PRR Panhandle 2.0

@BillYo414 posted:

Sounds like progress to me. That's pretty cool to have a legit working signal. I never got that far on my last layout but it's on the wishlist this time around.

I have a question about your backdrop. I have decided NOT to build a coke plant. I want to represent one with a backdrop. Did you have to provide the photo for the back drop? Or did they have stock stuff on hand?

Thank you, there are a number of diagrams available from vendors such as Z-Stuff for making signals work.

Regarding my backdrop, I provided the photo of the blast furnaces.  Those are actually Weirton's blast furnaces, circa 2010.  I am not sure what the backdrop vendors have on hand.  I do recall that Scenic Express used to sell a coke plant backdrop, but it's a bit undersized.  You should check that out.  I would also recommend that you:

• Contact the various backdrop vendors (Railroadbackdrops.com) to see if they have any stock photos
• Talk to the steel-related historical societies; they might have photo archives or can point you to some
• Get on the Steel Mill modeling Facebook page and make such an inquiry
• Do a general internet search for coke plant photos

Hope that helps,

George

@PRR8976 posted:

George,

  That is one fine looking PRR signal bridge... A+ on your work.

Tom

Tom, I can't claim much credit for that.  It's an MTH product (very nice one, too).  The only thing I managed to do was turn the second from rightmost head 180 degrees.  It now faces the viewer.  But the circuit design I was given makes that unnecessary.

George

Updated 10/10/2020:

In the spirit of "measure twice, cut once" and planning ahead, today I:

• Did a re-check of the length and path of Switch Bus #1 (Western DZ-2001 Data Wire Driver).  I've run about 25' of it.  I'm going to start hooking up signals and switches.
• Ordered 200 Scotchlok 905 "suitcase" connectors.  These will connect the Switch Bus to DZ-2500 switch machines, signals, and crossing gates.  Each switch needs 3; signals and crossing gates take 2 each.  I've got about 30 on hand at the moment.
• Cleaned up my wiring diagrams (added mounting hardware quantities) for Switches w/ pushbuttons (no signals) and MTH Signal bridges (with simple block occupancy circuits).  These are going to be used in the near future.
• Flemish bond brick pattern styrene sheets from The N Scale Architect for the Steubenville station arrived yesterday.

More when I know it. 

George

Updated 10/13/2020:

• Made and tested some adjustments to the circuitry feeding the MTH signal head (3 inputs).  The test circuit works fine and we are getting ready to install the components & signal bridge on the layout soon.
• At the suggestion of a friend, I painted the bottom supports of the MTH signal bridge a concrete color.  The land around the bridge installation will be built up to hide the large boxes housing the boards.
• Ran and connected the Western Switch Bus (Switch Bus #1) to its power supply (K-Line PowerChief 120F 15VAC tap).  Voltmeter shows 15.3 VAC at Switch No. 40 on the C&P_River Route.
• Connected the Western Switch Bus to Switch No. 40 and tested it.  Switch responds correctly under TMCC.
• Currently fighting some sort of Microsoft software licensing bug.  Woke up today to find that software that I bought and paid for years ago is telling me that my "trial period" has ended.    WTF? 

More when I know it. 

George

George, You are making progress, even though there wouldn't much visible to show your efforts.  It seems there is always something wacky about some kind or other of software.

@Mark Boyce posted:

George, You are making progress, even though there wouldn't much visible to show your efforts.  It seems there is always something wacky about some kind or other of software.

Hey Mark!

Yes, we continue to make progress despite our best efforts! 

Tonight I got the signal bridge installed (holes drilled for wires, bridge screwed to the benchwork) on the layout.  Nothing's connected yet.  I hope to get to that tomorrow, but I do have school to teach.  We'll see.  Still it is good to get something done.  I don't know why, but somehow I expected this to be going much more quickly.  Shows how much I underestimated the effort.

I got the software licensing bug resolved, but I don't know exactly why or how.  I suspect visiting the Microsoft store and re-installing my product key did the trick.  But that one was a new one on me.  Of course, these days Microsoft is in the subscription software business and I'm running Windows 10, so the margin for this type of licensing error is probably greater than for previous O/S versions.

George

I have an issue with Microsoft too.  It keeps telling me I need to log in, but I don’t know why.  Everything works.  When I login, it  lets me pick a new password, but then keeps telling me to log in.  I don’t know why, but I don’t care anymore, Windows 10 and Office 365 work.

