Skip to main content

Originally Posted by M1FredQ:

Super O Bob

 

I meant my e-mail in support of what you wrote regards to breezinup's comments. Sorry if my ranting went off the tracks. I am home nursing a flu and the meds my wife have given me are making me sleepy!!!!

 

There is so much to this color business, but I like to think the guys in R&D at these companies know their stuff.

 

My rule of thumb is to take a page out of the Wine/Bourbon rating system 85 and above are very good wines. 90 and above you're at the excellent level. I say the companies are 90ish which is unscientific but acceptable to me. Like your posts Super O

M1-

 

Hope you feel better!  I was very happy to see you chime in on this subject!  You echoed some of the things I was trying to say...

 

Fun to see some one else who was aware of all the color topics on WW2 avaiation!  I remember all the arguments of how to weather the FS olive Drab!

Originally Posted by M1FredQ:

 

Anyways the folks in the industry do a pretty good job to make sure they match colors as accurately as possible. 

 

Don't get so bent out of shape with precise accuracy, because it doesn't exist.  I think the industry does a pretty good job overall today. I hope we never see the low quality days of the '70's or '80's again

Hard to believe this topic is still rattling around.  Actually, Lionel has always done a very good job with their colors, and they actually did a commendable job with them in the "old days," especially considering that paint processes were technically not near what they are today.

 

Chinese production has made things more challenging, though. As Lionel has stated, they're often not sure how things are going to look until they actually receive the items in the U.S. Frequently things can't be changed/corrected during the manufacturing process.

 While it's true that absolute accuracy is elusive, and often "close enough" is "good enough," that doesn't mean when we pay the big dollars we do for items that we shouldn't encourage the manufacturers to make things accurately.

 

The extent of accuracy that's desired varies from person to person, of course; there are lots of complaints from Forumites about such things as the placement of a horn being incorrect. Those things don't bother me so much, but correct color is important, at least to me, and I think Lionel ought to pay attention to it, and we shouldn't ignore it.

 

There have been some significant color issues in the recent past; just one example was the Shasta Daylight so many folks complained about. Here, since from the catalog picture it's obvious (in the case of the Rio Grande engine) Lionel knows the correct color, it would be great if they could improve their production process so the finished product comes out the same way, and we should encourage that. I don't think when many hundreds of dollars are spent on these items, we should just shrug our shoulders about these things and look the other way. Feedback is important to all companies.

 

Off the soapbox.

I hope Lionel makes more GP35 and GP30 models from southeastern roads. They have made the SCL and Chessie GP30s, but not many GP35s from below the Mason Dixon line. I would like to see ACL, and Southern (HH) units, and a SAL lettered GP30. As for rhe current units, I really like the Rio Grande, since I shot several units at the time of the SP merger.

Breezinup

 

Sounds like all of us are in the same ballpark. Where I live a number of folks here do business in China and they tell me the issues they have. 

 

I agree with you about colour. As I mentioned above with my wine/scotch scale it should be in the 90ish range which I think is acceptable. Color is so subjective and not even the standards sometimes meet what our expectations are.

A friend of mine down in Florida rehabs World War 2 US Army vehicles for his museam and even though he has original FS Olive Drab paint chips, he has had retired plant workers who worked on the painting of the vehicles during the WAR tell him that's not the right shade!!!!!

 

For the UP yellow it's a big job to tackle. Yellow as one of the spectrum colors is notoriously affected by light, hue, time of day etc. As a UP stock holder I receive their calenders every year and have grown accustomed to the shade of yellow on those calenders. Its a rich, some orange or even red in the pigment "I think". So that's the yellow I look for which I think is captured pretty accurately in the latest GP offerings from WBB and UP-in my opinion. I don't know about the others as I haven't seen their product.

 

We all are pretty discriminating bunch and yeap when you're plopping down a few hundred bucks for an item you can have higher expectations. 

 

I agree the Model RR companies do listen to feedback and I would imagine they are Type A'ish in their feedback of themselves and if there's a mistake they will correct it.

 

Anyway Breezin stay in touch hope to see more of your input!!!!

