-free white paper for the initial wrap of each item to prevent any sticking or paint transfer.  A lot of the shipping packaging for model trains would probably not be optimum for such an environment.

It's possible to have truly air-tight containers with desiccant, but it actually takes a surprising amount of desiccant to be truly effective over a long term.  The key will be keeping the environment fairly low humidity, that will minimize other issues.

Buy some silica gel to put into each carton.  Not necessary, but nice to do.  If you are using bubble wrap, place clean acid free paper between the toy and the bubble wrap.  John in Lansing, ILL

Unless you really seal the carton, desiccant won't do much, if anything.  If it's only "mostly sealed", once the desiccant gets saturated, the sealing can do more harm than good.

How does desiccant most effectively protect my product or package?

In order to achieve optimal protection, desiccants should be used within a closed/sealed moisture barrier or a rigid/sealed container. Humidity Indicator Cards are generally placed inside the container to show the humidity level and to indicate when the desiccant needs to be replaced.

Take the batteries out of any engines and other items that have them!

I was going to be a smartass and tell you to send them to my house, until I checked your profile. We're about 35 miles apart, so I'll just wish you good luck on your job assignment.

The GN Man posted:

Take the batteries out of any engines and other items that have them!

That is a good reminder!

doggie piddle pads will also keep moisture out.

Batteries out, a fresh oiling, airtight sealed when dry out.

Dry wood can help and is cheaper and chemically safer. Old time machinists use wood in boxes to stabilize the changes in tool drawer air moisture, especially prevalent during temperature changes. It absorbs it fast and releases it slow.  

I have rented, and continue to rent, many storage units. As it is, I would have been further ahead if I had simply built my own storage facility. I currently have both outdoor and climate controlled units. As for storing delicate items long term, such as antiques, paintings and fine art, any items with a fine finish, books and paper items, and.....electronics, I highly recommend story such items in a climate controlled environment. 

In the case of outdoor units, anything cardboard will be affected by the inevitable humidity. Your also best advised to place anything susceptible to water damage, off of the floor onto pallets or similar. Everything stored in an outdoor unit will eventually be covered in dust. Climate controlled units have some issues as well. During the cooling months, ie summer, concrete floors will develop condensation, an adverse environment for cardboard boxes that will eventually result in mold and rot. A layer of heavy visqueen over the floor will alleviate the issue.

Plastic tubs are your friends for long term storage. Even then, you can stack them only so high before they begin to crush themselves , an effect will progress over time. bulk shelving is a huge help in this regard.

There is nothing fun about packing away endeared treasure for long term storage. There's also nothing as disheartening as the unforeseen loss of beloved family heirlooms. I can't stress enough to utilize best packing practices that are available to you. With that, may I extend the of best of luck to you with your new adventures in life.

Happy packing...

Not as much experience as Jon (Mill City). I've had a major portion of my collection in storage at least three times. Once when moving, and at least twice while having major remodeling projects done.

Like Jon, I have always used climate controlled storage.
I brought in utility shelving and kept everything off of the floor.

Some good suggestions but most are unnecessary. Just put your trains back in their original boxes if you have them. If you don't wrap them and store them in a container.

i stored my trains in a storage facility that was not climate controlled for 5 years and some are still there. The temps were between 10-90 degrees. These were all modern electronic locomotives. There have been no problems, I took them out and they ran as they should. Just make sure all your stuff is off the floor, u can use pallets or something else. 

Dave

I store trains in 32 gallon plastic totes that have snug fitting lids. These totes are stackable 3 high.

I put my trains in storage around 2009 while I spent the early part of my retirement traveling and sailing. I used climate controlled storage and packed everything into plastic totes, and taped the totes shut. Everything has done very well. I have pulled some trains out and built Christmas layouts or did projects and returned them to storage. I have also added to the collection over the years. Hope to pull some out for Christmas this year.

I threw away many of the original boxes especially the MTH as they are so bulky in storage do to the large Styrofoam. I have a lot of MTH passenger cars and removing the bulk really helped. I am unconcerned about the value impact of no boxes. This was done to cut the cost of climate storage. However, I have started keeping the boxes for command engines because of the occasional need to mail them to a tech.

I did not use acid free tissue at first, but now as I pull things out, I repack with archival tissue.   I used desiccant, but probably not enough. I have renewed it whenever I unpack it.  I did remove batteries.

I also used extra care storing the large collection of tubular track that I have. I cleaned it before storage and stored with vcip spray (http://www.bull-frog.com/products/) to reduce rust. I have a lot of 40” sections that I wrapped in plastic. It has held up very well.

I also made a very thorough inventory on a spreadsheet. This has really paid off when I want to find selected items for Christmas. What a great feeling to unpack a favorite train that you have not seen for years to find it in excellent condition.

Bill