@Mark Boyce posted:

I have an issue with Microsoft too.  It keeps telling me I need to log in, but I don’t know why.  Everything works.  When I login, it  lets me pick a new password, but then keeps telling me to log in.  I don’t know why, but I don’t care anymore, Windows 10 and Office 365 work.

I think I can top that one.  This morning I woke up to a very slow Windows 7 system! 

And the most recent e-mail in my inbox was dated 8/2/2020? 

WUT?  How was this possible?      

Back before the school year started I upgraded the computer (new solid-state drive, doubled the memory, Windows 10).  Then it hit me, the boot sequence must have gotten scrambled.  Fixed it and we're back from The Twilight Zone. 

Sheesh, what a morning.

George

Updated 10/18/2020:

Hit a slight wiring stumbling block today.  I tried the gel-filled 3-wire connectors that arrived yesterday.  They don't seem to pass the current along.  I've got 15.3 VAC at the transformer, 15.3 VAC at the end of the switch bus, and no lights at the DZ-2500.  The connector is supposed to accept 19-26 AWG wire, unstripped.  I had to strip the 20 AWG feeders from the switch bus.  Crimping 3 wires in this connector is also a bit of a challenge, although I would gladly put up with that if it worked.  From the back, the 3 wires appear to be deep enough in the connector to be making contact, but no joy.

UPDATE!!  I think this is what's going on.  I've got 3 things wired together - a power source (15VAC), a DZ2500 switch machine, and a DZ-1008 relay.  If the relay isn't activated in any way (only Red & Black wires connected), is it possible that IT is inhibiting power to the switch machine????

Nope.  It was either a bad crimp (don't believe that) or the connector failed.

I dunno.           

More when (if) I know it. 

George

George, I have never had any trouble with the Scotch-lock connectors my dad used years ago.  They look similar, but not the same as these.  As long as the colored button is down flush with the clear plastic, it is supposed to be a good crimp.  I have not purchased any like these however.  If the crimp is good, then the connector must be bad.  They don't make 'em like the used to.

Updated 10/18/2020 (PM):

The results for the IDC Buttsplice 3-wire gel-filled connector and the IDC Buttsplice 2-wire gel-filled connector were less than satisfactory.  I performed 4 crimps with the 3-wire version.  In all cases:

• The 3-wire version is rated to take 19-26 AWG wire and be self-stripping.  I found it difficult to get 20 AWG wire into the connector;  it would not go deep enough without stripping off the insulation myself.
• This was also true of the 2-wire version.
• In all cases, I failed to get a good connection.  In a couple of cases, the cap did not push down all the way.

These are not worth the trouble.  I have lodged a complaint with the company and asked for a refund.

I am hoping that the Posi-Locks prove much easier and reliable.  They're due to arrive sometime this week.

George

Well I won’t be buying any of those.  I hope the next ones work

Updated 10/23/2020:

Bunch of things have taken place over the past few days:

• My shipment of GarGraves rigid track (WT101-37) arrived yesterday.
• My shipment of 22 AWG wire for use with Z-Stuff switches, relays, and signals arrived today.
• And the big deal?  Completion of the circuit that protects the mainline near the Steubenville PRR station.  The circuit takes input from Switch #41 (the Passenger siding), Switch #42 (the engine pocket), and the mainline just in front of the station platform.  If either of the switches is thrown against the mainline or if the mainline is occupied, the MTH signal just east of the station will indicate STOP.  The full story can be found in this post on the Electrical Forum: 

https://ogrforum.com/...puts-to-drive-signal

More when I know it. 

George

You saw my comment last evening on the protection circuit.  With all the track and wire, it sounds like you can move forward with more construction.

@Mark Boyce posted:

You saw my comment last evening on the protection circuit.  With all the track and wire, it sounds like you can move forward with more construction.

Yes, I did, thanks!  That is the plan, once I tidy up my notes.  I'm also organizing the wiring stuff into 3 bins:

• Track Wiring - zip ties w/ mounting holes, 12 gauge red and black wire, identification plates, smaller color coordinated zip ties for power districts, 567 Scotchlok suitcase connectors, and related hardware.
• Accessory Bus Wiring - zip ties w/ mounting holes, 16 gauge zipcord, 20 gauge wiring (black, red, yellow, blue, white), identification plates, 905 Scotchlok suitcase connectors, and related hardware.
• TMCC Switch & Signal Wiring - 22 gauge wire (black, red, white, blue, green), Euro-style terminal blocks (or Posi-Lock connectors if they work out), and related hardware.

Immediate tasks are checking the phasing of all transformers (Last night I only did the 2 necessary to make the circuit work) and making a jumper for all the commons.