Originally Posted by base11:

Back on page 1 someone asked about the train sounds on a GP30 and GP35.  I have both in the Chessie scheme.  Diesel sounds are identical, but the horns are different.  I also have the SD40 Chessie engines that just came out.  The horns are identical to the GP35's that just came out.  


Andy...  Now u got your Chessies!

Originally Posted by Super O Bob:
Originally Posted by base11:

Back on page 1 someone asked about the train sounds on a GP30 and GP35.  I have both in the Chessie scheme.  Diesel sounds are identical, but the horns are different.  I also have the SD40 Chessie engines that just came out.  The horns are identical to the GP35's that just came out.  


Andy...  Now u got your Chessies!

I have both Chessie engines. GP30, GP35. Besides different horns, start up sounds are totally different. The GP35 also has Turbocharger sounds not present on the GP-30..

Both are great sounding engines, especially so when operated as a MU.

Joe

Hi Petrified-

 

I generally use new Super O.  The track in the tunnels I do yse some tarnished track (cause it is hidden).  But you can clean it.

 

Stick a wire brush bit in a drill press.  But you should remove the rails from the ties first.  So you can shine up the rails that way.

 

Then wash the plastic ties and armorall the ties with a tooth brush, and they look brand new that way.

 

Just pry off the clips that hold the track together.  You can pop the sheet metal clips off the ties (comes out under the track),  so when you clean the ties, have the clips removed.

 

Then you can simply reassemble the cleaned parts and re stake the clips to clamp the rails down again.

 

Your track will look almost new again...

 

 

No, I got no prompt to ask.

 

I only buy engines in sets of two road numbers (minimum).  Just a single geep doesn't look right to me pulling a string of cars.  Must have two geeps minimum.

 

I'm lickin' chops to get the new Santa FE GP35's in the 'yellowbonnet'.  I was told they will match the recent Legacy Yellow Bonnet GP30's perfectly.  So I'm planning to lash all 4 Santa Fe geeps together for some nice long pulls...

 

On You tube there is still the video of when we lashed up 3 bigboys on my old layout.  I dig lashups!

>>>I only buy engines in sets of two road numbers (minimum).  Just a single geep doesn't look right to me pulling a string of cars.  Must have two geeps minimum.<<

 

For me as long as both are powered with sound, especially sound. It's the best. 

I have no use for a parade of faux dummy trailing units . 

Living near the GTW mainline its a rarity to see single unit trains.  Most are double or triple headed running mixed power. Seldom do I see multiple identical units pulling freight.       

Joe 

>>>My two new GP-35s are Erie-Lackawanna, both powered, and they look great.<<

 

I found once I ran two powered units together, it was hard to run them any other way.  Since I put the Chessie GP35 with the GP-30, I'm hoping the big L releases other GP's to add to the mix. 

We need GP38-39-40's.  Maybe a GP50, even a GP60.    

Joe

The GP-35's look really cool. I have a G-Scale GP-38 BNSF that is really an eye catcher and I would really like to see that in O-Scale!!!

 

Since you have 2 powered engines does that cause any problems? Are they manufactured to run at the exact same speeds?? If that's true then I'd rather buy powered instead of Dummies.

 

Is there any "tweeking" I need to do to have 2 powered engines hooked up together?

Originally Posted by M1FredQ:

The GP-35's look really cool. I have a G-Scale GP-38 BNSF that is really an eye catcher and I would really like to see that in O-Scale!!!

 

Since you have 2 powered engines does that cause any problems? Are they manufactured to run at the exact same speeds?? If that's true then I'd rather buy powered instead of Dummies.

 

Is there any "tweeking" I need to do to have 2 powered engines hooked up together?


Hi M1-

 

With Lionels Legacy system, it is very easy to 'lashup' two or more powered legacy locomotives.  They run perfectly together and the front coupler button activated the front coupler of the lashup, and the rear coupler the last engine in the lashup.

 

Since I love building lashups, it makes running trains so much more fun having realistic powered combinations and 2x or 3x or 4x the fun with multiple units!

 

Additionally you can pull alot more cars up grades...

 

Post

OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×