Post War 395 Floodlight Repair

Bulbs can be tricky, but I use plain ol' homo sapian fingers to remove them. They are of bayonet type and so you need to press in while rotating and then they will spring out.

The "hoods" are of chemically blackened cast metal. As for cleaning them, I would try a tooth brush and water with a hint of soap. I would not pain them.

As for the green color, Lionel used many greens - since I am not  paint master, I'll leave that for someone else.

Just a tidbit - The 395 uses #51 6V bulbs in series for ~12V operation.

A trick I use to get light bulbs out is to go to your local hardware store and buy a foot ( minimum purchase) of some clear flexible plastic tubing. Most stores have several sizes so just take a bulb down and find the ID that fits over the bulb. 

You can use a Dremel wire wheel to remove the corrosion and retain most of the original black finish. Testors green is a close match for touch up. The bulbs are wired in series, so if one bulb is bad, the other won't light as well.

An old auto mechanic trick is to use a piece of vacuum hose smaller than the bulb, gives a non slip grip on the bulb, and if it breaks, it won't put glass into your finger. Another trick is to use a silicone plug wire boot, with the wire removed, to grip the bulb. Both tricks work with bayonet or threaded bulbs. BTW, the old auto mechanic is me. 

1. LV 601 and TRAIN DOCTOR - Sounds like that will work for removing the bulbs. (Worked)
2. BMORAN4 - Do you know how they were "Chemically blackened"?  Soap has not cleaned the white/gray corrosion off yet.
3. Can I spray paint the hoods black as long as the holder spot is clean?
4. CHUCK SARTOR -I will take the tower to the hobby shop to match the paint.

Thanks for the help.  For beginners like me, your responses are a big help.

I believe it is chemical darkening is Black Oxide. Yes, you can paint, allowing for conductivity at the holder. You can also get new lamp housings (Part Lionel number 70-2) for a little more than it would cost to prep and paint from postwar parts providers (Jeff Kane @Train Tender, Olsens Toy Train Parts, Smittys Toy Train Parts). You can also get the full shebang here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lionel...-Bases-/361975598977 (a tad pricey in my opinion, but hey)

Another trick I've used to remove a stubborn bayonet-base bulb is duct tape.  Tear a small piece and wrap one side of it tightly around the bulb.  With the majority of the duct tape between thumb and forefinger, push in  on the bulb as you twist.   It also protects well against a bulb globe that gives up prematurely.  But, I like the tubing suggestions above, too.........I just have ye olde duct tape available in my tool box more readily than an appropriate size diameter of tubint.  All good.

The lamp housings are blackened die cast metal.  Simply wash any crud from them, and then mask/paint or brush paint them flat black to freshen.  

Re the green (if that's your tower color....they came in silver, yellow, and ????) tower, there are several folks who offer excellent paints for Lionel restorations.  Check Hennings.....I believe they have a great line of paints. Also Charles Wood TrainEnamels, perhaps.   OTOH, I'm sure there's a close facsimile among the more commercial brands/availability.....if you're not a picker of nits, of course.

The pairs of lamps are wired in series.  Therefore, if two connected bulbs are out, only one of them may be the culprit.  Sometimes the usual telltale....blackening inside the bulb globe...will give you a good clue as to the guilty party.  If not, try replacing one bulb at a time.....it should work.

BTW, you can remove all of the electrical parts....connectors, brackets, center rod, etc., etc., in order to give the tower a thorough cleaning/re-painting....I've done it at least twice (silver towers).  However, when you re-assemble the parts you must be sure to have a good tight fit between the Fahnestock connectors and the tower base and center rod.  Fresh connectors may be necessary if the biting portion of the old connectors is ruined beyond repair in the original disassembly.  

It's actually a fairly simple accessory to restore to excellent appearance/operation.  And, believe me, there are a BUNCH of them out there as candidates!!

FWIW, always....

KD

Soap has not cleaned the white/gray corrosion off yet.

Let them dry completely. Then try a little light oil on a rag.
Sometimes going over them lightly with a wire brush (dremel) helps. (As Chuck already posted)

Luke - Train Doc.....this is off topic but I’ve been trying to reach you via e-mail.  Please get in touch with me at nescinc@sover.net 

Thanks, Bill

DS Texas posted:

I recently purchased a 395 Floodlight which is in nice condition except the light holders and some paint peeling on the structure. Like others I have had, the light holders have turned from black to gray with a white powder on them.  One pair of lights will turn on but the other pair do not.

1. How do you get the bulbs out?  Not enough room inside the hood to rotate the bulbs.  What "tool" will unscrew the bulbs with breaking them?
2. What material are these "hoods" made out of and is this corrosion?  Are they supposed to be black?  New ones are definitely black.
3. What is a good way to clean them and to "repaint" them? I believe that the spots where they fit the bracket must conduct electricity to the bulb base.
4. What kind of touch up paint can I use without stripping the entire structure (green)?

Any help will be appreciated.  If this is discussed somewhere else on this forum, please let me know where to look.

Thanks

The white material is corrosion. Your lamps are not lighting because its there. The housings are cast and ground to the holders and thus the frame of the tower. If the bulbs are stuck in then they may have corroded as well at the base. Break them and use a screw driver to dig the base out. Wire brush or bead blast the housings clean in and out. Do not paint them as that will disable the ground. You should chemically blacken them as they came from the factory. You can purchase a small bottle of Gun Blue at any shop/store that sells guns. Use medical gloves and use an old small artists paint brush and liberally coat the housings. Wait a minute then wash each and the brush with soapy water and dry completely. Make sure the mounting tabs on the tower are clean and reassemble.

Tin