PS-1 Question

I had very poor luck running PS/1 with the Z750 & controller, also the MTH IR remote.  So, unless the Z-1000 controller is radically different than the Z750 controller, I'd have to say no.

 My advise is to stay clear of Z-1000 transformers for operating QSI or PS1 locomotives

I'll add stay away from the lionel cw80{another chopped wave} - I had issues with both my proto1s trying to use that...but maybe that's me.  My old ZW works just fine with them.

rdg fan,

   My recommendation for running P1 engines is to invest in a old VW, KW or ZW Lionel transformer, and use 10 Amp Breakers to safe guard your P1 engine.  Put a BCR in your P1 engine, and get rid of the battery.  I would stay away from the Z-1000 until you invest in some P2 engines & DCS.   Even then, I always recommend a DCS with hand held remote control, and 10 Amp breakers between the old VW, KW or ZW transformer and the DCS TIU.  Remember although the P1 engine is not a fully DCS controlled engine, P1 engines can be contolled thru the TR function of the DCS hand held remote control.  Some P1 engines are very nice, and I kept mine around for several years, then traded them on P2 engines which are fully controlled by the DCS.  IMO the Z-750 should be considered a beginners type transformer and

not used at all with P1 engines. 

PCRR/Dave 

I respect the opinions already stated - these guys know this stuff.

I will share this:  I used a Z-750 for a period of time with my PS-1 engines (had 3) and they worked just fine.  No issues at all.  I have graduated to a Z-4000.  Very pleased with it.

As suggested above, I installed a BCR for each - that is a must (ensures that when the power is shut off that there is enough power for the engine to go through the shut down sequence via the computer board, otherwise it could be a trip to a train shop to unscramble).

Hope that helps.

Well I'll put my 2 cents in...

I have 2 ps1 engines. 3 ps2 engines and 3 tmcc engines.

Of course some PW Lionel.

I use Z-1000 and have never had an issue....

( Oh I run conventional only )

..

.

Stoshu,

   P1 engines are really a form of Conventional and your Z-1000 will run them

fairly well, however the VW, KW and ZW will run them better with zero problems.

Bob,

   I was not going to go into the CW-80, which I do not recommend for running any P1 engines at all, IMO it's a throw away transformer, that comes with RTR train sets, and I have had nothing but problems with them thru the years, even running simple bumper street car lines.   The new CW-80's are much better than the older ones, however I still want a much higher quality, more powerful transformer.

PCRR/Dave

Some vintages of PS-1 are more fussy than others.

IMHO, the best way to run a PS-1 engine is with a TPC 300 or TPC 400. They have firmware built in to allow easy access to the various feature settings and they have a pure sine wave start setting.

Pressing AUX1-9 gives full voltage at a pure sine wave, and allows all vintages of PS-1 to boot up properly. Pressing AUX1-8 gives 30% power (no longer sine wave) and pressing DIR gets you on your way. easy-peasy.

RoyBoy,

   Thanks for the education, I have never owned a TPC-300 or TPC-400, I will have to do a little reading on them.

PCRR/Dave

They also have a setting for getting to the various PS-1 features. You know how you have to move the throttle up and down 15 or 18 times to get to the chuff volume? On a TPC, pressing AUX1-5 does the same thing. Pressing the 5 button 15 or 18 times is a LOT easier than moving the throttle up and down 15 or 18 times. (I forgot if it was 15 or 18).

If you have any PS-2 engines, you can open the couplers just by pressing the F or R buttons.

I think they run much better on a pure sine wave transformer such as the z4000, and all postwar transformers. The ZW and KW are well worth the investment. The Z1000 is a great transformer for other engines but for PS1 you may have problems.

The breakers will not provide any protection for the engine or the electronics, they only protect the transformer and wiring.  The damage to the electronics is well under way or done by the time a breaker trips.  Voltage spikes and transients need to be clamped with the use of TVS diodes.

I have a Z-1000 on my test bench and have never had a problem when testing or running a customers PS-1 engine with it. I use it to test with as the breaker on it is the fastest tripping on any transformer. Slightest hint of a short and power is interrupted.

I echo what Paul has said with respect to the Z-1000.  Solid modern 100W transformer with bell and whistle buttons.  You can always run into a PS-1 or QSI board that is finicky.  The boards and components are 20 plus years old.  G

That I didn't know.  I bought the Z-750 that I had used, so it could have been an early one.  However, the MTH IR remote control lockon also wouldn't run PS/1 engines, and it wasn't just one engine.

I don't run conventional, so this isn't a big deal for me, but when I have stuff to test/fix, I use either the KW or the MRC transformer, real sine waves.

I have 2 versions of the Z-750 and the early one doesn't have a polarized plug and puts out 24 volts. The later one has a polarized plug and puts out 21 volts. But it is probably the controller that's at fault that chops the sine wave I would think.

The Z-4000 with the remote receiver runs PS1 engines great. You can use the old Z-4000 remote ( if you can find one ) or the DCS remote to run conventional and you don't even need the TIU as it varies the voltage at the transformer remotely.

BINGO!  I had the one that put out 24 volts, I was a bit surprised to see that much voltage from it.