Premier WVP&P Shay PS1

I haven't done one, but I can't imagine any issue with doing it.  Looks to be plenty of room in the tender for the boards, so a standard steam upgrade kit would work just fine.

 

The only thing I am really concerned with is the gap between the engine and tender being able to hold the tether without modifying the drive shaft. I also need to be able to disassemble the engine, which isn't really specified how to do so in the manual. I guess they really don't want anyone in these things. I am trying to post a photo but seem to be somewhat struggling

If this is like other Shay locomotives and is actually held together by the drawbar, you could dispense with the tether and just run the wires right back.  Perhaps put the tether connection inside the engine to allow a disconnect if you have to disassemble.  No real need to have the tether readily able to be disconnected.

 

 It is connected by the drawbar. That probably wouldn't be difficult just a quick chop on the plug and tether, and then rejoin the wires inside the boiler. Good thinking. Do these come apart simply by slipping the Clamp washer off the tender?

I haven't seen that particular model, but you have the general idea.  One thing, I'd make some provision to separate them.  I'd probably buy the straight male to female tether cable and hack that for the locomotive side.  Then you could plug them together in the tender with a straight wire between them from the locomotive.  When it was time to separate them, just take the tender shell off and unplug the locomotive connection.

 

You will want to separate them at some point.

 

Sounds like a good plan. Do you have a p/n for that tether?

When I did this, I used the BC-2100070 B-Unit Pass-Thru Harness.  I just hacked the male end off and used that for the engine side.  I cheated and used the angled tender one inside the tender, nobody sees it, so I didn't care that it had a bend in it.  If you want to get really neat, you could splice the other end of this harness into the tender, but I think that's just a waste of effort.

 

 

Clever! Any visuals perhaps to help display? This is getting exciting.

Sorry, no visuals, that one is long out of here and back in the hands of it's owner.  It's pretty easy, you just have to splice the tether into the leads that come back to the locomotive connector. 

 

One little wrinkle that I forgot to mention however.

 

You will have to relocate the two diodes that generate the PV line, they're on the tether connector for the locomotive.  They connect to the motor leads and then the other side is common and generated the PV voltage (purple lead).  If you look at the PS/2 upgrade kit harness, you'll see what I mean, the two diodes are mounted on the connector PCB.  I've had to move them for a number of upgrades anyway, sometimes there isn't room in the tether cavity for the diodes, even on MTH locomotives.

Actually I have done this one and it is quite difficult.  The standard kit works fine, but you have to route the wires through the engine cab and into the front body to power smoke and headlights.  There is a narrow channel to run along the front of the engine and you really need to be careful about pinching wires.  I had to take the shell off the engine about 4 times before I got it right.

 

Additionally, the Diesel Straight harness is not wired the same as Steam.  So unless your going to custom wire or rewire the Engine PCB your not going to have the heavier gauge Red and Black for AC or White and Yellow for Motors in the same spot.  If you want a straight plug, your better getting an "external" tender harness and reversing it.   G

 

 

Wire management is critical, that's for sure with a number of these tight ones. I normally shorten many of the wires and secure them so I don't have them where they can get pinched.

 

You have a good point on the tether, I did notice I was compromising on the gauge of the wires with that tether.  I kept them short to minimize the effects.  Having the external tender one is probably the best bet.  At the time, I didn't realize other options were available.

Ah, I see. The main reason for that idea was an alternative to the tether due to concern that there wasn't enough space for it to bend properly where they meet in between the engine and tender. From the sounds of it, it seems like it fit alright for you? I imagine the tender part of the upgrade is pretty straightforward, but the boiler sounds fun

Exactly.  There is a barrier wall between the cab and the boiler, so you have to come in, go up, than back down and up to the front of the engine.  I think you have a coupler up there too so lots of wire.  Also you can't shorten them too much or you won't have the ability to remove the cab for maintenance.

 

Size it up when you get it, definitely a nice engine to upgrade since they seem to hold value.  We just don't want to have to repair the circuit board 

 

I am sure MTH uses a jumper connection like the little climax so when you remove the shell you unplug from the frame.  Problem is coming up with the parts to do that and figuring out how to mount it all.  G

Good one G! I'll play around with it. Like I said I got it at a really good price so I may turn around and sell it. Can't keep em' all. But on the other hand, having a Shay is pretty awesome too. For whatever reason the headlight, cab light, and firebox light keep cutting in and out. Track is good, but pickups look a little dirty. I'll fiddle around with it and see if I can't get some consistency.  

Could be the CV board or a loose wire to it.  G

That was my suspicion. I'm pretty sure the cv board is barfing. An awful lot of buzzing is coming from it.