George

That sounds like a good organizational plan.  With a layout like yours, you definitely need a plan and follow through to completion.  I'm sure you will have everything documented well.

Updated 10/25/2020:

Two steps forward, one step back.    A careful check of the transformers for phasing yields:

• Group 1:  K-Line PowerChiefs 1, 2, 3, PowerHouse 135 (District 1), PowerHouse 135 (District 6), PowerHouse 180 (District 7) and PowerHouse 180 (District 8) are all in phase with each other.
• Group 2:  PowerHouse 180s for Districts 2, 3, 4, 5 are in phase with eachother and out of phase with Group 1.

I am looking at strategies for putting them all in phase, probably by addressing Group 2.

More when I know it. 

George

Rather than post it here, I sent an email with a suggestion for getting group 2 in phase with group 1.

Yesterday was a hard day.  Samantha had to be put down; she was in a great deal of pain.  The vet had seen her less than a month ago and figures it was a fast-moving cancer of some sort.  Samantha was extremely curious and liked wandering around the basement "investigating" various things.  Like her sister Pumpkin, she was a member of the family and will be greatly missed.

George

I'm sorry Samantha had to be put down!

I'm very sorry to hear about Samantha George.

Thanks guys!  It was for the best.  She was in a lot of pain and there really wasn't anything that could be done to make her better.  We buried her next to Pumpkin.

George

Sorry to hear that George.

Updated 10/31/2020:

All transformers are now phased and operational!

To do that, I made my own power cord (with prongs reversed) and inverted one power strip.  All the out-of-phase transformers (4 PowerHouse 180s) were plugged into it.  I found the plugs (male and female) at Lowe's and used 14 AWG wire.

The toughest thing about this task (for me) is wrapping the wire around the posts.  I have trouble with that, so I used ring connectors.  Of course, that means the yellow plugs won't go fit into their orange housings.  So I got them as close as possible and then wrapped them with electrical tape.  That way we have no exposed wires.

I plugged in all the transformers, tested for phasing, and then put child-proof plugs in the remaining outlets in the inverted power strip.  That way no child (like me) will inadvertently plug some other device into this "special" power strip.

More when I know it. 

George

George, That is a smart way to do it.  I always have trouble wrapping wire around screws too!  I use round lugs everywhere also.  They can be a pain if on a terminal block if you are going to remove the wire every so often, but worth it to keep the wire connected.  When I worked at the power company we were not allowed to use spade lugs, only round.  I need child proof things at my home also.  You never know when a 64-year old child will do something dumb!!

Updated 11/02/2020:

Thanks Mark! 

Yesterday, I was laying out the eastern approach tracks to the bridge - just test fitting them.  I wanted to insert the track pins, check the track alignment, and mark the roadbed and track for final placement.   Here's what it looks like westbound (towards the bridge).

As can be seen below, the track centers are 4 5/8" apart. 

However, when they come off the bridge tracks will narrow to 3.75" apart, center-rail to center-rail.

We can see the narrowing when we look eastward. 

In fact, what begins as two parallel straight sections of track on the bridge become very slight curves as they move further into West Virginia. 

To check the alignment of the track bed and track, I needed to climb up onto the layout in the vicinity of the triangular-shaped access hatch (just beyond the PRR signal bridge in the photo above).  As I stepped onto the benchtop to the right of the hatch, I heard a disturbing creak and crack.  Before my entire weight went onto that spot, I stopped. 

After examining the area and finding no visible cracks (phew!), I decided to reinforce the rim of the access hatch.  I added 2"x2" boards so as to support the edges of the access hatch and strengthen the benchwork around it.  These photos were taken below the top of the benchwork.

On the top, I counter-sunk all holes and used 1 5/8" drywall screws to fasten down the plywood top.  2" screws were used to hold the braces edge-wise.

Safe to walk on now!  I will continue my inspection and track alignment later today.

More when I know it. 

George

That's good George. It's never fun stepping on to something and hearing the lovely cracking sounds. When me and my siblings were kids, we'd always be going where we weren't supposed to be. In old buildings, on old roofs, you name it. Cracking would almost certainly be heard among all listed activities, not sure how we survived.

It's good to see the approach, can't wait to see things further along. Scenery looks great against the wall.

George,

   Looking good and you are making good progress. Nice backdrop!

   I was reading an older post and saw your cat Samantha passed away recently. Sorry to hear that. Our dog passed away in March, too.

