Problems with Lionel #103-100 Reverse Unit - FIXED!

Yes the 103 takes AC and rectifies it to DC, so no additional bridge is required.  There are 2 wire that come off the board (Usually blue and white) that go to a switch for locking the reverse unit.  Do you still have these wires in place with a switch?  If so, flip the switch and see if it works.   G

Couple of thoughts. There is a white and blue wires from the on-off switch need to be disconnected to operate F-N-R. If not it will operate in one direction only, or not at all. (locked in neutral). I don't know if that is the best choice, though. How are you going to by-pass the neutral position so it will start in the opposite direction?New reverse boards are only 15.00 if damaged. If I was doing this project, I would see if Atlas has a board they would sell from there industrial trolley. In one mode, it by-passes the neutral position. 

Thanks for the responses guys.

I did snip the blue and white wires close to the board so they are disconnected. ??? So the #103 unit not working is still a mystery.

My best guess is I killed some component by feeding DC current into it...
Will get a couple new #103 boards but hate to keep up the routine of problem diagnosis via parts replacement.

I have a Pocono Mountain Lines auto reverse unit which I think makes a standard e-unit cycle through the phases of F-N-R, i.e. cycling on/off twice to reverse. I was about to test it when the #103 unit failed.

I tested both #103 units with a transformer and multimeter.

Both units inspected under a magnifying glass and show no short across reverse lockout pads. ???

First unit is dead. No power goes though it. Most likely killed by drawing over 5 amps using the old open frame motor. Or stuck in neutral...

Second unit converts AC to DC but does not cycle thru F/N/R sequence when power is cycled on/off. Power stays on in one direction.

Guess I'll get a few more #103 units and try again.

Bert

Well, both #103 units worked at one point or another with the blue and white wires disconnected, i.e snipped short.

What I find confusing is why the second #103 unit acts like it is locked in forward. Don't know what happened during rewiring... But its not dead just stuck in forward. ???

Can't hurt at this point so I'll try hooking the blue & white together and see what that does.

Bert

I repaired plenty of these 103 units, the components are readily available.

 

When you say it is locked in forward, does it cycle Fwd-Fwd-Fwd, or Fwd-off-off-off-Fwd?  If truely Fwd all the time, then the microchip has failed, (Wires not connected should allow the e-unit to cycle) or the fwd transistors bank (TIP 31 and 32 have shorted).

 

If you cooked one of these via over current, you should see the damage on the 4 transistors that control direction (TIPS 31 and 32), or a burned trace on the board.  If your volt meter has a diode setting you can test the diodes looking for opens or shorts, and test the TIP trasistors for open or shorts.  G

FYI: The working #103 unit stays in forward. That's all it does no matter how many times I cycle on/off.

I've inspected them both and don't see any visible damage. ???

Since I'm not really an electronics guy I went ahead and ordered two more units to play with.

The good thing is that they're pretty cheap.

Got a new #103 reverse board and it works fine.
White and blue wires disconnected...

Will post pics and video when I get the whole trolley setup operational.

Bert

So I got some new #103 boards. Hooked one up cleanly...
The motor unit runs and goes forward/neutral/reverse. However, the motor unit speed does not change with voltage input, there is a motor humming sound while in neutral (and sometimes a little motion) plus eventually the #103 boards starts to smoke. ???

Went trough the wiring. Redid a few parts to make sure there were no shorts. Unit runs without smoking now but still does not change speed with voltage change.

Did I fry yet ANOTHER board? These #103 boards seem very very fragile.

Bert

Sounds like you cooked another board.

 

Do this test, take a bare motor and just wire the reverse board to the motor and the transformer on the bench.  See if you can run the motor in each direction.

 

I've abused these pretty bad and never killed one, so I think you have some kind of short there.

Mr. N,

 When these boards go out, it is usually the motor that takes them out. My guess is the motor is defective and needs replacing. Thats why the boards keep frying on you.

Most of the time the motor is the problem with -103's going south. Also do you have it wired as pictured on page 12 of the following

 

http://www.lionel.com/media/su...ent21/21Complete.pdf

 

Bill

OK. Realized a few things...

Hooked up a new board and it works.
Wired it straight up with no joints or anything. Tried to protect the board as much as possible. Does run. F/N/R action. So far so good.

I've come to realize what my two big problems were.
First, eyesight. Being older my closeup vision ain't what it used to be so I think I was missing some details. This time I used a magnifier and made sure everything was clean with no loose small wire strands, etc.
Second, I am installing the motor and e-unit into a tin trolley body. I thought I had things insulated but I must have missed something (see above).
Plus, I installed an interior light and I think that is where the short occurred. Will only use the light if I can be sure it is insulated.

So now I have a working motor and e-unit combo and need to get it in the tin trolley body without shorting things out.

I find it both interesting and frustrating that a short will damage but not kill a #103 unit. Now I know.

Thanks for the responses.

Bert

Finally have the trolley all together and running properly.

 

Thanks to all who repsonded with suggestions.

 

Bert

 

 

Looks like the light got sorted out as well.