Preventing layout to floor detours

If it were me I would either super elevate the curve or add the plexiglass around the outside of the layout.  I would make it 4" to 6" tall from the platform top.  I think at that height it would not be as noticeable.  Whatever you choose to do post some pics for us.  PLEASE!!!!!

Rick

I had a similar curve so I drilled holes in the homosote and placed large nails in them to act as a barrier.  It worked a couple of times but now it is an 072 curve so not as much of a problem. You hardly notice the nails are there. They are about 2" high bcausee that is what I had at the time.

The elevated track radii on the layout my layout are from (34to 38)inch with tangent blended connections to adjacent tracks with no S curves. Superelevation of the track in the curves was completed by a 2 degree downward pitch (rotation) of the plywood base on the wood support risers towards the center of curvature. I used a Empire Magnetic Protractor level visually aligned with the estimated center of curvature and rotated the wood base clockwise downward 2 degrees, this level was on the wood base radially facing the estimated center of curvature. For all of the elevated track, scrap lumber segments of 1X3 or 1X4 lengths less than the width of the plywood base, were vertically attached with the 3(2.5) or 4(3.5) dimension downward with wood screws.

These segments were positioned to align with the vertical wood track risers, once the superelevation was set, C clamps were used to secure the track plywood base superelevation in position, holes were drilled through the track riser and 1X3 or 1X4 in a cross drill, wood screws then clamped the connection.

On this operational segment of the layout numerous trains were run through these curves at scale speed no derailments plus the slight pitch of the cars toward the center of curvature adds realism. 

What equipment are you operating and planning to operate?  I ask because 060 (30" radius) may pose issues if you operate or plan to operate scale length passenger and/or freight equipment; or, locomotives requiring similar min. radii.

If there is any doubt about safe operations, install the Plexiglas--Murphy's law for model trains.

I'll be operating postwar locos and cars, nothing scale.  My largest engine is a Lionmaster T1.  And the track is on a 2% grade, courtesy of Woodland Scenic foam risers.  Yes, this could be an ugly situation, which is why I'm taking a timeout to consider what can be done now - before I have an accident.

Dale

There's bound to be a way of using scenery, partially or completely, to act as a retainer.  A stone wall, a rock cliff or masonry bridge with higher than track level walls just to name a few.

Bruce

As Bruce suggested, this edging is carved from pink Styrofoam. A thin coat of Structolite plaster and a coat of flat latex paint make it very durable. It could also be shaped to fit around curves.

Jim

Jim and Bruce have the best solution.  If you track is sufficiently recessed from the edge, pink foam can be made into a wall, a shallow embankment, used as the base for a grove of trees, anything that will catch the equipment should it derail.  Plexi is the next best solution.  I use a little or both, neither look as good as Jim's.

I would not use superelevation.  It will permit a loco to pull a long train off the tracks, to the inside of the curve.  I prefer raised scenery along the edge or, if all else fails, a piece of masonite or lucite screwed to the side of the table.

I plan on putting those short tilted telegraph lines on the edge.  Kinda like this:

I will stick with my nails set in holes drilled in the Homosote. I have about 1 1/4" between the edge of the outer rail and the edge of the layout and I need this for overhang plus I want easy access to the track. Plus, to be able to see the track. I looked at the other options and the nails were quick and easy. Plus, you don't even notice them. I just got done running trains for an hour and you had to look for the nails to notice them. I could make them look like fence posts but too lazy.

A little piece of Plexiglass does wonders for our modular display....

Peter

One of my big fears for sure.....

Where my track comes close to the edge I am installing some Plexiglas a few inches high. It will be attached with screws that can be removed quickly for work or photos. 

 Jim Policastro's design looks fantastic but for a nice clean look the plexiglass would look good as well.

The three phots below show I like to live dangerously.  I have about fifty-five feet of track within an inch or two of the layout edge: 40 inches to the floor. 

I have a similar plexi-glas barrier to that pictured by Putnam division, except mine has very thin support posts every foot or so.  I install this when the grandkids are going to be here or I expect lots of kids as guests.  

Otherwise I leave it off.  Going on nearly ten years now, I run without my barriers in place most of the time.  I have had one loco tumble off onto the floor and three rolling stock in about 10,000 hours in those ten years,m and three rolling stock fell.  Allwere damaged by repairable with effort and a wait for parts.     That is an "accident rate" I can tolerate: I don't like the look of a barrier, even transparent.

They could have used your suggestions here:

http://www.cnn.com/videos/us/2...y-p-long-bridge.wgno

A little piece of Plexiglass does wonders for our modular display....

Peter:

What are you using for the vertical joiners between sections of the plexiglass?  They are nearly invisible and look very neat and tidy.  Is this something you can buy online or at a Lowes/Home Depot?  Are they strong enough to support people who put their hands on the plexiglass?

Thanks.

Steven J. Serenska

Those 3 photos be missing Lee.

Steve wrote:

Peter:

What are you using for the vertical joiners between sections of the plexiglass?  They are nearly invisible and look very neat and tidy.  Is this something you can buy online or at a Lowes/Home Depot?  Are they strong enough to support people who put their hands on the plexiglass?

ANSWERS:

1. Nothing.....each 48" piece is independent and screwed solely to the module.

2. We ask people not to lean on them.

3. They are a there to give a minimal deterence to little hands.

4. I'm not sure where we got the Plexiglass. It was either Lowe's or Home Depot.

Peter

This pic shows a home-made "guardrail" at the front edge of a temporary layout, made of heavy-gauge wire. It's effective, and the appearance is fairly unobstrusive.

The horizontal part is covered with black tape so it shouldn't scratch any errant trains. The vertical ends are threaded for attaching it to the table.

Some more ideas here. 

Had by B&O 0-6-0 launch off my elevated loop. 

Thankfully the damage wasn't as bad as originally thought but it still isn't pretty. While putting my layout back together from table rebuilding, I've opted to remove the elevated loop. I'm making a few minor changes so I'll be able to have 3 loops on the table top. 

I'll still have an elevated track but it will just be a simple point to point for my bump and go trolley. I'd rather have that $70 trolley launch off the elevated track vs a $500 locomotive