Tom

George, the approach to the bridge is looking good.  That is good you got it reinforced before you broke something.  I wasn't concerned about a broken layout, but a broken George!! 

That scenery is killer! Love to see the progress.

Thanks guys!!!

Dave:  I'm pretty happy with the scenery as well.

Tom:  In many ways, the backdrop was one of the best decisions I ever made.  It's really the star of the show.

Mark:  Thanks for your concern, but I won't get hurt if I land on my head. 

Billy:  Thank you!

George

  That's what I always said when I worked at the power company; my head was harder than the hard hat!! 

Updated 11/04/2020:

Made a bit of progress today, despite having to teach:

• Programmed Switch #36 for TMCC control on the test bench.
• Revised the track plan to include the positions of insulated rail pins and wires and the locations of curves and Switch #36 relative to the Weirton Steel divider (12' to the east).
• Positioned some of the above components on the benchwork in their approximate locations.
• Connected power/ground feeder wire pairs to their respective Eastbound and Westbound buses.
• Tested installed tracks with 18" K-Line PRR Spirit of St. Louis passenger cars (our 1:48 travelers deserve smooth rides!).

Photos below:

More when I know it. 

George

Updated 11/05/2020:

I like and use Vinylbed for the layout.  It's a good sound deadening product, has beveled edges, and is relatively easy to install.  But I'm not a fan of the switch pads which are simply long rectangles.  I dislike cutting the material (it's tough to get a decent-looking reproducable bevel).

Today, I was installing Switch #36 and hit upon a workaround.  I am planning to ballast all the track (except the Staging Area), so this seems like a decent fix.  I have a scrap piece that's been cut at an angle.

It fits under the switch pretty nicely.  Since I plan to ballast the track, I only need to worry about the outside edges of the Vinylbed adding some shape.  That little gap at the center of the photo below will be addressed with another small scrap piece.

And the Vinylbed will be adjusted and appropriately curved to pass under the signal bridge.

Additional flat areas will be elevated with styrofoam insulation.

I may have to use the switch pads elsewhere, but at least for this instance this will work.

More when I know it. 

George

I Never tried the vinyl roadbed.  I went with my old standby in HO and N; cork.  I thought I would have trouble cutting vinyl or foam roadbed, and here it ended up my O cork looks worse than when I used it years ago in smaller scales.  Oh well, it is just like my messy looking carpentry, it will be covered with ballast and the carpentry with scenic materials, so it doesn't matter.

@Mark Boyce posted:

I Never tried the vinyl roadbed.  I went with my old standby in HO and N; cork.  I thought I would have trouble cutting vinyl or foam roadbed, and here it ended up my O cork looks worse than when I used it years ago in smaller scales.  Oh well, it is just like my messy looking carpentry, it will be covered with ballast and the carpentry with scenic materials, so it doesn't matter.

My buddy Price, whose bench work methods I copied, had cork on his old layout.  Maybe it was the room, but I thought it was particularly noisy.  He has since torn down his layout and moved;  I am designing his new one.  He is going to try Vinylbed and see if he likes it.

Don't worry about how your O cork looks, especially if you're going to apply ballast.  You know what they say:  "Great modelers know how to hide their mistakes!" 

George

Speaking of mistakes , I made one yesterday that I had to correct today.

Before - note the kink in the rightmost track just south of the Stone Arch (below the black area).  That will never do.  I mistakenly used a piece of GarGraves rigid WT101-37 instead of flex track.  It was only when I climbed up on the layout that I realized what I'd done.

After - Much better, I think.  Someone gave me a great tip - it is possible to bend GarGraves flex track to nearly any radius by curving it around a water heater tank!  It really works!  And you can vary the amount of curve by holding the track diagonally.

I'll adjust the end towards the switch an ooch more to the right, but I think it's a substantial improvement. 

I want to have a smooth stretch of track when I highball trains across the bridge! 

OK, back to work! 

George

@G3750 posted:

After - Much better, I think.  Someone gave me a great tip - it is possible to bend GarGraves flex track to nearly any radius by curving it around a water heater tank!  It really works!  And you can vary the amount of curve by holding the track diagonally.

Just...walk up to the tank and press the track against it till you get what you want?

@BillYo414 posted:

Just...walk up to the tank and press the track against it till you get what you want?

Yep!  I didn't believe it at first either.  But it really, really works!!!!

George

@G3750 posted:

Yep!  I didn't believe it at first either.  But it really, really works!!!!

George

Well alright haha I wouldn't have expect that. But I'll go with it when my time comes. Your progress looks great!